Not an Infill

[tobytools]

It looks a bit like a plane by Bayfield

Just under half way down
https://www.thebestthings.com/infill.htm

Amazing richard
10/10

How much would one of those cost a man who can't make planes ?

TT

 

[Richard T]

Thanks Toby,

I had not heard of Bayfield before,... for some reason the big picture won't work for me.

When it is finished it will cost a man who can't make planes just as much as a man who can.

 

[Richard T]

I hardened the iron.

Apologies in advance for the awful photography but I had a lot on my mind.

Kindling the forge and getting the iron used to the idea of what is about to happen to it.



Much pumping later and a good working heat. The colour in this blurred photo is also way off. I do not have a pink forge.



We had gone out and bought 3ltr of Rapeseed oil and I had washed out, cut down and rolled the edges of a 5ltr motor oil can.



I heated a bit of steel up to a dull red (again, picture miles out) and I let it cool to black before stirring the oil with it.



I made the fire the right shape and size and put the iron on top flat side down and heated slowly until the right temperature was evident by colour.



This .... was just coming up to a bright red and not what the camera seems to think was an accident in the fires of Mordor....



I quenched it very successfully (no time for a photo) and after cleaning the oil off it put it in the oven at gas mark 6 for an hour.
The trouble with heating on top of the coke is that when it gets to temperature it relaxes into the surface...



... and picks up a cokey imprint. Lovely pattern - **** to get flat. It took me the whole of Saturday evening - including Dr. Who - and I hadn't finished it. It's very close now though.



Something else that slipped my mind was the scale. Before I hardened it, the iron would not pass through the mouth. After hardening and the loss of thickness through scale, it is just about perfect and I won't need to file the mouth.



No matter how much procrastinating and worrying I do, there is always something to be forgotten or not thought about in the first place. Now to lap it, sneck it and grind the bevel ....

 

[marcros]

Richard,

Is the amount of scale predictable (to a professional)? Out of interest- I am never likely to have a go at this!

Mark

 

[Richard T]

Not really Mark - not accurately anyway. All you can be sure of is that when steel is heated to red hot or past it, there will be scale.
The only way to be sure in this case would be to finish all the irons first before assembling the plane. In this case though, it has turned out just right.

 

[vitto]

“Sorry about the doublet and hose”
Richard as the God of fire Vulcan

great job Richard, even the handle is very nice =D>

Ciao Vittorio

 

[pedder]

Hi Richard,

thank you very much for the documentation! Lot to learn. I wonder how exactly the holes need to be drilled. (Really german grammar, isn't it?).

I love the metal part of this plane (the flueing front is great!) and think you could refine the shapes of the wooden parts a bit. Just for the eyes not for the hands.

Cheers
Pedder

 

[Richard T]

Thanks Vittorio

I am only half Vulcan.

Thanks Pedder - which holes do you mean?

The next one will have a slightly thinner back handle and a less aggressive cut away under the front knob. The shape of the handle cannot change too much because of the way it is attached; ( bolts into the front of it and a mortise underneath).

 

[ac445ab]

Thank you for pics, Richard! Great job

I

I quenched it very successfully (no time for a photo) and after cleaning the oil off it put it in the oven at gas mark 6 for an hour.
The trouble with heating on top of the coke is that when it gets to temperature it relaxes into the surface...

Gas mark 6 for an hour :?: Are time and temperature critical at this step?

 

[Sheffield Tony]

Timing is critical in this, especially if you hardened it in engine oil and didn't clean it all off property - It must be done when your wife is out !

 

[Corneel]

Marvelous job Richard. But the real question of course, did it work? Did the iron become nice and hard?

 

[Richard T]

Hi Guiliano - yes, it's the tempering process. When the iron is hardened it is as hard and as brittle as glass and needs to be re heated to a light brown 'straw' colour to make it less brittle. With 01 steel this happens at 400f which can be (quite) accurately done on the top shelf of the oven at gas mark 6. I could have done it in the fire but there is such a large, hard area that 'soaking' for a long time at that temperature is much safer.

Vegetable oil is much more conducive to marital harmony Tony - you can pretend you're cooking. :shock:

Yes Corneel, it's hard. The file skates beautifully and all subsequent work is very hard work. I have snecked it and nearly got the edges to meet using my diamond plate. I'll post some pictures later.

