Options for phase conversion single to dual

[woodiedonald]

Chrips, both of those links you posted to ebay would work provided the first one is big enough for your motor, If you have a 1 hp motor which is 0.75 kilowatts or 750 watts so you need an inverter that size or bigger. If you have 1/2 horsepower that's approx 375 watts and I think there are a few .37 kilowatt inverters out there which would do.

Although the second inverter would work fine it is much bigger than needed, its rated for 3 horsepower, you only need 1 hp or 1/2 hp.

If you would prefer the single phase motor swap option, machinemart do cheap-ish single phase motors and axminster do cheap-ish DOL (direct on line) motor starters. If your motor is 1425rpm you will need a 4 pole motor and the starter should match the kilowatts rating of the motor. More specifically it should take the necessary amperage to start the motor. I think the machine mart site gives you what size starter you need.

I don't think it'd be best to take advice such as just buy it when you could have a hundred quid down the hole, I would recommend getting an electrician to get this properly sorted and figure out what you need to get.

Cheers
Donald

edit: right I just had a closer look at the first one, it should work. Its rated at 1hp so big enough.

also, most inverters only convert single to three phase, some of them have a transformer of some kind inside which gives you 400 volts 3 phase but they are expensive. To get your 200 volt 3 phase output inverter to drive your motor then the motor will need to be wired in Delta.

 

[wizard]

Woodiedonald the reason i said that one is because i know what i am talking about a 1 hp will go down to ½ hp but a 3 hp will not, also if you buy from them they will sort out any programming problems if want to reprogram it in any way.

 

[wizard]

One other thing test the motor before you hook it up to the inverter as a duff motor can blow it up also you must use the inverter as the only switch to run the motor, the switch on the drill must not be used.
To test a 3 phase motor first wire it to 240 then disconnect any load from the motor like drive belt, then put a live supply to one wire neutral to the other then another live wire to a capacitor then from the capacitor to the third wire, you may need to spin the motor shaft. Thick rubber gloves may be a good idea. As for an electrician not all of them are any good with 3 phase

 

[Chrips]

this will do just buy it
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1HP-Singl...ies_Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&hash=item58b102e4ac

It ain't for sale yet...

Thanks for the advice though with the switch n that (hammer) I don't really wanna start pulling that 10 wire junction apart, there's no contacts connecting to the motor without unmounting it too and I just can't be bothered, I got ceilings to paint.

 

[Chrips]

Right now, I'd like to know how my machine is wired, so that I can buy the inverter to most suit the current setup (i.e. an invertor which is 230 > 230 or 415? Many of the units I'm looking appear to put out 230 not 415. I have a dual voltage motor remember), and leave the easiest job for the sparky. I do have a cap, but I don't feel like using it anymore, an inverter is the way. I don't mind getting a bigger one if it'll output thew low voltages I need, there's plenty of old industry around these parts.

 

[beech1948]

Crips,
step one is to slightly open up the control box on your motor and take a picture or two.

Step 2 is to look inside the control box for a diagram which shows terminal connections in your motor for 415v and 230 v and set to 230v if not already. Both 415 and 230v are 3phase

Step 3 is to buy the VFD inverter and wire up

Step 4 is to test and enjoy

 

[Chrips]

Crips,
step one is to slightly open up the control box on your motor and take a picture or two.

Step 2 is to look inside the control box for a diagram which shows terminal connections in your motor for 415v and 230 v and set to 230v if not already. Both 415 and 230v are 3phase

Step 3 is to buy the VFD inverter and wire up

Step 4 is to test and enjoy

The photo of the junction is in the first page of this topic mate, don't wanna double post:

topic81358.html

Can you help me work out what is what? 1L1, 3L2 and 5L3 are the input leads (all red). There are 3 more input, 2 of 'em again red and cut shorter - switch leads - and then earth.

 

[beech1948]

Chrips,

First I apologise as I thought that the picture of the contactor was external to the motor and fixed on the machine frame somewhere. Thus the advise to seek a diagram inside the motor controls box on top of the motor.

I have spent about an hour searching for an AEG LS07 10-E manual but come up with nothing except that the 10-E indicates that the controller is 415v only based on the spec sheets I sent earlier but other than the stuff I sent earlier from the AEG web site I have no other way to check.

I'll see if I can find a manual for the LS07.

If not then a good 3phase sparks will be needed.

