Mounting Titan (Scheppach/Zipper) Planer Thicknesser Upside Down

[sams93]

Hello,

I have a Titan Planer Thicknesser which currently sits on the floor of my VERY small workshop/shed. I don't use it that often, when I do I put it on my workbench to use it. It is akward to pick up as it is a bit heavy, and I dont like that I have to pick it up by the tables. I've been trying to come up with a storage solution for it, I thought about a pull out 'drawer' mount in a unit, but then I wouldn't have room to safely stand by the side to use it and would always be reaching over it, it is also heavy so I had concerns around balance in that configuration. The latest idea I have had is to mount it upside down on a 'flip-top' style unit. I would put my table saw on top of it when the planer is upside down (which would be 99% of the time), and then when I want to use the planer I would move the table saw out of the way and then flip the top over so the planer is the right way up.

It definitely is not the ideal solution, but given the space constraints I have I am thinking that this might be the best solution for my situation.

I was wondering whether anyone had mounted one of these on a flip top or upside down in any other configuration at all, and how they had got on with it. (Or if anyone else can think of anything I should consider about the idea of it being sat upside down for 99% of the time).

Thanks in advance!!

Sam

 

[Myfordman]

One time I had a lunch box type thicknesser on a flip over stand that fitted under the bench when not in use. I used gas springs to semi balance the weight. With your TS on the other side this might not be needed.
As with any planer, the tables are NOT handles and should not be used as such to maintain accuracy

 

[sams93]

I usually take my table saw outside the workshop to use it as the shop is small and I need room around the saw to manoeuvre panels etc, so wouldn’t be mounted to the top. I would need to think about counterweight etc. how did you mount the gas struts?

 

[Myfordman]

mount the gas spring ideally to exert most force where the turning moment is greatest for best balancing effect

 

[Jameshow]

If you brought a pair of flange bearings you could mount the PT and the TS on a piece of 18mm ply with a 12mm rod running though the ply and into the bearings.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22218084...ar=521020682669&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
A couple bolts and wing nuts to hold it in position.

 

[sams93]

If you brought a pair of flange bearings you could mount the PT and the TS on a piece of 18mm ply with a 12mm rod running though the ply and into the bearings.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22218084...ar=521020682669&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
A couple bolts and wing nuts to hold it in position.

I like the idea of the bearing & associated rod being internal, it looks like I could do that with such a set of bearings (other units I’ve looked at have the rod simply protruding through a hole on the plywood side of the unit.

R.e the idea of a 12mm rod running through the ply, are you suggesting running a 12mm rod through the ‘table’ piece or the sides of the unit? If I were to run 12mm through the table piece it would only leave 6mm. Also I have no idea how I’d make such a hole. I was thinking of some kind of ‘sandwich’ construction for the table which would allow a steel bar to run through the middle of two 18mm or 12mm ply pieces acting as the tables.

 

[mikej460]

I like the idea of the bearing & associated rod being internal, it looks like I could do that with such a set of bearings (other units I’ve looked at have the rod simply protruding through a hole on the plywood side of the unit.

R.e the idea of a 12mm rod running through the ply, are you suggesting running a 12mm rod through the ‘table’ piece or the sides of the unit? If I were to run 12mm through the table piece it would only leave 6mm. Also I have no idea how I’d make such a hole. I was thinking of some kind of ‘sandwich’ construction for the table which would allow a steel bar to run through the middle of two 18mm or 12mm ply pieces acting as the tables.

You may be able to modify this design by @DBT85 DBT85s Workshop - Moved in and now time to fit it out

 

[sometimewoodworker]

The pivot is being vastly over thought, not that they won’t work, I’m sure that the all will, but they are introducing far more complexity than is needed and introducing wear restance for the top to be spun millions of times when it likely to be in the 10s to hundreds only.

I have a reversible top that has a 12” Makita SCMS on one side and nothing on the other so about 40Kg and reversing is not a challenge, it is easy. If there were another tool on the reverse it would be trivial. Certainly gas struts may be able to make it even easier but that introduces a level of complexity in design that I personally even at my age don’t need


The pivots are 2 coach bolts the locking points are another 4 bolts (but 2 would be more than enough) this is now 10 years old there is no sign of wear. Note there is a washer (possibly 2 I don’t remember it’s 10 years since I put it together ) between the the side pieces on each side. the pivot points are offset in the table so the table top and SCMS are at the same position.

 

[Jameshow]

I like the idea of the bearing & associated rod being internal, it looks like I could do that with such a set of bearings (other units I’ve looked at have the rod simply protruding through a hole on the plywood side of the unit.

R.e the idea of a 12mm rod running through the ply, are you suggesting running a 12mm rod through the ‘table’ piece or the sides of the unit? If I were to run 12mm through the table piece it would only leave 6mm. Also I have no idea how I’d make such a hole. I was thinking of some kind of ‘sandwich’ construction for the table which would allow a steel bar to run through the middle of two 18mm or 12mm ply pieces acting as the tables.

Yes through the middle of the 36mm thick plywood.

Sometimewoodworker design looks good.

 

[sams93]

I like the idea of the bearing & associated rod being internal, it looks like I could do that with such a set of bearings (other units I’ve looked at have the rod simply protruding through a hole on the plywood side of the unit.

R.e the idea of a 12mm rod running through the ply, are you suggesting running a 12mm rod through the ‘table’ piece or the sides of the unit? If I were to run 12mm through the table piece it would only leave 6mm. Also I have no idea how I’d make such a hole. I was thinking of some kind of ‘sandwich’ construction for the table which would allow a steel bar to run through the middle of two 18mm or 12mm ply pieces acting as the tables.

