My Pens so far

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nicguthrie

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I am, on the whole, about as far from an exhibitionist type as you can get - tending more toward being happy as a hermit if it were not for my wife winkling me out of my shell every day. However I promised I'd post a couple of pictures of the pens I've made so far, so here they are.

Bear in mind these are around the 5th to 10th items I've ever turned, so go easy on me... I deliberately took individual closeups so that any flaws etc are clear! Pics are not great, as all I have is a camera phone, and very little photography skill.

One thing has me stumped. On the "Cigar Pen" I used Cocobolo for the first time, and it's covered in dull areas in the CA finish. I've stripped it back to wood and recoated it, and they come back in the exact same places if not worse. These dull areas sand thru faster than the rest, as if the coating has vanished partway already... I just can't make head nor tail of it. That and the purple "Purse Pen are a wedding present that's getting very late indeed, so I'm a little annoyed that I can't seem to fix it after 3 sand-backs and recoats. I'm considering sanding it once more and coating it with shellawax instead - see if that stays put.

Spalted Birch Slimline.jpg


Wild Cherry and Copper Slimline (2).jpg

Wild Cherry and Copper Slimline.jpg


Purple Purse Pen closed.jpg

Purple Purse Pen Open.jpg


And the problem one...
Cocobolo and Red Acrylic Cigar.jpg

Cocobolo and Acrylic Cigar open.jpg


Yay! My first photos on the forums!
Any constructive criticism is welcome, especially if you know what the dreaded dull bits are caused or cured by. I tried slower coating, thicker coating, different glues, and even BLO/CA combination - all to no avail.

Thanks.

Nic.
 

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  • Wild Cherry and Copper Slimline (2).jpg
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  • Wild Cherry and Copper Slimline.jpg
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  • Purple Purse Pen Open.jpg
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  • Cocobolo and Red Acrylic Cigar.jpg
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some nice looking pens Nic =D>

from memory Cocobolo is quite an oily wood so needs either to be well sealed (sanding sealer) before the CA/ polish goes on or finished with something else, see here...
http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/oilwood.htm

I think my last cocobolo pen I just went overboard on the sanding including micromesh and waxed it and told the owner that he could either maintain it with a light waxing or let it patinate naturally :wink:
 
Thanks fellas, very encouraging.

Nev, one thing I didn't try was sanding sealer. I thought the CA would seal the wood better, if anything. I may well try that then, I'm just not happy with the dull mottled look of the finish on it, especially with a pen always being visible close up in use. It was presanded to around 6000 grit with micromesh before the first coat, but something is still spoiling the final gloss.

I think I may carefully mount it back on the mandrel (the cigar pen unscrews into straight sections, so it's doable) sand it back, and seal and wax it. Anything to get a better looking finish, even if it's not as durable.

Thanks for the views folks :)
 
Nic....


Like you said, knock it back to around 600 grit then use some of this...

http://www.turners-retreat.co.uk/hut-crystal-coat-6oz


A bit expensive but will last you a good few years, and many many dozens of pens, as you only needs a few drops for the whole pen.

And when you apply it have the lathe really 'buzzing'.... 2000rpm or more, use a piece of paper towel (NOT CLOTH...!!) :!:

Really 'squeeze' the wood/acrylic when you're applying. The liquid needs to get hot and almost burnish itself onto the material (if your fingers dont get 'warm' you aint squeezing hard and long enough :lol: )

Then let it cool before you attempt to touch/remove from the mandrel as it'll still be soft at this point... a few mins is fine.

Then post back with updated pics.... :D



Nick
 
Go easy on me he says! No! Because these are gorgeous!

I love turning pens (I have orders for about 15 at the moment) and these are inspirational to me. Thanks for posting them.

As soon as I can afford it I am going to get some of the HUT Crystal Coat. CA is good but it's playing havoc with my respiratory system.
 
Thanks Nick! :)

I did as planned, only rather than going out and buying another finish, I used my Shellawax that I'd already bought, and it did a terrific job.

