Rhyolith":3rsj2i1f said:Well I am not convinced. What you merely makes me think its hard to do rather than impossible.Cheshirechappie":3rsj2i1f said:Rhyolith":3rsj2i1f said:Andy's post has made be confident that my original hypothesis of saw tensioning in panel saws being the same as in bow saws (stretching of the blade/cutting edge) is correct. I am not at all convinced that stiffness is even relevant to saw tensioing, I think its a seperate process or at least not the principle objective of saw tensioners.
Please answer these questions (especailly Ches.):
- Whats better a bow saw with a tensioned or un-tensioned blade?
- Is it possible, by mechanical means such as those in Andy's book, to expand to central area of the saw panel to manipulate the tension of the cutting edge in a panel saw?
The bow saw blade is placed under an external tension, so the 'tension' in the blade is only there if it's stretched in the bow-saw frame. It's not there if the blade is just lying freely on the bench - or if the blade is used without the frame. Handsaws and panel saws are used without any frame stretching them.
If the middle of a hand or panel saw blade is hammered to the point where the metal yields (see previous post - I'm not typing that lot again!), but the metal either side of it is not hammered, you get a bulge developing in the blade. That bulge can be removed by stretching the metal above and below it - the old saw smiths used to do that to get blades cockled in heat treatment flat again.
Unless more evidence comes to light, I think expanding the central area of the saw and thus streatching the blade is what tensioning is. If this is what it is then it will make a difference, as evidenced by bow saws.
Here's what disston said about saws that were "loose" (hard would be a good term, meaning a layman is not likely to chance into - say - finding some guy to just hammer around on a saw and then make a conclusion that you cant increase stiffness by manipulating the metal).
http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/factorytour.html (halfway down - this all occurs after a blade has been hardened, tempered and ground - as we were told earlier in this thread, all of this stuff is unnecessary)
The next step is that of "Smithing." in this the blades are flattened and made perfectly straight, all inequalities being taken out by the skillful hammering of the mechanics.
The blades are next "Ground" to gauge and to a taper so that the back will be thinner than the cutting edge. The back of the hand saw blade is ground to taper from the teeth to the back and from handle to point, the tooth-edge being of even thickness from end to end. A saw not ground to proper taper cannot be ranked as a high-class tool.
Taper Grinding
Grinding
After being ground they are returned to the smithers for "Looking-over" and preparing for next operation.
Now follows "Tensioning." In this the blades are hammered so that they shall not be too "fast" or too "loose;'' but shall possess the proper tension, spring or character. If the blade is what is termed "fast" the metal is too long on the edge and needs expanding through the centre, or, if too "loose" the metal must be stretched on the edge. A saw not properly tensioned will run out of its course, in other words it will not cut straight and true.