The pivot is being vastly over thought, not that they won’t work, I’m sure that the all will, but they are introducing far more complexity than is needed and introducing wear restance for the top to be spun millions of times when it likely to be in the 10s to hundreds only.

I have a reversible top that has a 12” Makita SCMS on one side and nothing on the other so about 40Kg and reversing is not a challenge, it is easy. If there were another tool on the reverse it would be trivial. Certainly gas struts may be able to make it even easier but that introduces a level of complexity in design that I personally even at my age don’t need


The pivots are 2 coach bolts the locking points are another 4 bolts (but 2 would be more than enough) this is now 10 years old there is no sign of wear. Note there is a washer (possibly 2 I don’t remember it’s 10 years since I put it together ) between the the side pieces on each side. the pivot points are offset in the table so the table top and SCMS are at the same position.

View attachment 137720View attachment 137721

That is really helpful to see - so to lock it in place you simply insert the 4 the coach bolts at the front and back of the unit?

 

[harryc]

Lots of these flip top designs on You Tube.
Take your pick.

 

[sams93]

I think i was mostly interested as to whether there was a reason that the machine itself could not be inverted for prolonged periods. Nobody seems to have mentioned any concerns around this, so I will go on to research a sensible design that would work for my situation.

I have looked at a couple of the online flip table designs, but all of the ones so far have the locking mechanisms protruding out outside of the table. I will keep looking to see if there are any designs where this isn't the case, or come up with a way of reversing the existing concepts so that the unit profile is maintained.

 

[accipiter]

I am going to be making a couple of flip-top units some time soon. One for my TPT125 thicknesser and another for my old Tyme SL750... I have limited room in my workshop also: 11ft X 7ft 6" floor area. Maybe also another unit for a mitre/cross-cut saw.

There are many different flip-tops on YouTube. Some won't fit in with my needs but a couple will... I just need to adapt the designs to fit my needs. I am looking at the workunits being in the centre of the space, connected together, and on castors so I can push to any wall so making some free space. Tops need to swivel/flip but also slide back and forth to lock/support in to doors and back. Combined tops approx 40/42" wide... 5ft in length - table saw at one end making about 7ft total length.

I'll find the links to a couple I'm considering and PM them to you... or post here in the thread.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

That is really helpful to see - so to lock it in place you simply insert the 4 the coach bolts at the front and back of the unit?

Yes that’s correct, though as I mentioned 2 would be enough and it would be easy to use captive locking pins (the kind used on doors) from inside if you don’t have easy access to the outside. Though only 1 is required 2 make it solid and 4 monolithic.

I just used the easy bullet proof method as I always have access and the coach bolts are cheap enough here, I didn’t mention but the locking bolts never get fastened just pushed into position.

 

[sams93]

Yes that’s correct, though as I mentioned 2 would be enough and it would be easy to use captive locking pins (the kind used on doors) from inside if you don’t have easy access to the outside. Though only 1 is required 2 make it solid and 4 monolithic.

I just used the easy bullet proof method as I always have access and the coach bolts are cheap enough here, I didn’t mention but the locking bolts never get fastened just pushed into position.

Do you have a photo or a link to an example of the 'captive locking pins' that you mention? thanks

 

[swisstony]

Just adding my bit. I am like you , space is a premium so built this from plans from Fishers Shop. The beauty of the design is that all the onboard power is contained so you only have the one cable coming out from the unit and then when not in use can be coiled up. It is tricky getting the balance right and the clearance but works like a charm. Will be placing my belt/disc sander underneath shortly .

 

[sams93]

Just adding my bit. I am like you , space is a premium so built this from plans from Fishers Shop. The beauty of the design is that all the onboard power is contained so you only have the one cable coming out from the unit and then when not in use can be coiled up. It is tricky getting the balance right and the clearance but works like a charm. Will be placing my belt/disc sander underneath shortly .

Thanks for this, it looks great! I like how you have made a drawer space in the top as well (although I imagine it's use is limited by the fact it has to be turned upside down every now and again!)

I can see your locking system for when the planer is stowed upside down, how do you secure it when it is in the correct position as shown in the photo, or is it secure enough just resting on the top like shown?

I need to think about how to internalise the locking system as best possible.

Thanks

 

[swisstony]

Thanks for this, it looks great! I like how you have made a drawer space in the top as well (although I imagine it's use is limited by the fact it has to be turned upside down every now and again!)

I can see your locking system for when the planer is stowed upside down, how do you secure it when it is in the correct position as shown in the photo, or is it secure enough just resting on the top like shown?

I need to think about how to internalise the locking system as best possible.

Thanks

The drawer space in the top is actually a fake drawer front as it covers where the extension is. It is held on by rare earth magnets so I can gain access to the plugs if need be. The locking system is same either side. So those spring clips/latches are either side. So one is for the top tool and when rotated the second clip ( which is inverted if that makes sense ) secures the other tool. I will try to find some better photos which may help

 

[swisstony]

The first photo you can see is from the left hand side when the planer is at the top and you can see the latch not engaged. But in the second photo I have attached below you will see the other side which is latched. So flip it over and the other side rests on the cut out and gets the first latch. It all makes sense in the plan.

 

[sams93]

Ahh yes I see, and you find the single clamp to be sufficient? I am wondering if I would be able to use the same system but with the clamps on the inside of the unit (obviously I would need to make a cut out in the top to allow passage past the clamp when being flipped).

R.e the drawer, I am thinking that I could use a false front like you have and then use the space to store a length of 50mm ducting and associated bits which I use when using the machine - they wouldn't care about being turned upside down or jiggle about too much.