MikeG.
Established Member
Why have you built a wall across the face of the wall of the house?
New workshop for 2020
- Thread starter Sheptonphil
- Start date
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Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
Hi Mike
Added a wall to add acoustic insulation and acoustic plasterboard. I have been told in no uncertain terms that any noise coming from the workshop will render it un-operational and out of bounds unless I'm using a sewing machine.
The other side of that wall is the lounge the whole length of the workshop.
So far, despite being confined to the house, the only time the good lady has heard anything is when the gas nailer goes off. The chop saw and drills/driver, mixer and even hammer etc has gone un-noticed. It was £80 of timber and as much again in insulation to at least show I did something to stop the noise.
It will also make a nice finish for the workshop, as all the walls will be painted white, and for hanging cupboards and shelves. Might also be a section of French cleats, but I know how much you hate them. All the machinery (especially the CNC router which can run for two hours at a session) is destined for the other side wall, with the extractor and compressor in the sound insulated ante-room. All walls will have 100mm rockwool acoustic insulation.
Added a wall to add acoustic insulation and acoustic plasterboard. I have been told in no uncertain terms that any noise coming from the workshop will render it un-operational and out of bounds unless I'm using a sewing machine.
The other side of that wall is the lounge the whole length of the workshop.
So far, despite being confined to the house, the only time the good lady has heard anything is when the gas nailer goes off. The chop saw and drills/driver, mixer and even hammer etc has gone un-noticed. It was £80 of timber and as much again in insulation to at least show I did something to stop the noise.
It will also make a nice finish for the workshop, as all the walls will be painted white, and for hanging cupboards and shelves. Might also be a section of French cleats, but I know how much you hate them. All the machinery (especially the CNC router which can run for two hours at a session) is destined for the other side wall, with the extractor and compressor in the sound insulated ante-room. All walls will have 100mm rockwool acoustic insulation.
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
Mike, if I may ask, on the house wall side, obviously I will not be putting anything wall side, but should I put vapour barrier between studs and plasterboard?
MikeG.
Established Member
Blimey........let me think.
Presumably that's a heated room in the house, the other side of the wall? What is the wall construction?
Presumably that's a heated room in the house, the other side of the wall? What is the wall construction?
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
The wall is dry lined, lightweight blocks, then cavity, then the stone exterior as pictures. The room is heated by radiator or open fire.
Thanks.
Thanks.
MikeG.
Established Member
A vapour barrier should be on the warm side of the insulation. Here, you have an intermittently heated external space and a permanently warm internal space. The vapour build up is going to be more on the house side of the wall rather than the workshop side. Even when heated, it is unlikely the workshop will be as warm as the house (workshops normally get heated to 15 to 18 degrees). This means the vapour movement is likely to be from inside the house to the workshop most of the time, and almost never the other way (which would require the workshop to be warmer than the house). Any barrier to this movement should be close to the inside face of the house wall, and nowhere else. Therefore, there should be no vapour barrier applied to the new workshop wall.
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
Wow, what a comprehensive answer, thankyou I follow the logic and won't put one there.
I've got loads of excess breathable membrane, certainly enough for that wall if that would be any benefit.
Cant decide whether to put the electrics in the wall as they are open at present, or trunk them later.
Obviously to do them now would mean deciding where virtually every socket, switch and light would go, trunking would be less tidy, but leave options completely open. perhaps a hybrid approach? gotta think that one through.
I've got loads of excess breathable membrane, certainly enough for that wall if that would be any benefit.
Cant decide whether to put the electrics in the wall as they are open at present, or trunk them later.
Obviously to do them now would mean deciding where virtually every socket, switch and light would go, trunking would be less tidy, but leave options completely open. perhaps a hybrid approach? gotta think that one through.
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
Finished off the noggins, fitted the double top plate and tidied the site ready for the next stage.
All in all, a good week’s work from foundations to framework finished.
Can now get a good idea of how the space will work, and I may be able to put another small detached wood store at the back of the ante-room below the wall. There’s a space 2.5m by 1.5 that will go to waste otherwise.
Electrics first fix tomorrow.
All in all, a good week’s work from foundations to framework finished.
Can now get a good idea of how the space will work, and I may be able to put another small detached wood store at the back of the ante-room below the wall. There’s a space 2.5m by 1.5 that will go to waste otherwise.
Electrics first fix tomorrow.
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DBT85
Established Member
Looking great! Nice to use this extra time off we have!
On sockets, I hate surface mount electrics but it does offer the benefit of flexibility. You're also less likely to stick a screw through the cable as you can see where it's all going.
Given your shop will probably have a lot more sockets than an average room it might be best.
It also makes insulation and boarding out less work as you don't have to think about cables, sockets and cutouts.
Off the top of my head (I'm no no electrician), to hide it all you need to put a hole in the middle of each stud, run the cables all the way around, put metal plates over each stud where the cable goes to stop you wanging a screw I to the stuff there. Then you can insulate the cavities while having to work around the cables, board out while cutting socket holes (or at least a small hole to pull cable though to then do a surface mount socket).
Lighting might be less of an issue as a lot of the led panels and stuff can be daisy chained to each other. So you might only need an outlet at either end of the shop and then work inwards with the lights from there.
