If this is a regular or common occurance then get the condensate pipe altered, either use larger bore once it is outside or get it run internaly to the sink waste.
Not a Plumber so WTF is going on
- Thread starter Droogs
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
This looks like it is not a frozen condensate pipe issue if it is already internal. Is this temperature related or just coincidence?
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
I really dont get how the heating in my place works at all - I know that when I get up and if it is around 0 deg I can not get the thing to turn on. but it will work if you try it when it gets a bit warmer.
Rorton
Established Member
Any led display on the front showing numbers?
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
The worst is that cos I am shielding, once builders etc find out they wont come near. My flat is a building site as work was started in 2019 to replace all my joists and floors and only half got done as I got ill and covid hit. so been living with this on and off. but now I have 4 inches of snow outside and I cant even have a bath. evryday my kitchen sinks a little lower into the solum. it is not fun living the high life I can tell you
Rorton
Established Member
Is the pressure ok (dial on the front) Should be between the green markings
Rorton
Established Member
Bit of a troubleshooting flow chart in the manual here you could maybe follow?
https://baxi-public.partsarena.com/Documents//DOC_002683/DOC_002683.htm
https://baxi-public.partsarena.com/Documents//DOC_002683/DOC_002683.htm
Rorton
Established Member
Sorry no pressure dial, not a combo is it I don’t think
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
I have no idea, plumbing stuff just goes over my head. never been able to get my head round it. Only job I normaly get someone in to do, everything else i give a go at. I still dont know how to program the box lcd thing in the airing cubboard
NormanB
Established Member
The condensate pipe should be around 38mm in diameter and be directed to drain. They are specified to be insulated too but many ‘GasSafe’ installers do not bother. It will have frozen up - you need to identify the pipe as it exits below the boiler and trace its route, then thaw it out. Lagging any visible external condensate pipe should reduce chance of future freezing.
Rorton
Established Member
would that be the case even if the pipe is running internally to the sink waste?
user 35906
Established Member
- Joined
- 27 Jan 2021
- Messages
- 121
- Reaction score
- 59
The Baxi Solo HE is not a combi boiler so wont have a prv pipe coming out from it.
https://www.freeboilermanuals.com/assets/pdf/baxi/solo-he-a-installation-instructions.pdfOn page 44 it shows a service drain plug next to the condensate pipe exit from the boiler if you have access to this you could unscrew the plastic plug with a bowl underneath to catch any condensate, drain it then replace the plug. Even if the pipe is blocked the boiler should be empty for a short time before it fills up, again. Don't run the boiler with the plug removed as the boiler can also emit fumes from / through the syphon trap if it is empty.
Unlikely to be frozen if all the condensate pipe is inside.
https://www.freeboilermanuals.com/assets/pdf/baxi/solo-he-a-installation-instructions.pdfOn page 44 it shows a service drain plug next to the condensate pipe exit from the boiler if you have access to this you could unscrew the plastic plug with a bowl underneath to catch any condensate, drain it then replace the plug. Even if the pipe is blocked the boiler should be empty for a short time before it fills up, again. Don't run the boiler with the plug removed as the boiler can also emit fumes from / through the syphon trap if it is empty.
Unlikely to be frozen if all the condensate pipe is inside.
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
OK gave that a try and that bit is choked with a pinky/purple crap. A big splodge came out and I can feel a hell of a lot more in there so think that bit may be blocked with crud. so will see what I can to to sort that out
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
Many thanks to one and all for your assistance yesterday. After about 3 hours of pokey sticky with a bottle cleaner etc managed to sort of clear the condensate trap. and pipe. left it overnight and after 3 attempts the thing fired up this morning. So YAY now have some warmth in the flat. @hunter27 mucho grassy *** for the manual as that was a massive help and I actually learned a lot about how the bloody thing works
What that is telling you is there is an ignition lockout. There are a number of possible causes including the condensate drain being frozen up and a few other things that I would not tackle on a DIY basis, the clunk is the gas supply valve shutting down. I had my boiler fail at Christmas and found on line manuals which gave very useful fault finding codes from the 3 lights you mention. Could be as simple as the flame sensing thermocouple or the condensate trap being full of scale, be very suspicious of anyone who tells you it's the PCB or other expensive easy to change part without checking. I'm an engineer and used to work for British Gas but not as a boiler fitter, so I still got someone in to fix mine who was gas safe registered and had all the correct kit including CO meter, but found it very useful to be able to talk to him from a position of knowing what the fault might be. Very glad I did, found other faults on my 15 year old boiler, learnt a lot and got a very professional service. With agreement I was able to keep the price down by doing the draining down and simple dismantling myself then ordering parts as required but left the rebuild and commissioning to the person qualified to do it. The first time he rebuilt it there was a minor CO leakage he found with his meter that I would not have know about, turned out to be a slight misalignment of a gasket caused by dirt dropping in on assembly, he said my fault and didn't charge me for the extra time to correct.
Manuals for many boilers can be found here, personally I'm happy to do things like empty the condensate trap or replace a flow switch and have saved a bit of money over the years by knowing what the problem is and finding parts less scrutable fitters have told me where unobtainable but really don't recommend messing with the gas or flue side.
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine
NormanB
Established Member
I am not a ’Gas Safe’ engineer but would say no.
Wrote all that waffle then saw you fixed it - sorry should read the whole lot before jumping in
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
Glad for all the in Ozi. I was a little worried about trying to sort it but once I found out about the trap and the drain plug, i though that at least should be within my meagre abilities. Although it appears I may have been premature, as it has gone into the lockout state again
AAARRRGGHHH
AAARRRGGHHH
That pinky/purple rubbish is a mixture of combustion products and the aluminum heat exchanger, if you read the manual it should be dismantled and cleaned once a year, mine never was. It's not a good sign but if you have the whole lot stripped and cleaned it may slow down further erosion as acidic products can build up inside the fire box. If it fixed the problem temporally it may be that more junk has been disturbed which can short out contacts at the top of the condensate trap would be worth washing it out and trying again.
