Mortiser Elec fault

[quintain]

**** all
I attach a bunch of pics.
Can this mortiser be updated and run from 1 phase 13 A socket.
It has to date run from a 13A socket but the original on/off box has broken some contacts.
I bought ot 2nd hand about 20+years ago and it was converted to a 13A supply, I have only ever used it with 13A plug and socket
It will start and run when connected to a 13A socket but it was not switching off by the use of the onboard "Red button"
Can anyone advise me please.
BTW I do not know much about electronics but I am a careful & safe worker.

 

[Amplidyne]

If the motor runs, you have a good start. (Pun not intended)
The "stop" buttons, both the one on the starter itself (assuming it has buttons) are normally closed, and are in series with the coil. The start button in normally open and in series as well. The "hold on" contact, is across the start button. There's also an overload contact in series. They vary on how exactly this is physically done. So it sounds as if the button is stuck somehow, or it's not wired in.

When you push the start, it energises the coil, and the hold in contact closes across the start button. When you want it to stop, you press the stop button which opens the coil circuit.

"Some broken off contacts" sounds ominous. They're quite easy to make inoperable.


I assume you have a meter. Use it on the ohms setting to check the continuity of the circuits.


I must say, as always, unplug it and check that it's isolated before doing anything. And watch that capacitor, they can store charge.

 

[Spectric]

Do you want to keep it looking original ? If not then the best solution is to just buy a new direct online starter (DOL) and replace the original but ensure the overload is correct for your motor.

 

[Amplidyne]

If the motor runs, you have a good start. (Pun not intended)
The "stop" buttons, both the one on the starter itself (assuming it has buttons) are normally closed, and are in series with the coil. The start button in normally open and in series as well. The "hold on" contact, is across the start button. There's also an overload contact in series. They vary on how exactly this is physically done. So it sounds as if the button is stuck somehow, or it's not wired in.

When you push the start, it energises the coil, and the hold in contact closes across the start button. When you want it to stop, you press the stop button which opens the coil circuit.

"Some broken off contacts" sounds ominous. They're quite easy to make inoperable.


I assume you have a meter. Use it on the ohms setting to check the continuity of the circuits.


I must say, as always, unplug it and check that it's isolated before doing anything. And watch that capacitor, they can store charge.

That's by far the best option.

OP you want a unit with a 230V AC coil.

All the decent ones I've come across have three phase overloads. Basically you wire it so the motor load goes through all three in series. It shows you in the instructions assuming it's new.

 

[Dabop]

I'm not seeing the 'red button' anywhere- is it on the motor itself??- because if so thats probably an old red thermal overload cutout reset button, not the off button...

I am also seeing what might be old VIR cables in there- in which case, that REALLY should also be replaced (in pic 4, looped in front of the power cable on the left of the control box), plus generally the wirings quite a mess...

 

[Dabop]

And can you take a clear pic of the writing on the 'metal box' sitting on the timber- that appears to be your capacitor!!! and I haven't seen that style used in decades- if it is, its probably so dried out, god only knows what value is at (and the two terminals on top are live whenever its plugged in- there should be a cover on them)
Looking at the wiring on the 'control box' ie top open box in pic 4 again- its hard to tell exactly whats happening there from the picture- but it 'looks' as if there are no switches inline at all, and someone has 'jerryrigged' it to run whenever it is plugged in and switched on- in which case its running correctly 'as wired' (but obviously not safe like that)