Mould and humidity

[MarkAW]

I've noticed that a lot of my timber in the workshop (a single car size, single skin brick garage, only the ceiling and metal door are insulated) has gotten mouldy. Mainly the MDF and plywood. So some of my jigs, french cleat tool wall and timber supply. I know it's the humidity that's the problem as I can feel paper stored n there is no longer crisp. Also a light sawdust over everything probably doesn't help.

I have 2 sources of damp : wet bicycles stored back in there, but mostly penetrating damp that I've tried to rectify with a tanking slurry, but it's just bust through that. I really need to remedy from outside (in neighbours garden) but haven't the time or funds to sort that out yet.
I had kept a small heater in there for when we get in the single digit temperatures, but for the past few days that's been commandeered for the house whilst waiting on a plumber to fix the boiler.

I am disappointed, but my tools are ok, machines are waxed and hand tools kept in cabinets.

I have 2 questions:
Can I save any timber somehow, or is it best to get rid?
Any advice on getting a dehumidifier?

 

[Fitzroy]

Sorry to hear of your timber woes, that's a pain! If you do go the dehumidifier route you'll need to sort out any big drafts else you are trying to dehumidify Worcestershire!

The other thing is keeping your timber in well ventilated conditions, if there is no air movement around your sheet goods then that will also not help. We all tends to stack sheets nice and close to the wall for space reasons, the area behind the sheets will be cold so any moisture you generate being in the area will condense in these cold spots.

 

[pgrbff]

If you choose to get a dehumidifier, make sure you get one that works at low temperatures. A standard dehumidifier, I think its workings are similar to a fridge, will struggle to remove water from cold air. MDF tends to go a bit furry when it gets damp unless it is water resistant, but I imagine a reasonable-quality plywood will be OK.

 

[kingkiki]

Hi mark, if you want any information on the tanking/waterproofing side I can help. I trained as a plasterer/render from school before switching to joinery.

The key to tanking for a proper seal is couple things.

If bricks are painted then they need scrabbling back first.

Most importantly you need to grind a 45degree channel where the floor meets the wall with a 9 inch grinder that you fill with tanking fillet. ( that is your weakest point for damp.

Tank up to 1.2m and the floor aswell

Then afterthat try to avoid breaking the tanking with fixings.

My garage was bad when I moved in and damp. Then first summer I tanked reroofed it and framed it all. Now it’s bone dry. Always worth going belt and braces with it then never have problems later down the line.

Thanks Adam