Im in two minds myself. Fortunately I haven't started yet!
On sockets, I hate surface mount electrics but it does offer the benefit of flexibility. You're also less likely to stick a screw through the cable as you can see where it's all going.
Given your shop will probably have a lot more sockets than an average room it might be best.
It also makes insulation and boarding out less work as you don't have to think about cables, sockets and cutouts.
Off the top of my head (I'm no no electrician), to hide it all you need to put a hole in the middle of each stud, run the cables all the way around, put metal plates over each stud where the cable goes to stop you wanging a screw I to the stuff there. Then you can insulate the cavities while having to work around the cables, board out while cutting socket holes (or at least a small hole to pull cable though to then do a surface mount socket).
Lighting might be less of an issue as a lot of the led panels and stuff can be daisy chained to each other. So you might only need an outlet at either end of the shop and then work inwards with the lights from there.
Im in two minds myself. Fortunately I haven't started yet!
MikeG.
Established Member
It's a workshop......who cares what the cabling looks like. Run it on the surface and be able to avoid it, shift it, alter it, and extend it at will. I added 2 panels to my workshop lighting yesterday. It took longer to mount the panels than to do the electrics, because everything is accessible.
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
Its the way I'm heading mentally as it won't be easy to get through or around the door headers, it will mean bringing that to the surface in those two places, also I'll have to leave spare cable all over the place 'just in case', probably in every gap.
Surface trunk in 22mm conduit will look decent enough, as Mike says 'It's a workshop'
thanks both for swaying the decision.
Surface trunk in 22mm conduit will look decent enough, as Mike says 'It's a workshop'
thanks both for swaying the decision.
MikeG.
Established Member
Sheptonphil":3c42mg6w said:
Lintels.
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
SorryMikeG.":3c4pkvaq said:
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
A plodding progress today, the membrane, insulation and OSB was not a difficult job, but needed a setup of a methodical routine.
It was fun when the wind got up, I’m building in a bit of a wind tunnel and ten metres of membrane trying to get away from me was frustrating. I managed about half the framework but all the membrane, so another day should knock a hole in this job. I’ve a fair amount of membrane spare, so will probably put some on the wall side even though it doesn’t need it, so I can insulate that and keep it from getting wet.
It was fun when the wind got up, I’m building in a bit of a wind tunnel and ten metres of membrane trying to get away from me was frustrating. I managed about half the framework but all the membrane, so another day should knock a hole in this job. I’ve a fair amount of membrane spare, so will probably put some on the wall side even though it doesn’t need it, so I can insulate that and keep it from getting wet.
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flying haggis
Established Member
re electrics if you put square or rectangular 50x50 or 50x75 trunking all round the top of the shop on top of the wall boarding you can then drop a length of conduit down to anywhere for switches sockets etc
DBT85
Established Member
Looking great Phil. Keep it coming!
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
Sounds a good idea thanks, gives loads of options then. I’ll have a look round and see what’s about.flying haggis":eakn4yy3 said:
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
Thanks, it’s hard work on your own, but quite rewarding working out ways to handle jobs you would normally do with two people.DBT85":3sgr98sx said:
More progress today, doesn’t look much difference, but all the insulation is now finished and all but one of the OSB cut and fitted, with the last one to do tomorrow.
A bit of tinkering over doors etc. And rip some 3x1 to finish the battening on the external corners to do.
The platform made from a couple of lengths of 4x2 on the trestles made cutting the OSB with the track saw and insulation with a hand saw so much easier at a decent height.
I’ve been doing DIY for best part of fifty years, hanging wallpaper before I was 11 years old, and the one thing I’ve found this last couple of weeks is wearing Stanley nitrile fronted gloves so much kinder on the hands. Doesn’t restrict feeling of tools or fixings, you need less pressure holding materials and no splinters to boot. At the end of the day, hands are far less fatigued and never sore.
Today’s efforts.
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DBT85
Established Member
Oh yeah man grip gloves make a huge difference at the end of the day. Your knuckles don't feel like you went 10 rounds with the Hulk because you've not been putting nearly as much work in to heft stuff around.
While my shop isn't going anywhere any time soon I'm learning Fusion 360. My brother wanted a drawing for his garage office so using that as a project for timber framing! Got to keep busy some how (after looking after the kid, the DIY, the gardening, fixing everything, etc)!
While my shop isn't going anywhere any time soon I'm learning Fusion 360. My brother wanted a drawing for his garage office so using that as a project for timber framing! Got to keep busy some how (after looking after the kid, the DIY, the gardening, fixing everything, etc)!
Sheptonphil
Scrumpy junkie
Never worn gloves for this type of work before, but for £1.99 a pair from B&M, which has lasted two weeks and still loads of life left in them, I’ll never not wear them again. Toolstation ones at the same money are really good as well, but buy a size larger than normal, for large buy extra large.
Advice on the electrics please.
It’s been mooted in a few places that one or two 20A 4mm radial circuit/s for the sockets is better than a 32A ring (or two). Uses less cable and just as efficient.
Does anyone have an opinion?
Advice on the electrics please.
It’s been mooted in a few places that one or two 20A 4mm radial circuit/s for the sockets is better than a 32A ring (or two). Uses less cable and just as efficient.
Does anyone have an opinion?
