New workshop for 2020

[Fil]

Sheptonphil

Is that cedral or hardie cement board?

And how much over lap did you use?

Also you say nailed on, what nails where you using, and no mention of predrilled holes, so guessing you didn't? Did any crack?

Oh and what did you cut the boards with?


And that does look a nice tidy job, colour look well too!

 

[Sheptonphil]

Sheptonphil

Is that cedral or hardie cement board?

And how much over lap did you use?

Also you say nailed on, what nails where you using, and no mention of predrilled holes, so guessing you didn't? Did any crack?

Oh and what did you cut the boards with?


And that does look a nice tidy job, colour look well too!

Hi, it is Hardie plank in khaki brown, it was the colour nearest to the house stone colour. I bought 100 lengths from squaredealpvc, they were 20% cheaper than most others and delivered 5m from the workshop instead of kerbside which would be 70m away. Edit, also bought all the trims from them, the corner trims are dear, but they are thick aluminium section which makes for a superb finish at the external corners, Complimented by the J channel for door frames and edges

This stuff is not cheap, to clad the three faces in timber would have been £600-700, the kit with boards, trims, gauges and delivery was a tad over £2000 :shock: :shock:

The overlap is the standard 30mm of a 180mm board, giving 150mm coverage.

I was going to buy a Hardie guillotine, but was told by the person selling it that an angle grinder was better, especially on the angled verge cuts (so I didn’t buy his guillotine). I used a 125mm grinder with an Aldi diamond blade, it made little dust as the boards were wet, I wore a mask anyway, and it cut in two passes, first a scoring pass, then cut through in one steady draw. Took 20 seconds a cut.

They were fixed with a paslode 350im first fix nail gun with a no mar nose. The nails were galvanised 51mm ring shank. I did get too near the top twice, mis judged where the nail was coming from, and broke off a couple of mm at the top, but just shot a nail below it by 10mm and it was fixed. There is no need to pre drill when using a gun. The very first row I did drill and hand nail, (10 holes and I blunted a HSS drill so changed to 3mm mason army bit) leaving the heads proud just to make sure I could remove and adjust them if needed as the wall was three boards long and I set three boards on to the starter aluminium strip, pulled a string line across the face and made sure I had a straight run, as using the gauges every course will follow the previous. If this one was wrong, the rest would mirror it. I did check level every five courses, but didn’t have to make any adjustments at all throughout the cladding, it just held level.

The boards are a bit whippy so need a bit of careful handling, but with the Geckos, it is a perfectly doable one man job, just far easier with two.

 

[Fil]

Many thanks for the replys.

And yep have seen the prices, but will be in the same boat , under 30m2 but over the 15m2 and within 1 M of the boundrys, so this fibre cement board is the way to go.


But belive the expense will also pay off over the long term, in the need for no real lifetime maintance unlike the wood alternatives

 

[Sheptonphil]

Many thanks for the replys.

And yep have seen the prices, but will be in the same boat , under 30m2 but over the 15m2 and within 1 M of the boundrys, so this fibre cement board is the way to go.


But belive the expense will also pay off over the long term, in the need for no real lifetime maintance unlike the wood alternatives

Mine really came down to two choices, use the fibre cement plank (and fireline plasterboard internally) and suck up the cost, or don’t have a workshop. The no maintenance was a big bonus, my last workshop was shiplap, and had to be repainted with fifteen litres of ducks back at least every other year as it was fairly exposed to the elements. This one is far more secluded on the whole and maintenance free, win win.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Only a half day today, local volunteer group wanted someone to put four external key safes on vulnerable persons houses so helpers can get access during this damnable virus, so I got the job.

The door lining for the front stable door is now in, the door to make when I can get enough tools operational. Then on to first fix electrical. The 40mm trunking is now screwed around the ceiling perimeter of both rooms. The first two LED panel mounts are in, the rest marked up. Should be able to finish them tomorrow, as well as put the light in the dirty room, run all the cables between them, the switch and consumer unit location, ready for my electrician who hopefully will be here at the weekend, to make the worksop live from meter box and consumer unit. Can’t put sockets on yet as it’s still in flux where everything will go. Also got to trench out to summer house and run a cable there as it’s going to get its power from the workshop CU. Keep thinking I’m getting closer to the end, then find another ten jobs to do. :shock:

 

[DBT85]

I'd not worry about planning for socket locations and just bang a load up at intervals. You can add more later if needed but as long as they are at a sensible height where they won't get stuck behind cabinets or benches just put loads in. You'll doubtless find that youll still have 2 or 3 extension leads in there anyway :lol:

 

[Sheptonphil]

I'd not worry about planning for socket locations and just bang a load up at intervals. You can add more later if needed but as long as they are at a sensible height where they won't get stuck behind cabinets or benches just put loads in. You'll doubtless find that youll still have 2 or 3 extension leads in there anyway :lol:

I had forty outlets in my last workshop, and still there were none where I wanted one in places, so I’ll be putting in loads. I need also to see where the 16a circuit is going, wall heater, water heater, separate circuit for CNC (it doesn’t like sharing). At least with the trunking it won’t be hard to add circuits.

Can’t decide if six LED 6000k 48w panels will be enough, I think it will be a case of wire them up and see, then add either another two, or specific task lighting at machines or work spaces as required. :?

