Norwegian wood(shop) build

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Krysstel":crrkcb61 said:
Thanks for everyone's help. I've replaced all the pictures with .jpg files instead of links to Google. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

Mark
Buy more importantly... where are the next set of photos? :D
 
By popular demand here comes some more pictures :)

I'd temporarily stiffened up the structure with diagonal bracing on the inside of the frame but the real strength against racking comes from the external cladding. In addition, instead of the normal house-wrap I used 12mm asphalt covered fiberboard nailed to the framework. This both stiffens the construction, helps with sound deadening and gives some increase in insulation.
 

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The fiberboards rest on 11x23 pressure impregnated batterns I fixed all the way round the building. The whole lot was then covered over with a very sticky breathable tape that seals the border between the foundation and the wall construction.

Mark

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After the fiberboards came the batterning to create an air gap behind the cladding. I used 23x28 for this.
Then it was on to the cladding. Ready primered boards saved a lot of time and were only slightly more expensive than unpainted. As an extra precaution I used treated boards as the first board.
The whole back wall is also treated boards as this is towards a line of trees and I intend to leave this unpainted.

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The last thing necessary to get the building watertight (apart from the window holes !!) was the roof.
I used this beathable membrane which is stretched over the rafters and held down by pressure impregnated 36x48 batterns.
Across the first batterns I then attached 30x48 using 16cm external grade screws down through both layers of battern and into the rafters. The roof tiles are then simply hung on the 30x48's without any fixings (nails, screws etc).
I think this is a pretty standard way of building a roof in Norway.

Chears :)
Mark
 

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Time to seal up all those big holes in the walls :D

The windows are double glazed units with glass that's supposed to have better sound absorption than standard. They're side hinged with duplex (stuck on :wink: ) frames and with air vents at the top. Ready painted off white.
The door is a similar design.

The norm in Norway is to seal the window frame to the opening with breathable tape and use a ready made steel flashing over and under. On the front wall I dropped the flashings above the windows/door as the roof overhang takes care of the same function.

Mark

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Looking great, Mark.

We went through a phase of counterbattening our rooves over here some 20 years or so ago, but it was dropped after testing showed that there was enough airflow through our typical roofing materials to render it unnecessary. I presume you are going to fit some sort of sheet material (pressed metal, for instance), hence the need for the additional airgap?

(Battens, BTW, not batterns)
 
MikeG.":ijmvpwgj said:
Looking great, Mark.

We went through a phase of counterbattening our rooves over here some 20 years or so ago, but it was dropped after testing showed that there was enough airflow through our typical roofing materials to render it unnecessary. I presume you are going to fit some sort of sheet material (pressed metal, for instance), hence the need for the additional airgap?

(Battens, BTW, not batterns)

To be honest I'm just following standard practice here as I don't know any different :oops:

All I know is that before breathable membranes became the norm here we used to build with a ventilated space between the insulation and a boarded subroof (I've seen a similar method used in Scotland on Grand Designs). Then the battening was a lot lower; 11mm as first layer and 23mm counterbattening, whilst now with breathable membranes and no subroof the recommendation is to use much thicker battens. The spec from the roofing supplier I've used gave different thicknesses for different roof sizes, pitched etc. With my 22 degree roof, 3m from foot to ridge and 7.5m long the minimum recommendation was 36mm first layer + 30mm counterbatten. I'll be using concrete roofing tiles and to hang them safely you really can't go any thinner then 30mm in my opinion. We don't fix them down here. They come formed to simply hang on the batten.

I'll post pictures of the roof tiles and flashing etc in a while.

Mark
 
After finishing off all the cladding it was on to the roof tiles. 500 of them had to be hand carried about 50m from where they had been delivered to and round to the workshop build, and then up onto the roof :(
 

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The type of tiles I used do not require any form of mechanical fixing but just simply hang from the batterns.
 

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The ridge is finished off with a membrane tape that has a open gauze in the middle (the black part in the picture) and glues down along the top row of tiles (the red part). The ridge tiles then cover the tape and makes the ridge as good as watertight, but breathable.
 

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At the eaves and on top of the fascia boards it's normal here to use ready made metal flashings. I used tile red at the eaves and white on the fascia top-board.
 

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Really like this build and loving the look, very neat. Great job and thank you for the ongoing pictures of the progress!

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 
You'll be pleased, you're nearly finished. You can start moving your hand tools and machines into their new home soon. I'm envious.

Cheers, Vann.
 
This is as far as I got with the exterior this season.
Managed to get all the guttering and down pipes installed and a coat of paint on all that matters before the autumn weather closed in. With winter just around the corner I'll be concentrating on the inside from now until Christmas.

Mark
 

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Super work Mark....nice to see how you do it in Norway.....a little different to here in southern Spain.

Thanks for posting

Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk
 
Jonathan S":1elam6m2 said:
Super work Mark....nice to see how you do it in Norway.....a little different to here in southern Spain.

Thanks for posting

Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk


Wait until you see the amount of insulation I'm putting in :lol: :lol:

Mark
 

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