 

[Richard T]

I had made a sneck earlier, waiting for the iron to be hardened.



The camera's batteries gave up at the riveting stage but were revived when back in the house.



Diamond plate work on the face



and on the bevel.



They will meet soon. I hope.

 

[AndyT]

Looking good!

(Not so sure about the carpet...;-))

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Looking good!

(Not so sure about the carpet...;-))

Agree - that's well on it's way to being a quite superb smoother.

(The carpet was a deep pile one until he passed the plane over it!)

 

[pedder]

Thanks Pedder - which holes do you mean?

Hi Peter, the holes for attaching the sole to the sides. I've seen thre men sweating a lot at a Infillworkshop in Summer while peening the dovetails. Much Power was needed. I could imagine drilling gives less stress to the body tahn peening. And I wonder if it dan be done on my cheapo drillstand.

Cheers
Pedder

 

[Richard T]

Hi Pedder,

I first drill all the holes through both of the sides clamped together as small pilot holes - about 1.5mm. Then I clamp each sole piece to one of the sides and spot through with the same 1.5mm drill. When it is all spotted, I drill out the holes in the sole and frog at 5mm for tapping about 10mm deep. The holes in the sides are opened up to 6mm for the 6mm rod to pass through.

The most important thing about the pillar drill used is its accuracy. The table needs to be square to the drill bit and the drill vice needs to hold each piece square too.

I countersank the outer sides of the holes to pein the rivet heads into at 60 degrees. I'm sure these could be just flared with a taper reamer though and would be less piening and just as strong.

Thanks Andy. Thanks CC. The deal is: when I sell a plane .... I buy a carpet. 8)

 

[Corneel]

Another point to watch for with your pillar drill is the table deflecting under the pressure. I have a quite solid looking one, but it's just Chinese rubbish, so it bends a bit out of square when I'm drilling. Of course you shouldn't lean hard on the drill, but you know how these things happen... So when it needs to be ultra precise I put an old car jack under the table for extra support.

 

[jimi43]

Superb work Richard!!

It's like a plane on steroids! I love super thick steel especially on the iron which is a work of art and has a sneck which is one of my most favourite designs of the old plane irons...normally only found on the mitres and little chariots.

On the tempering, I assume you raised the oven to gas mark 6 and then turned off and allowed to cool for that part? Did I miss something in the scan of your text?

I have a queue of soft irons waiting for the kiln...it's so much faffing about that I want to do it all in one sitting. I have a proper probe/thermometer now so I can get it accurately at 780-820 degs but I just quench in chip oil. Mr Cain says it's dangerous to quench in old motor oil because of petroleum impurities which could ignite and I have to say it's frightening enough in chip oil in a large vat!

I look forward to seeing how that mighty iron cuts...with the inertia of that much steel it should wipe the floor with even the most stubborn grain.

Keep up the superb work and I promise I will finish the grand Richard T panel soon....once the comets are gone! I have to say it's getting harder to get out in the cold these days!

Cheers mate

Jimi

 

[Richard T]

Blimey Jim - I thought you must have locked yourself in the observatory and that I'd have to make nothing less than a jointer to lure you out.
The sole is very slightly thicker than Ron Brese's but Karl's still look thicker to me.

I am still trying to meet the face and bevel on the iron. I must get a decent grinding wheel of a good diameter.

I preheated to gas mark 6, baked for an hour and took it out of the oven. This is a non - critical heat change; at school I was taught to quench here, as seen in Tony's axe making thread.

It was quite a relief that the only flame I got with the chip oil was coming off the gas from the bubbles and not the whole mass of it. It had only been pre warmed and was not hot. Maybe worth thinking about not doing too many in quick succession or it might well get too hot ... ?

I'm quite surprised that no one has mentioned that planes like this 'don't have snecks' or maybe they do? I've never seen one but I don't know why. I have seen lots of gorgeous, non adjuster planes that one would not dream of tapping with a mallet ... how to retract? Dunno. Still, it's the first iron and an experiment.

Back to grinding - and early onset Arthur Rightus...