My first plane restoration

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Replacement handles for a coping saw. Trouble is I fancy one of those Titanium ones from Knew.
http://www.knewconcepts.com/
What does a Holtzapffel offset handle look like. I like your 2 rings on the ferrule, I have seen them on your screwdriver handle. I saw the nice handles on Matthew's WH site and thought if he is getting someone to copy... Mine are not for sale, although I have turned hundres of oak and Am Black Walnut handles for a kitchen manufacturer and oak cup feet for a dealer.
 
Back on planes for a second, look at the advert that just appeared in my browser:

sb3p.gif


"Intellilevel"...? WHAT??? :mrgreen:
 
Mike Wingate":24th014l said:
Replacement handles for a coping saw. Trouble is I fancy one of those Titanium ones from Knew.
http://www.knewconcepts.com/
What does a Holtzapffel offset handle look like. I like your 2 rings on the ferrule, I have seen them on your screwdriver handle. I saw the nice handles on Matthew's WH site and thought if he is getting someone to copy... Mine are not for sale, although I have turned hundres of oak and Am Black Walnut handles for a kitchen manufacturer and oak cup feet for a dealer.

My favourite eliptical Holtzapffel handle is on my giant screwdriver.....

DSC_0221.JPG


DSC_0223.JPG


DSC_0224.JPG


Gorgeous isn't it!

I won't tell you what it cost me...you'd cry! :mrgreen:

Jim
 
^ Nice paint tin opener-slash-crowbar!!! :p

Mike Wingate":n3mqolpv said:
Why would I buy one of those when I have a Stanley Fibre board Plane?
Ummm... perhaps it'll make more sense if you read the previous page.

The point is... you wouldn't. ;)
 
I love my Parao Plane Master. So versatile, plane, rebate plane (sash fillister0 and all the other jobs it will do. A bit light for paperweight, even with pack of blades and the fence. Box and instructions. A piece of history.
 
Mike Wingate":1dqjpv0d said:
Work in progress and a couple on the 4 and 4 1/2, both with Smoothcut Japanese laminated blades and QS chipbreakers.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p244 ... 010827.jpg

Some file handles in the process of being polished. Walnut with copper piping ferrules.
Two Iwasaki rasps .
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p244 ... 010828.jpg

Top work there Mike... Am I right in thinking that Bubinga is the same timber that is used on the Veritas Dovetail Saw? As I've been wanting to make replacement handles for my Stanley no.4?

Cheers _Dan.
 
Yes, it is Bubinga for the Veritas Dovetail saws. In the U.K. it is sometimes called Bubinga (African Rosewood). Nice idea. I have made a few bass guitar bodies with it. My latest plank has wild twisted grain. I have 2 plane handles marked out, drilled and ready for sawing and shaping. The wild grain may add to the shape.
 
Great photos of the production progression there Mike! =D>

It certainly is a beautiful wood!

What do you do for jigging the bore hole....that is the difficult bit in my experience....your technique advice would be gratefully received

Jim
 
jimi43":2vi24zfm said:
It certainly is a beautiful wood!

If you can get hold of figured Bubinga, Jim, it's even nicer than the plain stuff. Mike Wenzloff used it when he made me this dovetail and matching cross cut saw - the wood is quite stunning and I'm not sure that the photos do it justice

Wensloffs-1.jpg


Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Prep all timber. Mark the holes by pushing a dowel through the hole in the tote. Take all other measurements and data from that line. Drill 2 sizes of holes on the profile of the tote. Bandsaw to shape. Rasp to shape (Iwasaki rasps) Det blank into machine vice on pillar drill. Drill 7/16" hole for brass scre in the top handle with a forstner bit. Replace drill with a 6mm lip and spur, drill halfway. Reverse handle in machine vice (table square and perp and horiz all 3 axis) Drill either a large hole to suit stud and or 6mm to meet other 6mm hole. Line original centre line with a try square on the vice. Enlarge 6mm hole to 7mm with a longer drill from both ends. Drill the forward screw/stud hole. To the router.
A question for you Jimi. How do you do the brass ring on your front handles? I have seen similiar on Philip Marcou planes.
 
Hi Mike

As I mentioned...those were not made by me...but our dear friend and genius...Tom Lie Nielsen!

Looking at the construction, I would say that a brass bar in a metal lathe...form a lip internally setting a recess but cross shaving and then drill centre hole and part the disc and repeat for the next one. I suspect they may mould theirs but I may be wrong.

A more simple way of doing it would be to part brass discs from rod and then glue to the base of the knob.

I take it you are talking about the cocobolo ones?

