New workbench

[seanybaby]

I thought i'd finished the designing bit of my bench, clearly i hadn't thought enough about it. :lol: Plus you lot keep giving me great suggestions.

I can see the advantages of having a bigger stand and also disadvantages of wide drawers.

From the points mentioned, i think i will have to go for half drawers and a cupboard. I can't afford to have more drawers than that.

I just have to work out how to do this incorporating the K/D construction techniques. Originally i was to go for bolts to connect the long rails to end pieces. Now i will need a partition in the middle for the drawer runners to attach to.

For the drawer runners do these from screwfix seem ok? http://www.screwfix.com/prods/19672.../Drawer-Fittings/Side-Fix-Drawer-Runner-450mm
My inside measurement for the drawers is about 500mm so do i go for the 450mm or 400mm runners?

 

[wizer]

go with these

http://www.bullerltd.co.uk/product.php/2092/0/

franction more costs but the advantage of full extension

 

[seanybaby]

Thanks for the link :wink: Are they really much better?

I ask because they want £9 delivery and i also need to buy bolts, nuts, washers and coach screws. I would sooner get everything in one place at the same time.

 

[wizer]

yes delivery is a killer with buller. They are better, but I understand cost has to come into it. I think screwfix do full extension but are a bit more costly. B&Q sell them also.

 

[Wanlock Dod]

Sean,

I did as Jake has suggested and have drawers between the legs (a plywood box with drawers in it) and there is then a handy shelf under the bench top for all kinds of stuff. Although I'll admit it probably doesn't look so tidy.

I have abotu a 14 inch overhang at each end beyond the legs of my bench and I've never felt that stability is an issue.

Cheers,

Dod

 

[MrJay]

I have to say that I really like the first sketch. It may be lopsided, but it's a long way from unstable. I think it's deceptive, if the bench extended equally on either side there'd be no discussion. My 6ft bench extends roughly a foot and a half either side with legs roughly 3 foot apart and I defy anyone to try and make it wobble; it's like trying to push a house.

If it was me I'd bring the legs forward so they're in the same plane as the front edge of the top and thus useful for supporting deep boards and so on - if you're dead set on draws I'm sure you can bungle something together that has them set back a bit so you can clampify all over the front edge. My bench just has a simple shelf about the stretchers, and while I originally envisaged using it as tool storage it's really very much better reserved as a temporary home for plonking down stuff that's actively in use. My guess is that you should get the top and legs built and then think about adding draws and the particulars of how you go about it after using it a while.

 

[seanybaby]

MrJay i think you have hit the nail on the head

I have been messing around trying to get my big bench even bigger. As long as it doesn't move when in use i will be happy. If i did make it bigger i would need more timber, thus more cash, so i have decided to keep my original design. Your bench sounds about the same dimensions as mine

I have evened out the base and put 300mm each end for the vices, i may have to make that space a little bigger yet. Once i fit the vices i will see what space i have left.

I am intent in having drawers because i need them as easy storage and access to my hand tools. My next question is how long do the drawer runners need to be. I haven't used any before. The drawer will be between 500 -535mm deep. So do i go for 500mm or 450mm runners?

 

[seanybaby]

I have been pondering and measuring my mam's kitchen drawers. They are 450mm runners which only come out about 350mm so i have concluded that my bench needs 500mm runners.

I rang screwfix and asked what the depth of groove would be needed on the drawer sides. They couldn't answer that.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/55282/Kitchens/Kitchen-Fittings/Drawer-Fittings/Drawer-Runners-500mm#

Am i right in thinking you can actually put a groove in, instead of mounting them flush?

 

[seanybaby]

Got my breadboards and tenons cut today. First time iv'e used a hand router for a length of time, as at college there are big over head routers. I think it went pretty well and i'm less scared of them now

 

[seanybaby]

I sized my back rail and did a dry cramp.

Cramped up, and doweled the breadboards on. Only put glue on the first part where the vices will go.

Fit tool tray with with elongated holes and a 10mm gap for expansion.

I did try routing the mortise for my vises, but was a bit too cumbersome. I'm still not confident enough to use the hand router on an assembled piece, so went for the traditional chisel and mallet.

 

[OPJ]

Coming along nicely, Sean.

I'd have thought that making an MDF jig and using a handheld router would've been an effective way of cutting those mortices? But, if you're happy enough to use hand tools then, that's to be commended!

 

[seanybaby]

This week i have managed to get my base components made. The end panels have been rebated. Next job will be to put the bolts in that hold the 4 long rails to the end panels.

 

[seanybaby]

My panel ends will be glued and fixed and the rails will be bolted together so i can knock it down if necessary.

I chiselled a recess so the nut can be dropped in and will not spin when i tighten the bolts.

Next job is to fit my back panel, i'm using beech veneered mdf that college had. Nice to have it all made from the same material, although it's hidden. 4 drawers and runners to fit and some dog holes and i'll be just about done.

 

[OPJ]

Looks like it's coming along well. I agree with what you said much earlier about using only half the space below the top for drawers.

Are you using nylon locks nuts with those bolts? They're a pipper to get on and off again but, depending on what kind of work and how much abuse you intend to give your bench, there's no chance of them working lose over time.

 

[seanybaby]

No nylon lock nuts, i have a box of 100 normal ones. If they work loose, i'll give a quick tighten as the bolts will be easy to get to. Good idea though

 

[seanybaby]

It's about time i updated this thread, i have recently got a woodworking job, so have brought my workbench home to finish.

All i have to do now is finish the vice jaws, dog holes and drawers.

Here's the base at college.

I used a simple drill guide from axminster for the dog holes

Just 4 dovetail drawers to make now.

 

[woodbloke]

Sean - excellent =D> Curious to know why you inset a piece into the front apron of the bench for one of the vice cheeks? I have the same vice in roughly the same place on my bench and opted to fit a separate cheek screwed to the front apron, the main advantage of a separate cheek being that it's then much easier to make up a set of 'soft jaw faces' that slot over the hardwood ones...useful for holding finished or sanded components that you can't afford to damage.
Excellent bench tho'...fitting for a holdfast or no? - Rob

 

[Paul Chapman]

Great bench, Sean =D> You must be very pleased with that. Just one small point - I see that you have the dogs positioned at the ends of the cheeks on the end vice. This can sometimes cause some racking if you are using just one of them. If you find it a problem, I would put another dog as close as you can get it to the vice screw and drill a corresponding row of holes along the bench top.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[OPJ]

Glad to see you got it all home in one piece (...well, two, actually!).

Are the college okay with you taking it home to finish? Does this not affect your assessment in any way?

Good to see the put your bench in the right place too. I've got a similar single-car garage space and my bench is under the window, spanning the width of the garage. If it wasn't more than 8ft bloody long, I'd have moved it already. That'll all change when I come to replace it though - your thread's given me some good ideas, thanks.

 

[OPJ]

Is that your article in the latest issue of Good Wood?

Well done.