Moving granite worktop

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Just one minor point to be aware of just in case. There are sometimes screws under the worktops used to level up the granite and stop it sinking into the silicone too far, just so you know in case you hit something hard with the saw. I personally would look at your own kitchen layout and cut the granite as Mike says, if that's an option.
I've fitted hundreds of kitchens including reusing granite tops but only ever lifted off, cleaned and replaced under new units, not an easy task and no substitute for several strong helpers imo.
 
That sounds a brilliant idea. On the outside of the worktop, not the inside of the hole?
Surely it has to be the outside, so as to offer the support required & transferring any loads from one side of the cut out to the other side. If using wood I would consider channel each side the cross bracing with planks.
 
Ajb beat me to it! Ive had to remove a couple of stone tops to make openings bigger for range cookers etc. My weapons of choice were a multitool to carefully cut between worktop and cupboard, a few scrapers of varying stiffness and a couple of wedges for when you get it opening up..... just go slow and dont force anything. Heat build up is the enemy too, so jeep that multitool moving, dont hang around in one spot.
This cabinet and worktop went from 800mm to 700mm after I'd been at it
 

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Just one minor point to be aware of just in case. There are sometimes screws under the worktops used to level up the granite and stop it sinking into the silicone too far, just so you know in case you hit something hard with the saw. I personally would look at your own kitchen layout and cut the granite as Mike says, if that's an option.
I've fitted hundreds of kitchens including reusing granite tops but only ever lifted off, cleaned and replaced under new units, not an easy task and no substitute for several strong helpers imo.
It is frustrating - kitchen is a slightly odd shape and this one is almost a perfect fit. I will post a picture of the end result when we go for in in a month or two. If the worktop is OSB, you will know it all went horribly wrong!
 
if paying to move it ain't in the budget, is paying to replace it (if it cracks) not there as well??

Granite is HEAVY- there's a reason suppliers typically turn up with lots of help!

I wish you well!

Eric in the colonies!
Thanks! We will have plenty of lifters, just need the luck to go with it. No money for a replacement granite piece - option 1 is not break it, option 2 epoxy the bits back together, option 3 a piece of painted OSB until we can find a chunk of laminate second hand. I crossing my fingers for option 1!

Could you silkaflex some steel box sections across the sink openings, then remove once it's in its new home?
I really like these ideas for increasing the stiffness. Intuitively they feel like they should improve the odds a lot, though I know there will still be a risk. Interestingly I have not come across them elsewhere when reading suggestions on moving granite (apart from the carrying on the edge). Either there is a terrible flaw with them, or ukw is a lot more thinking than the rest of the internet!
 
When new, the stone tops are fragile, but fairly stable. Often sink cutouts have a cross of stone still in there and the fitters cut through it once it is in position.
Once the tops are fitted, the cabinet might sink a touch, or the previous owner may have knocked it a few times or a few hot pans may have sat on it etc, so you cant be such it isnt weaker..... plus, if it can break, it'll probably break, called sod's law 😆

It can be done
 
I moved a granite countertop 1800mmx600mm twice, from the laundry room to the garage and vice versa, using my wheeled workbench and a helper.
I put several pieces of foam in between to avoid scratches on the countertop.
 

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I doubt most homes will have a clear run on a trolley from kitchen to van & then van to kitchen - steps, doorways etc get in the way - and no trolley will get the slab into the van - many bodies seems the only sensible solution to me
The other problem I see would be if there are any granite upstands at the back of the worktop - they are long & narrow - very easy to break- and these likely need to be removed to get the worktops off. When our kitchen was updated the granite upstands when removed had large lumps of silicon at regular intervals on the back to fix them in place - far more than the worktops which stay in place due to their weight
 
I doubt most homes will have a clear run on a trolley from kitchen to van & then van to kitchen - steps, doorways etc get in the way - and no trolley will get the slab into the van - many bodies seems the only sensible solution to me
The other problem I see would be if there are any granite upstands at the back of the worktop - they are long & narrow - very easy to break- and these likely need to be removed to get the worktops off. When our kitchen was updated the granite upstands when removed had large lumps of silicon at regular intervals on the back to fix them in place - far more than the worktops which stay in place due to their weight
I hope plenty of people with suction cups will do the trick. The upstands are also a bit of a problem. They are thinner and so even more breakable. At least it doesn't matter nearly so much if they get smashed.
 