Jim
 
Mike...that is absolutely stunning!!

It would be interesting to know what the aggregate cost was...the reason I ask is that I am willing to bet that your souped up "Stanley" would give the top boys a run for their money!

Really really impressed mate...bravo indeed! =D> =D> =D>

Jim
 
Mike Wingate":x4tzyfig said:
Next batch of Bubinga rear handles/totes on their way. The jig holding the handle was made to hold the handles on the router table whilst rounding over the edges. It doubles for rasping and sanding the handles at the bench.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p244 ... 010835.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p244 ... 010836.jpg
Absolutely gorgeous job!

I was just wondering... are you making these for other people? ;)

Just in case my subtle hint is too subtle... DO YOU HAVE ANY LEFT THAT I CAN BUY, PLEASE? :D)
 
Cost of tool. £25 on ebay ic p&p
New blade and chipbreaker, £24. If I was doing it again I would get another Rom Cosman combo, although the Quangsheng is really good/great/brilliant/super value.
Bits of wood for handle and tote, probably £2.50 the pair.
polish and wax. £1.
Paint. £4.
Abrasives and autosol. £1.
Labour, experience, tools and equipment... priceless
Quangsheng No.3 £80.
Against £58 plus time. I have had the satisfaction of bringing back a plane into useful life. I hope that I will get 20 years out of it.
My advice, buy a Quangsheng, The Workshop Heaven ones are really nice, others are not so sophisticated, eg the adjustment handle is a twisted bit of steel. Or if you have the money a Clifton or L-N. I used a Clifton this weekend, so heavy and accurate (did not like the rear tote) The L-N's are terrific also, but both are such a price. I could not justify the cost of buying one. The Stanley Records are good value.
I saw and handled a No.1 Quangsheng at Westonbirt Treefest this weekend. Lovely but a bit light for a paperweight. I am improving my old stock of planes to cheap 21Century tools, it keeps me happy and I can compare and contrast tem to ones of my colleages and mates, as well as use them.
 
[[ EDIT: I JUST REALISED THAT MIKE WAS REPLYING TO JIMI, NOT ME :oops: ]]

Sorry Mike, perhaps I wasn't too clear. So I'll stop beating about the bush:

I wasn't referring to the planes themselves. Do you or would you make some of these beautiful knobs and handles for the good people of UKW? Or do you just make them for your own restoration projects? It's just that you looked like you had a few 'spare'. :?:

Please don't think for a second that I'm trying to blag a freebie, or get something for cheaper than it's actually worth. I just think some people who appreciate these things might like to pay a fair price for what is obviously a beautiful piece of workmanship. It may be decades before I could make something like them myself, but I'd sure as hell like to use them!! :) =D>

Labour, experience, tools and equipment... priceless

INDEED!
 
I did send you an email Alan.
It read something like this.
If you are in no hurry, what do you want, what timbers, can you send
templates, how much are you prepared to pay knowing what rosewood ones from
India/China cost at Axminster, polished/unpolished, holes drilled. You name
it.
I have made things for others in the past. Humdreds of handles for a custom kitchen manufacturer, feet for a dealer, electric guitars and basses. If the price is right and you are not in a hurry. I go back to school on monday, so i shall be busier. Must go to Clarks and get some new school shoes.
 
Mike Wingate":1dczcu59 said:
I did send you an email Alan.
It read something like this.
If you are in no hurry, what do you want, what timbers, can you send
templates, how much are you prepared to pay knowing what rosewood ones from
India/China cost at Axminster, polished/unpolished, holes drilled. You name
it.
I have made things for others in the past. Humdreds of handles for a custom kitchen manufacturer, feet for a dealer, electric guitars and basses. If the price is right and you are not in a hurry. I go back to school on monday, so i shall be busier. Must go to Clarks and get some new school shoes.
Sorry Mike, I didn't see the email until just now. Thanks.

I perhaps (definitely) naively thought you had a few "spare" ones kicking about. That was a rather daft thing to think, and might remind me not to make silly posts when I'm drunk. Maybe. ;)

Your handles are beautiful and obviously take a massive amount of time and skill and experience to make. You should charge a good price for your talent and I don't think I could afford or justify buying any of them at this time. :cry:

I'll just stick to buying scabby old planes for cheap prices and refurbishing them in my own special way. Apologies for wasting your time and thanks for the offer!

Maybe if I come across an otherwise perfect smoothing plane with a cocobolo handle and no knob, I'll speak to you about a matching knob in the future.

[DID I SUCK UP ENOUGH THERE? :oops: ]
 

Latest posts

Back
Top