New workshop project about to start

[Wood Monkey]

Hi Kris

I used a Kingspan type insulation. I battened out the area where my table saw stands just in case, but I think it was overkill. I've not noticed and sagging issues even on the regular part where I wheel my jointer out.

I'm just putting an extension on my workshop and this is going to get the same flooring.

 

[flying haggis]

come on Kris we need more progress pics

 

[Kris the Handyman]

Sorry about the delay lads. I've been flat out at work and not had much time to continue with the build (I'm self employed) but now I've taken someone on so life is a bit easier and I can crack on with the workshop.
Since the last update I have boarded up the walls and last weekend the roof went up so it's almost ready for the insulation and roof tiles.
Now the question is do I board up the underside of the trusses that are overhanging the building or leave them exposed? Any thoughts?

 

[Kris the Handyman]

I'm looking at tiles and the plain concrete tiles would weight 3900kg for this roof, that's almost 4T. Would this roof take it? I think this would be a question for Mike but maybe somebody else knows

 

[MikeG.]

Oooh, I love a good roof build!

Give me your rafter and tie timber sizes and spacings, and I'll let you know if your roof is up to the job you are proposing.

 

[Kris the Handyman]

Thanks Mike

The ridge is 200x63mm 8m long
Rafters are 150x50mm 2.7m long (on the short side) and 3.4m long (with the big overhang)
Spacing is roughly 600mm (bar one rafter where it's slightly more)

The tiles I'm looking at at the moment would weigh around 2.5T for this roof

 

[Kris the Handyman]

Some progress

Roof is now tied together and bolted up. Next up will be to sheet up the underside ready for insulation and membrane

 

[MikeG.]

Yeah that's strong enough, although you need some solid blocking in that gable ladder. Bear in mind I'm an architect not a structural engineer, so that's an opinion, not a calculation........but I personally wouldn't hesitate to put any sort of roof tiles on that structure.

 

[Kris the Handyman]

Thanks Mike. Yes, that was also my feeling just looking how solid it feels. Thank you

That gable does need something different than in that photo, I was really tired when I got to that bit and didn't really think it through. It's Makers Central this weekend so not much will be done

 

[flying haggis]

Hi Kris

have you considered the fibre cement slates that Steve Maskery used on his workshop build. they would be a lot lighter for your roof (not that I think you havent built a strong frame) I think they come in at about 20kg/M2

Steves build is here if you want a good read. he mentions the slates somewhere in there!!!!

1-steve-s-workshop-the-build-t79315.html

 

[Kris the Handyman]

I did consider them but they would be 2x the price of the standard ones and I want to close the project in £5k. Another benefit of the heavier tiles is that they should be less likely to come off the roof with the high winds I have coming from the fields.

Would I need a vented ridge for this roof? I would have the mesh at the bottom of the wall but where would the air exit? Through the breathable membrane and in between the nooks and crannies of the tiles or through a vented ridge? I will be installing a dry ridge and I can get the vented one instead of the standard one.

Bought myself a new nail gun, 2 in fact, because I was fed up with the Dewalt one. It would hardly ever sink the 90mm nails all the way in and it would jam way too frequently for my liking. So I got myself the new Hikoki set of 1st and 2nd fix nail guns. What a difference! Night and day. Highly recommend lads

 

[Kris the Handyman]

Just a quick update on the build. I had a bit more time and what's more important the help of a good friend of mine so there is a bit of progress on the build

All walls and roof now covered in OSB, then insulation added to the roof, membrane put on and a window put in so the building is now dry inside.
I then ordered the roof tiles but I wasn't happy with them so returned them and went with fibre cement slates, in my opinion they look 100 times better and are lighter. Only downside is that they are more expensive.
I will be fitting a roof window next weekend and continue with the tiling

 

[MikeG.]

Excellent. Looks great.

 

[Kris the Handyman]

Mike, I bought shiplap and now I was wondering:
a) does the same rule of nailing apply to shiplap as on your boards? eg. one nail per board about 35mm from the bottom of the board?
b) I'm buying some expensive paint for it. Do I need to paint both sides or would priming the internal side be enough and all the rest for the outside?

Cheers

 

[MikeG.]

The nailing rule is the same. What paint did you buy? The use of the word "primer" worries me a little, because the best paints (microporous, flexible, water-based) don't require priming, but simply a thinned first coat.

 

[Kris the Handyman]

Thanks for confirming that Mike

As for the paint I always use an undercoat, especially externally. Zinsser is my usual go to undercoat. The paint that I'm planning to get for the workshop is this Jotun one:
Jotun paint
and it does say that it requires an undercoat on any bare wood with this undercoat:
Jotun primer
So now the question is whether the anti fungal primer will be enough for the internal side of the ship lap or does it need a top coat?

 

[MikeG.]

I absolutely would not use that paint. It's your project, though, and your choice.

 

[Kris the Handyman]

Any reason why not?

 

[DBT85]

Kris, did you make it to the end?