My first workbench build-W.I.P.-Updated

[JJ1]

Hi,

I'm just about to make a start on my first homemade workbech and I would really appreciate it if I could tap into the expertize and experience of other forum members if I get stuck or have any questions.
Would it be acceptable to perhaps post a few photos as I go along and ask for any advice in this thread, rather than start a new topic every time I had a question?
I've already spent hours reading previous threads on the subject of benches, vices, etc and have already picked up lots of useful information from those.
I'm dying to get started but already have a few questions before I can begin.

 

[RobinBHM]

Im sure if you keep posting progress pics on this thread, you will gather quite a following, esp on such a popular topic.

Just dont include a sharpening station

 

[Phil Pascoe]

... or have anything to do with a scroll saw...

 

[JJ1]

On the subject of sharpening......................

Only kidding!!!

 

[RobinBHM]

Of course Scroll saws.......most topical!

In fact miss out the workbench completely, just do a combined scroll saw / sharpening progress thread.

 

[JJ1]

Unfortunately I don't have a workshop or anything similar but have to make the most of a south facing balcony on my flat.
Up until now I've been making do with a couple of Black and Decker Workmate's side by side. One with an MFT top on, the other serves as a router table.
As I'm getting more involved with woodworking I'm starting to encounter the limitations of the workmate's, especially with regard to clamping and as a surface to support work for planing.

I came across a big and heavy table the other day for very little money and thought it would be an ideal starting point from which to construct a workbench. The table top measures 1600mm long x 897mm wide and is 36mm thick. The legs are 75mm square and are attached to the table top supporting rails with a pair of M8 bolts on each leg. The table appears rock solid and is very heavy, weighing in at 118 Ibs (top and legs, excluding bolts.
The table's length is perfect for my working space, but I shall have to cut the width down to 600mm.

The following images show the table.

Firstly, would anyone have any idea please what type of wood the table is made from?



1)The table top appears to have a slight bow lengthways and dips by up to 1mm in the center. Is it possible to un-bow the table top by flipping it over and applying some heavy weight to it for a few days or perhaps by attaching some more substantial rails (is that the correct term) to the underside? Or, will it be necessary to plane both sides until it's flat?


2) I would like to add some extra thickness, weight and mass to the table top and was planning on gluing the table top on top of two 18mm sheets of MRMDF, giving me a 72mm top. Will this be ok and will the 36mm of MRMDF give the top extra strength and help to prevent further bowing? I also plan on edging the table top all around with the wood that's cut off when reducing the width.


If anyone can offer any advice and/or suggestions on the above questions that would be a big help. Thank you.

 

[carlb40]

Looks kind of like beech to me.

 

[JJ1]

Thanks Carl.

 

[AndyT]

Hi JJ1. This looks like a very practical approach to getting a first bench.

For flattening the top I think planing is the best option.

I think one weakness is those leg joints - they won't survive long.
Ideally you'd join the legs to thick rails and then re-fix your thickened up flat top. But you could get a big improvement just by screwing rails and diagonal braces onto the legs.

Do keep posting and discussing the options!

PS I agree it could be beech or maybe birch. Is it in the Ikea catalogue?

 

[Bluekingfisher]

It looks like its made from a far eastern hardwood, rather than beech?

 

[AndyT]

Another quick thought on a very easy way to get a flatter top. Glue your MDF over the existing top, using a gap filling glue such as Gripfil so it is supported by the table but not bent to match it. (There is no special advantage in having the hardwood table top as your visible working surface.)
One extra layer of MDF would make a big difference. You could add a second if you really want, though a very thick bench reduces the effective size of any clamps you use to hold work down to it.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Hevea - rubber wood.

 

[Zeddedhed]

You could always add a couple of extra rails (?) across the bench under the table top for extra support while you're at it. (Running front to back).
It may be a good idea to connect the legs with rails and stretchers as well.
I'm not sure if that's the correct name for the pieces but I hope you know what I mean.

 

[JJ1]

Thanks guys for all the great help so far and the identification of the wood. I should have mentioned, but forgot, that the tabletop had a sticker underneath saying Made In Malaysia, definitely ties in nicely with the Rubberwood id.

Thanks Andy and Zeddedhed for your suggestions about strengthening the legs and joints. Makes a lot of sense and that will be the next job after sorting out the bench top. Good idea about glueing some MDF on top of the existing wood. I shall give that some thought and decide on which way to proceed.