 

[beech1948]

Chrips,

First I apologise as I thought that the picture of the contactor was external to the motor and fixed on the machine frame somewhere. Thus the advise to seek a diagram inside the motor controls box on top of the motor.

I have spent about an hour searching for an AEG LS07 10-E manual but come up with nothing except that the 10-E indicates that the controller is 415v only based on the spec sheets I sent earlier but other than the stuff I sent earlier from the AEG web site I have no other way to check.

Confusingly other LS07 variants exist such as a 230v only model however the -E suffix means 415v.

I'll see if I can find a manual for the LS07.

If not then a good 3phase sparks will be needed.

 

[beech1948]

Chrips,

See below link and look at page 75 for LS07.10-E. Look to main blue colour table LOWER RIGHT and see the details of the 10-E meaning i.e 440v only at 50 Hz.

http://www.eecontrols.com/documents/Pages71-80.pdf

To run your motor on 230 3ph it would seem you need a different contactor. You could replace with a 230v LS07.10-C

See also the VERY LOWER RIGHT where a white box details the connections for the 10-E. I understand that this is only a little help as you would need to trace with a multimeter to determine continuity of connections. No separate wiring diagram is given for 230v so would seem to be the same as 440/415 volt.

Then if you change contactor to 230v, keep wiring the same then add an inverter/VFD you should be good to go.

A check would be to call a UK stockist, throw yourself on the mercy of the tech team and ask advice.

I can not find a manual on the internet.

 

[beech1948]

Chrips,

These people sell current LS07.

http://www.plccenter.co.uk/en-GB/Buy/EEC AEG/LS0710E?redirect=true

 

[beech1948]

Chrips,

These people sell current LS07 and may provide technical info.

http://www.plccenter.co.uk/en-GB/Buy/EEC AEG/LS0710E?redirect=true

I have emailed GE who own AEG in both germany and Uk to ask for a manual. I'll copy you on it if they reply.

So pending more info that it for my efforts.

 

[Chrips]

I found the manual in question, thanks to your helpful prompt beech, cheers! It has switch configuartions per my model 10E:

http://www.eecontrols.com/documents/Pages71-80.pdf

 

[Chrips]

Chrips,

See below link and look at page 75 for LS07.10-E. Look to main blue colour table LOWER RIGHT and see the details of the 10-E meaning i.e 440v only at 50 Hz.

http://www.eecontrols.com/documents/Pages71-80.pdf

To run your motor on 230 3ph it would seem you need a different contactor. You could replace with a 230v LS07.10-C

See also the VERY LOWER RIGHT where a white box details the connections for the 10-E. I understand that this is only a little help as you would need to trace with a multimeter to determine continuity of connections. No separate wiring diagram is given for 230v so would seem to be the same as 440/415 volt.

Then if you change contactor to 230v, keep wiring the same then add an inverter/VFD you should be good to go.

A check would be to call a UK stockist, throw yourself on the mercy of the tech team and ask advice.

I can not find a manual on the internet.

Thanks so much for your work on this mate, I would have probably missed that. Anyway I've bought a 230V phase inverter, with speed control and what not. It's small enough to mount on the drill itself so it shouldn't be a problem just removing the relay and switch and wiring direct into the inverter. I hope...

 

[beech1948]

Chrips,

The AEG spec sheets say that a LS07.10-E is a 440v only device. Its on the spec sheet you referred to in your last mail.

You will need to check this I'm sure a 230v VFD won't work well with the LS07.10-E and it does not have removeable contactors

 

[Chrips]

I know yeah, I'll wire the motor direct to the VFD

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Do a search on these forums for some useful info on motors by 'ninefingers'. There is a whole raft of stuff on wiring 3 phase motors from star to delta (or mesh ) so you can run an inverter. I used his advice for my Elliott Progress and now run it from 240V and an inverter. It is great, and very similar to your Fobco. Getting a motor was a pain, since they are 5/8 shafted, so a new one was either metric shafted or twice the price for a 5/8 shaft for the same motor! The inverter was cheaper and makes the drill more versatile.

Mike.

Mod edit:- http://homepage.ntlworld.com/bob.minchin/Induction motors - Issue2.pdf

 

[Chrips]

Thanks Brains!

 

[Chrips]

Well I got it running okay with a nice 1HP VFD. My current mission is to work out optimal ramp up times for the drill. They're set at 10s by the VFD and I'm not sure how much faster I can get this without causing any issues. It's a bit slow for a pillar drill really no?