 

[DBT85]

Considering the length of your space if have thought you want more personally. I was assuming I'd have 8 or 10.

 

[flying haggis]

40mm trunking might be a tad small especially nearest the c.u. get your sparky to put a couple of double sockets next to the cu to enable you to get on with the rest of the shop using ext leads till you decide on socket positons

 

[Sheptonphil]

Considering the length of your space if have thought you want more personally. I was assuming I'd have 8 or 10.

Hmm, think two more may be in order. I wired one up, held it to the ceiling and judged where it lit up well. Seems to be at least 1.2m. I’ve put the first 1.2m from back workshop wall, next would be mid point, 2.4m away, giving 1.2 span either side, and last one 2.4m away from that, so 1.2m from front wall. Each panel would cover 1.2m in each direction as they are.

 

[Sheptonphil]

40mm trunking might be a tad small especially nearest the c.u. get your sparky to put a couple of double sockets next to the cu to enable you to get on with the rest of the shop using ext leads till you decide on socket positons

Sparky specced the 40mm trunking, says it can hold eleven 2.5 cables, which should be ample. Worst case scenario, I can go up into loft space to run cables for specific routes that will not alter like the heaters and 16A. I’ve done the whole build on a single extension lead from the garage up to now, but I do notice the flood lights dim when I turn the mitre saw on. :shock: Will be good to get the 10mm connected. A couple of sockets near the CU will be an ideal start as I do know that’s where the pillar drill is going.

 

[MikeG.]

I've got 3 over my bench.

 

[Sheptonphil]

I've got 3 over my bench.

Wow! I’ve just ordered three more, the middle will now have five, plus a pair each end covering a metre each. All the walls are white, that should help.

 

[Inspector]

Rule of thumb for lighting is 1000 lumens per square metre where detailed work is being done. My shop is almost 60 square metres and I have sixteen 4,000 lumen fixtures for a total of 64,000 lumens. I like it bright.

Pete

 

[Sheptonphil]

Rule of thumb for lighting is 1000 lumens per square metre where detailed work is being done. My shop is almost 60 square metres and I have sixteen 4,000 lumen fixtures for a total of 64,000 lumens. I like it bright.

Pete

My panels are 4500 lumens, this part is 28 sqm, on your calculation works out as seven or eight. I’ve first fixed all the wires this morning for eight panels, only got the six at present, four more to come on Friday. Two of them will go near front door and have two more in case I want task lighting over bench or lathe. I also like it bright.

Dirty room will get a twin 6ft batten light, used to be over my central workbench in old workshop, that’s first fixed already, as is the outside light.

It’s bright with six, will be superb with eight. No shadows when I walk up through.

 

[DBT85]

Ah are they not daisy chained to one another then? Each is its own fitting? Looking so nice when its all white and bright.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Ah are they not daisy chained to one another then? Each is its own fitting? Looking so nice when its all white and bright.

Yes they are daisy chained. Using Wago connectors, the circuit is there, live and insulated at present. There are two, three way wagos which are forming the chain at present. Two ways are used as loop in and loop out, the driver will go in to the third on each. The earth is a two way in/out as the panel is double insulated and no earth needed. The light panels will form the enclosure to make them comply with regs as a tool is needed to remove panel. The new fangled push in connectors make these joints and circuits a breeze compared to the old strip terminals and junction boxes.

 

[DBT85]

Ahh nice. A link for your panels?

Can I ask what you did to close up your eaves? Mike on his just chopped up some 2x4 and then took a planer to any bits poking out.

I can't see from the pics what you did.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Ahh nice. A link for your panels?

Can I ask what you did to close up your eaves? Mike on his just chopped up some 2x4 and then took a planer to any bits poking out.

I can't see from the pics what you did.

I got them from the bay, from this company. For my last four, they were listed as none available, but I was able to buy them direct from them and pay by paypal. They are being delivered tomorrow. If still zero stock, send a message. They are purpose made surface mount units, not panel and frame separate.

I closed off the eaves the same, started with 5x1 par and planed to fit.

More first fix today, and temporarily powering the dirty room lights. I managed to find the cable I’d run up the wall which is going to the underfloor sockets. I had measured them, marked the plasterboard when I added it, them promptly painted over the markings. (hammer) (hammer) (hammer) Fortunately I knew they passed through the 1.2m point somewhere to the left of the floor position. Drilling a 32m hole on the line I’m putting the sockets at gave me a bit of fishing room, and less than a finger length to the right, found the first one. The second was bang on the 32mm hole. So I have a feed to the underfloor in two places. There are two more in there if I feel the need tomorrow, else they can stay dormant and unconnected.

Powering the twin batten in the dirty room showed the brightness of the main workshop. Think the batten fitting is going tomorrow and two panels going up in its place.

 

[DBT85]

I got them from the bay, from this company. For my last four, they were listed as none available, but I was able to buy them direct from them and pay by paypal. They are being delivered tomorrow. If still zero stock, send a message. They are purpose made surface mount units, not panel and frame separate.

I closed off the eaves the same, started with 5x1 par and planed to fit.

Ahh great, thanks.

When you say the same, you nailed two bits together at 90 degrees, cut to fit, then planed down?

I think I'm going to need more 5x1 :lol:

Looking great with the lights, though only 2 sockets on the wall?