I sanded back until the dust was coming up pink from the cocobolo rather than white from the CA glue, then cut it down to a finer grit again (only went to about 600 this time) Followed it with a going over with EEE wax shine stuff I have - from the shellawax manufacturers, followed by a triple layer of the shellawax to finish.

Lovely glossy finish, warm to the touch. No sign of those annoying dull mottles. I was so excited I forgot to give it a final microcrystalline wax finish like I normally do, and ran next door to the couple for whom I made them as a wedding present... So I also don't have a final pic for it!

Needless to say, they went down well 8)

I'd still like to know what causes these dull spots, as I'd love to avoid it again, maybe it was just the oils from the Cocobolo, as suggested? I'm sure I've seen tiny patches of it on Purpleheart too though, and I don't think that's as oily...
 
And Thanks Mr Finch - it was you and CHJ I think that got me out of my shell to post these, in some other thread.

I'd personally suggest the Shellawax over Hut CrystalCoat, after reading up on the two of them online, they're very similar in formulation, Crystalcoat seems to suggest it's a plastic coating but is actually a shellac formula apparently. Both have good reputations, but as NikNak pointed out, seems to need a lot of friction to get it to set, and some folks seem to struggle with it staying sticky on some woods etc.

I am still just a beginner, but I read heaps before I try anything, and the Aussie stuff (Shellawax) seemed overall to be the easier and more reliable. Could have just been the sources I found tho. If anyone knows where to find the dark version (Shellawax Glow) in the UK, I'd love to know.
 
Nic - from what I can see (at turners retreat) there's the shellawax cream, liquid and EEE.

Are you using both, ie EEE first then buff with the Shellawax or just the shellawax?

Coll
 
Thanks folks. next time I need a confidence boost, I'll look this page up - when it's "just" my wife telling me I've made something nice, it doesn't sink in like it does from fellow woodies :) (she kept my first spindle turning, skew practice piece as an ornament, so I can't really trust her judgement!)

Mr Finch, remember I'm a newbie too, so don't entirely trust my judgment! I use the EEE cream as a precoat for shellawax, it has abrasives in it that are very fine, so saves a bit of sanding, removing sanding marks pretty effectively straight from around 400grit. I use abranet as a sandpaper, it's awesome stuff, lasts ages and goes up to 600 grit (I think) but works better in one orientation - it's sort of woven, so use the top fibres running along the axis of your project for best effect.

Apparently the EEE can be used before and after on shellawax, and after many other polishes to cutback and shine them. I like the stuff, but when it arrived i needed to remix it, as it had separated a bit after being stored somewhere in the summer heat. Check their web page out for further details, Aussie style - http://www.ubeaut.com.au/ubhome.htm

Sheptonphil, I love you! I'll annoy my wife by buying a bottle of that before the week is out! :)

Nic.
 
Lovely pens! I like the purse pen myself.

I turn lots of pens and at the moment have the christmas orders coming through.....
I went to a certain woodworking show last weekend and saw some complete horrors of pens.... on the display stands, and for sale... with high prices too!
Couldn't quite believe they had the guts to show them to people!
So don't beat yourself up over the tiny little things..... just enjoy!!!
 
Lovely selection of pens with equally great finish im not a lover of the Ca finish because of the following
The stink of the glue even though it does make a nice shine the fumes are horrible and why cover a nice lump of timber in plastic spoiling the natural flow of grain I find that hut crystal in liquid form is very successful I obtain it from turners retreat also the two colour bar grey and brown do equally as good another favourite of mine is speed eze from record power all can be obtained from flea bay but I must say I like the variety of shapes sizes and timbers you used well done =D> =D>
Regards
Bill
 
Great job on the pens considering that they are your first ones. You will find that if you use any wood that has a natural oil in it the best thing to do is wipe it over with some cellulose thinners then apply the finish. I quite often use the BLO/CA method on mine as on this one.
ExecutiveSierraPen4.jpg
 
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