I hope plenty of people with suction cups will do the trick. The upstands are also a bit of a problem. They are thinner and so even more breakable. At least it doesn't matter nearly so much if they get smashed.
Re upstands, you want a coupke of long scrapers, one flexible, one stiff, a hacksaw blade and a stanley.... make sure you cut away any silicone beads on the surfaces, then use the flexi scraper to work from one end carefully pushing downwards through any silicon blobs, stiff scraper if required, hacksaw if its harder....


Re suction cups, please do not rely on them.
If its actual granite, with the tiny fissures, you might loose suction suddenly and suction cups dont always stay on, they sometimes give out even on glass.... lifting straps are helpful
 
So - stage 1 went pretty well. Worktops are safely removed and sat in the back garden. In the end I bought suction cups, but didn't trust them so we just went for lifting by hand, with a well disciplined team. The ones with cut outs had metal reinforcing bars inserted underneath, so perhaps made it safer. One of those frustrating things - you don't know if you reached 20 or 99% of the breaking force!

Time for stage 2. I need to make a few small cuts to get them to fit. Anyone had good / bad experiences?

Option 1: Angle grinder with diamond disc from underside. Slow and a bit messy, but cheap. Provided the cuts are good to a few mm it will be hidden by silicone when fitted.

Option 2: Hire a cut off saw. Possibly a bit neater if it goes well, more scope to go wrong spectacularly!

Option 3: Wet cut circular saw. None of the hire places near me seem to offer small ones, but this keeps cropping up on internet searches. GMC 1250w Handheld Wet Stone Cutter 110mm 240v
Good reviews, but you never know if they are real!

Whatever happens, I don't want to go down the American youtuber route of squirting a hosepipe near a regular circular saw!
 
So - stage 1 went pretty well. Worktops are safely removed and sat in the back garden. In the end I bought suction cups, but didn't trust them so we just went for lifting by hand, with a well disciplined team. The ones with cut outs had metal reinforcing bars inserted underneath, so perhaps made it safer. One of those frustrating things - you don't know if you reached 20 or 99% of the breaking force!

Time for stage 2. I need to make a few small cuts to get them to fit. Anyone had good / bad experiences?

Option 1: Angle grinder with diamond disc from underside. Slow and a bit messy, but cheap. Provided the cuts are good to a few mm it will be hidden by silicone when fitted.

Option 2: Hire a cut off saw. Possibly a bit neater if it goes well, more scope to go wrong spectacularly!

Option 3: Wet cut circular saw. None of the hire places near me seem to offer small ones, but this keeps cropping up on internet searches. GMC 1250w Handheld Wet Stone Cutter 110mm 240v
Good reviews, but you never know if they are real!

Whatever happens, I don't want to go down the American youtuber route of squirting a hosepipe near a regular circular saw!

I successfully cut very hard porcelain tile using a diamond blade in my tracksaw, cooled with a garden sprayer (the kind you use for weedkiller or fence treating) and hooked up to a wet vacuum to ensure any rogue water was kept away from the electrics.

The results were super clean and chip free cuts, worth a try for grantite.
 
I successfully cut very hard porcelain tile using a diamond blade in my tracksaw, cooled with a garden sprayer (the kind you use for weedkiller or fence treating) and hooked up to a wet vacuum to ensure any rogue water was kept away from the electrics.

The results were super clean and chip free cuts, worth a try for grantite.
Tempting! Just spraying the blade rather than having it flooding everywhere?
 
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