Parkside Scroll Saw Mod

[donwatson]

Hi All,
I have been using the above saw for a little over a year now.
I recently noticed the cam action lever at the rear of the machine was not operating as efficiently as it once was and had a look.
The cam lever is pressed steel and the bottom was wearing away. It looks like an easy fix by purchasing a new cam lever but I wondered if there was anything better than buying a new lever every year.
I have been looking at the quick release levers on push bikes as a substitute and the local bike shop come up with a lever that I could possibly use (free). It looks as if I will need to split the frame to see what is inside (while I am in there I will look at fitting a foot pedal).
I will let you all know how I get on.

take care
Don W
Ps I have added a gratuitous picture of my blade storage :shock:

 

[Alexam]

Possibly like this video - www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxHRYPCJtzQ
Malcolm

 

[NazNomad]

Can you not simply screw it in a bit to compensate for that bit of wear?

 

[Claymore]

I have seen someone make a mod on this type of lever by using a large thin washer and cutting a chunk out of one side so you are left with a horseshoe shape and then slide it under the edge of the lever to take up and slackness, it might work with yours Don?.
The bicycle levers have been used on a few videos on youtube (will try and find one for ya) they use them on the rear tension so should sort yours out.
Cheers
Brian

 

[donwatson]

Thanks for the comments guys. The videos I must have seen before and they have stuck at the back of my memory. It looks as if I am on the right track. Now I just need to take the machine apart (hammer)

take care
Don W

 

[AES]

If it's any consolation at all donwatson, the Einhell machine I had before had a similar system but the over-centre nlever for tensioning was made of plastic (and a pretty rubbishy plastic too). I reckon that keeping with that "system" would have meant buying a new tensioning lever about once a month!!!

In that case I did a bit of "engineering butchery" (before I gave the saw away!!!), and replaced the plastic thingy with a bit of ali bicycle over-centre lever. It worked fine (and still is).

I don't know if that would work with your machine or not though (from the pic you posted, yours looks similar but not exactly the same as my Einhell).

HTH

AES

 

[donwatson]

Thanks AES,
It looks as if I have the general idea. Will need to see if I can make it work

 

[novocaine]

the cam centre on a bike is going to be a bit bigger so you'll need to make yourself a couple of inserts bit basically all you really need to do is knock the pin out of the old one and take the handle off, fit the bottom plate from the bike, fit the lever then replace the pin with an m5 nut and bolt.
you might need to drill out the bottom plate to fit over your shaft.

you need an external cam lever quick release, the axle can be unscrewed easy enough with a pair of pliers and a vice to clamp the head in.

no need to split the casing of the saw apart.

 

[AES]

There you go donwatson - along comes someone who's actually done the job on that saw ("he's not just a pretty face you know!")

AES

 

[donwatson]

I am afraid I have created a bit of confusion here.
My problem is the cam has worn and no longer has the cam action/movement it once had.
I can knock out the roll pin and replace the cam handle but I suspect the problem will occur again.
I will contact Sheppach today for a replacement as that is the name on the manual. I will let you know how I get on.

 

[NazNomad]

My problem is the cam has worn and no longer has the cam action/movement it once had.

... but does it still have ''some'' cam action?

As I initially said, does it not adjust by rotating the lever? Failing that, double-up the metal washer under the cam.

 

[donwatson]

Yes Naz there is still some action and it is usable by adjusting the lever.
I went on t' internet and tried Lidl, Sheppach and Parkside but have not found a source for a new cam handle. Any suggestions.
I am a bit worried about unscrewing the whole cam handle/ rod combination in case I can't get it back in without opening the machine up. Can the rod be screwed out/in without upsetting anything ?

 

[novocaine]

I'm afraid you missunderstand me too. perhaps we should stop all this misunderstanding. lol
heres a picture of a typically QR skewer with an external camlock.

the bit I've pointed an arrow at is the bottom plate. it has a HDPE piece in it for the cam to act on. that bit goes means you get a nice smooth cam action and no real wear, you might need to drill the hole a bit because it's normally only on a 4mm shaft.
then you put the other bit on the top and jobs a gooden.

but as naz said, turn it clockwise to tighten whats there and you'll most likely find it works again.

 

[donwatson]

I'm afraid I've misunderstood the misunderstanding
I was wondering if I could unscrew the existing cam rod to let me see what length it was and what thread. ?
If I could do that and screw it back in place without having to split the machine I could maybe fit this in it's place if the thread suited ?

 

[AES]

As said before Don, I don't know this particular machine, but if I may say so you seem to worrying un-necessarily about "splitting"the machine then not being able to put it back together again. My own approach has always been "if someone put this thing together then there's a good chance I can strip it, then re-assemble it OK" - and don't forget in the case of your machine, there's a strong chance the person who put your machine together was a partially educated Chinese coolie working for a handful of peanuts and a banana every week! (OK, but you know what I mean)!

By all means look VERY carefully at the bits and pieces BEFORE you start "attacking" it with tools, and if necessary make sketches and/or take pix. And before you start, fix yourself up with a few little cardboard boxes or something similar, marking them, and the parts, as you remove them one by one. Then put all the parts that make up the different subassemblies into separate (marked) boxes.

But your machine is not all that complex really, and provided you attack it slowly, with care and forethought, you (and the machine) won't come to much harm.

And as an aside, don't forget that the over-centre "cam" itself is just an ordinary circle - the only difference between it and a "normal" circle is where the "centre" pivot hole (which is not exactly in the centre of course) is located in relation to that outer "cam circle". The distance between the centre of the pivot hole and the outer circle of the cam is the movement dimension you're wanting to reproduce. (And if it's basically the same idea as my old Einhell, although that dimension is fixed in one way, it is also adjustable - by means of screwing the whole cam assembly up and down the threaded rod).

HTH, I'll keep out of this one now, 'cos as said, I don't really know your machine (though it looks to be a very similar - dreadful - arrangement to my Einhell).

Good luck, just give it a go, if a Chinese coolie couldn't break it you'll have to work really hard to break it)!

AES

 

[novocaine]

in short, it might but it probably wont wont work.
different thread I'd have thought. the skewer is m5x0.8 I'd suspect the thread in the saw to be m6x1.

most annoying.
you could always cut a slot in a penny washer and slip it under you current lever. or do away with it completely and fit a turny nob.

 

[donwatson]

Thanks again all,
I have decided to fit a turny knob. Seemples.
I was turning the cam lever anyway as I replaced blades (hammer)

 

[novocaine]

an excellent approach, and good use of technical terms.

 

[donwatson]

Finally got round to the shed today and tried to unscrew the cam lever/rod from the saw. It won't come out, it seems to jam hard after unscrewing a few turns.
I did find the WDS catalogue and they have a a couple of answers to my problem, a 6mm tapped cam lever and a 6mm tapped Hand Nut.
I can run a 6mm die down a short way on the existing rod and jam the lever or nut on top.
That should do the job ??

 

[novocaine]

only if the shaft takes the thread. I'd want at least 3 threads in contact.
wonder if it's got a c clip to stop you taking it off completely by mistake. ok, now is the time to open up the machine.

remember to unplug it.