 

[JJ1]

I decided to have a go at planing the top to remove the bow. I consider myself almost a complete novice with a hand plane and it's only over the last six months or so that I've learnt how to fettle an old plane and sharpen a blade. I've built up a small collection of secondhand planes now and I've even treated myself to A Veritas Low Angle Jack plane recently, which I love. Nevertheless, the idea of flattening such a large surface was very intimidating. My limited planing experience extends to dimensioning 18mm MDF edges whilst making smaller bits and pieces. I almost decided against attempting it and was tempted to use the router surfacing method. I don't have the correct cutter and it would have meant splashing out £25-£50 on a new one, an expense I could do with out at the moment.
Anyway, with plane irons freshly sharpened, I set to work.

I began by using the Low Angle Jack, then had a try with the wooden plane. I went at it a little too heavy handed I think and suffered from quite a lot of tearout. A lesson learnt.

Tearout aside, I was making progress and the bow in the table top appeared to be diminishing, slowly but surely.

My latest purchase for the grand sum of £2 was an old and rusty Stanley No. 4 1/2.

I sharpened the blade and cleaned it up a little.

...and gave that a whirl. It was an absolute joy to use and I kind of got into a rhythm and made a little more progress. I was thoroughly enjoying the planing by this stage and getting a little more confident.

I managed to get the worst of the bow out and called it a day.




Other commitments meant a break from the task for a couple of days.




Back to it and I decided to remove the remaining, thick, heavy varnish on both sides of the table top with a belt sander and a 40 grit belt.

My cheap and cheerful Parkside (Lidl) sander worked flawlessly and quickly made short work of the varnish removal.

I sharpened my Stanley 4 1/2 and set to work flattening the top a little more. This was coming along nicely and I couldn't believe just how well a rusty old £2 plane could perform. The blade appeared to take a really good edge and just seemed to go on and on with no noticeable dulling. My planing enjoyment has increased tenfold since using this particular plane.

The top is now acceptably flat and has been cut down to the appropriate width. There's still a few small areas of tearout from my initial attempt, but I'm not too concerned. It is a workbench top after all and will soon get lots more imperfections from use.

 

[JJ1]

Before I could continue I had to decide which vice I was going to use. Initially I was tempted by the Veritas Large Front Vice (the quick release one would have been preferred but was way out of my budget). The lesser price tag of the non-quick release version at £90 was still a little more than I could comfortably afford so I decided to consider other alternatives.
I stumbled across an old Record No. 53 vice for a fair price and settled on that. The quick release will be a welcome addition, as will the large clamping capacity.

The vice was a little greasy, but cleaned up nicely. I may, or may not, give it a coat of paint prior to fitting.

Whilst researching what vice to buy. I focused on it having as large a clamping capacity as possible, preferably a quick release too and being of an overall size that my 550mm wide bench would accommodate.
Being a complete and utter doughnut :roll: I forgot one important consideration. My working space (balcony) is very narrow, at just a little over 3 1/2 feet wide. Whilst I calculated the ideal bench size for my working space, the size of vice, vice jaw thickness and even vice handle protrusion I forgot to take into account one very important consideration. The vice is one hell of a lot bigger when actually open :roll: :shock: leaving me not a huge amount of room to actually squeeze past the open vice . I think I'll just about get away with it, but if intend working with the vice at it's fully open capacity regularly, I'll need to watch I don't eat too many cream cakes if I'm to be able to actually get past it from one end of the bench to the other :lol:

 

[AndyT]

Well that's all coming along nicely!

I think you will need some extra wood on the legs quite soon, to balance the weight of that big old hunk of cast iron! Just plain studding timber screwed onto the legs will do - you don't need to be cutting joints yet.

 

[JJ1]

That'll be the next step Andy. I'm just in the process of teaching myself the basics of Sketch Up at the moment in order to try out a few different options with regard to leg positioning and adding extra supports. I have a few ideas but once I've drawn up a plan perhaps you will be good enough to let me know if you think they'll work ok.

 

[Wizard9999]

My latest purchase for the grand sum of £2 was an old and rusty Stanley No. 4 1/2.

I sharpened the blade and cleaned it up a little.

...and gave that a whirl. It was an absolute joy to use and I kind of got into a rhythm and made a little more progress. I was thoroughly enjoying the planing by this stage and getting a little more confident.

JJ1

As a fellow novice, very impressed with the work so far on the bench. But to be honest, even more impressed with your £2 plane, it looks really good now you have cleaned it up and is clearly serving you well.

Wizard9999.

 

[JJ1]

Thanks Wizard.
The plane certainly is a real joy to use and it's performance certainly exceeded my expectations.
The wooden plane, in one of the images above, was also purchased a couple of weeks ago and cost just 50 pence. I'm really enjoying using that one too and it works a treat.