Mould and humidity

[MarkAW]

I've noticed that a lot of my timber in the workshop (a single car size, single skin brick garage, only the ceiling and metal door are insulated) has gotten mouldy. Mainly the MDF and plywood. So some of my jigs, french cleat tool wall and timber supply. I know it's the humidity that's the problem as I can feel paper stored n there is no longer crisp. Also a light sawdust over everything probably doesn't help.

I have 2 sources of damp : wet bicycles stored back in there, but mostly penetrating damp that I've tried to rectify with a tanking slurry, but it's just bust through that. I really need to remedy from outside (in neighbours garden) but haven't the time or funds to sort that out yet.
I had kept a small heater in there for when we get in the single digit temperatures, but for the past few days that's been commandeered for the house whilst waiting on a plumber to fix the boiler.

I am disappointed, but my tools are ok, machines are waxed and hand tools kept in cabinets.

I have 2 questions:
Can I save any timber somehow, or is it best to get rid?
Any advice on getting a dehumidifier?

 

[Fitzroy]

Sorry to hear of your timber woes, that's a pain! If you do go the dehumidifier route you'll need to sort out any big drafts else you are trying to dehumidify Worcestershire!

The other thing is keeping your timber in well ventilated conditions, if there is no air movement around your sheet goods then that will also not help. We all tends to stack sheets nice and close to the wall for space reasons, the area behind the sheets will be cold so any moisture you generate being in the area will condense in these cold spots.

 

[pgrbff]

If you choose to get a dehumidifier, make sure you get one that works at low temperatures. A standard dehumidifier, I think its workings are similar to a fridge, will struggle to remove water from cold air. MDF tends to go a bit furry when it gets damp unless it is water resistant, but I imagine a reasonable-quality plywood will be OK.

 

[kingkiki]

Hi mark, if you want any information on the tanking/waterproofing side I can help. I trained as a plasterer/render from school before switching to joinery.

The key to tanking for a proper seal is couple things.

If bricks are painted then they need scrabbling back first.

Most importantly you need to grind a 45degree channel where the floor meets the wall with a 9 inch grinder that you fill with tanking fillet. ( that is your weakest point for damp.

Tank up to 1.2m and the floor aswell

Then afterthat try to avoid breaking the tanking with fixings.

My garage was bad when I moved in and damp. Then first summer I tanked reroofed it and framed it all. Now it’s bone dry. Always worth going belt and braces with it then never have problems later down the line.

Thanks Adam

 

[MarkAW]

Interesting. Mine is just like that, though I didn't do the floor (no problem there) it's the wall where the soil outside is above the damp proof course (Neighbour's patio) causing penetrating damp. Though I've found after a few months it is blistering and white crystals forming inside (around 2 ft height). The optimal solution is to dig away the soil outside and tank externally. Build a second layer of engineering bricks to protect the tanking membrane and backfill with gravel. But that involves a lot of logistics, time and money I don't have right now.

This was taken 2 years ago. It's a lot more blistered now


Anyway, that's my plan to fix it once and for all, but for now I need an interim solution to help prevent /clean up the mould build up on many of my surfaces.

After what @pgrbff says (thanks). I've done a little research and found there's two types of dehumidifier. Compressor and desiccant. The desiccant types work better than the compressor types in single digit temps.
I'll probably get one of those for now.

 

[MarkAW]

@Fitzroy thanks to you too. It's pretty well draft free. Though the sheets are stacked against the wall without the damp problem. I think those together are alright, it's the external faces of the outer sheets, but also noticed on a piece of sawn beech on the shelves. It appears to be the dust gives it a hold to start, and I assume the glue in MDF feeds it as it seems to flourish there

 

[Fitzroy]

@Fitzroy thanks to you too. It's pretty well draft free. Though the sheets are stacked against the wall without the damp problem. I think those together are alright, it's the external faces of the outer sheets, but also noticed on a piece of sawn beech on the shelves. It appears to be the dust gives it a hold to start, and I assume the glue in MDF feeds it as it seems to flourish there

We have recently found an issue in our wardrobe where the shoes in the drawer at the base of the wardrobe have some mould on them, also a few pieces of clothing have some spots. The room is our main bedroom and the only other humidity issue is we have condensation on the single glazed windows in the winter. The only thing we can think of is that the air in these areas are very static, the shoes are ones worn perhaps a few times a year and the clothes are the set that is not worn as I will one day fit back in to them! Anyhow the story is really just an indication that in very static conditions with minimum excess of humidity mould can take hold.

 

[kingkiki]

Hi mark,

All waterproofing can be dealt with internally if approached right. Iv done multiple cellars in my time and they were all bone dry in the end, obviously if you have the luxury of the outside being exposed before back filling then can do it that way. But you can 100% sort it out internally without the thought resting it can only be done from next door.

Looking at your picture it looks alittle light did you do both coats? (1 vertical 1 horizontal) ? It should look almost like render after both coats not far off smooth. Your floor to wall will also need doing especially if it’s retaining earth above dpm.

I know as you say you’re not ready to deal with it currently, but yes don’t think your only option is the external route. It can be solved internally

When you get round to it feel free to drop me a message if you need any help.

Thanks

Adam

 

[MikeJhn]

Your answer is an efficient extract system controlled by a Humidistat.

 

[thetyreman]

increase airflow as well if possible