Startrite 18-s-5. 3 phase dilemma

[Ttrees]

Hopefully you can find it on google, tried but doesn't seem easy.
Bob's PDF is on a google document and titled .... Induction_motors_Issue 3.pdf
You might possibly find it on some engineering forums rather than a competitor woodworking forum.


It might clear things up if you whip the cover off the box mounted on the side of the motor, (two screws) and take a piccy. (likely to be sawdust, get paintbrush or vaccum handy)
I won't post pictures as it would only confuse matters!

All the best
Tom

 

[woodieallen]

Remember KISS. KISS is your friend. Been there. Got the T-shirt. Just go and get a Transwave rotary converter. Stop fiddling about. Just make sure it's connected up internally as it came out of the factory. Life is too short mucking about finding single phase motors...with the right fixing points etc etc Yada Yada Yada.

KISS

 

[Ttrees]

WHAT WAS THAT YOU SAID? ...SORRY I CAN'T HEAR YOU WAIT A MINUTE ...
aah that's better, sorry just knocking off the slave motor running for no good reason.

 

[Chris_Pallet]

I convinced me mate to buy a old vintage planer. Didn't realise 3 phase.
Looked at all the options to make single phase 240v.

Turned out cheapest and easiest was to just change the motor, luckily another mate had a spare one, but loads of the bay too.

Works perfectly now

Good luck

 

[2121marty]

I convinced me mate to buy a old vintage planer. Didn't realise 3 phase.
Looked at all the options to make single phase 240v.

Turned out cheapest and easiest was to just change the motor, luckily another mate had a spare one, but loads of the bay too.

Works perfectly now

Good luck

Seems there’s complexity and need for a Sparkie to keep the original motor and spec, it’ll work out cheaper to swap motor I feel, and I can do it myself.
I’ll whip the old one out to get correct spec, no doubt it’s an imperial 5/8 so I’ll call motors direct, it’s foot mounted so shouldn’t be difficult to get a suitable replacement.
Thanks for all help and suggestions but given original owner has messed with wiring and a VDF requires more skills to hook up than I posses a 240v replacement is the safest and cost effective option.

 

[DRC]

I have not seen anyone post the SPLIT PHASE road for running a 3PH motor on Single PH. It's simple & economical and all you need is a capacitor connected into the new connections (tons of wiring diagrams out there for 3PH to S PH ) of the 3PH motor there is a simple calculation for the size of the capacitor, roughly 70mfd per KW of power at 240V is 70/10 will be 7 mfd.
If the motor was originally overrated in power output which they often are, the loss of power which is roughly one-third of total output will not affect the running of the saw.

 

[Spectric]

With a new motor you then just buy a new pulley with a taperlock to suit the new motor shaft and job done.

 

[Ttrees]

Seems there’s complexity and need for a Sparkie to keep the original motor and spec, it’ll work out cheaper to swap motor I feel, and I can do it myself.
I’ll whip the old one out to get correct spec, no doubt it’s an imperial 5/8 so I’ll call motors direct, it’s foot mounted so shouldn’t be difficult to get a suitable replacement.
Thanks for all help and suggestions but given original owner has messed with wiring and a VDF requires more skills to hook up than I posses a 240v replacement is the safest and cost effective option.

Seven wires involved although, those two earths is a bit of a squeeze to get into that wee terminal
(good practice to stack both those wires along with another short earth bolted to cabinet/box, and connect the single up instead of stripping threads in the unit)

Just get the parameters correct!
Do not touch these wires without the unit being unplugged for some time!
No plugs inbetween motor and VFD

Switches for the smaller terminals are simple also, these are safe to handle.
A mechanical action toggle, flip or latching switch involves only two wires
(two wire control)
A separate start and stop push button involves another pair of wires inbetween
(three wire control)

Just thought I'd mention, as you were making the easiest part sound difficult to me.
Not many wires involved for a bandsaw or tablesaw as you can see.
If on a tight budget Bob's writings surely opens up a world of opportunities for again.
Say you need soft starting in future, or whatever.

All the best
Tom

 

[JimmyStartrite]

No Startrites were dual voltage, not even the American models
Inverters will make your workshop seem like a haunted house
You should be able to pick up a 1ph motor and DOL relatively cheap these days, just make sure the rpm is similar and has the same shaft diameter, it will be 5/8", 16mm or 19mm, the motor plate has various cut outs to take a myriad of foot mounted motors

 

[Ttrees]

No Startrites were dual voltage, not even the American models
Inverters will make your workshop seem like a haunted house
You should be able to pick up a 1ph motor and DOL relatively cheap these days, just make sure the rpm is similar and has the same shaft diameter, it will be 5/8", 16mm or 19mm, the motor plate has various cut outs to take a myriad of foot mounted motors

No sure what you mean by above comment, as that's a Leroy Somer motor from a 275 tablesaw,
Maybe you're referring to those Startrite bandsaws specifically, but not the rebadged Centauro's.

Thankfully the only times the lights ever flickered was when I had a pot hooked up to my 24" bandsaw with 3 horse motor, running off a huanyang VFD rated @ 2.2kw.
It doesn't have that problem otherwise, nor does the TS ripping iroko at full depth.
Things only get a bit ghostly when I start the single phase pillar drill, and that's even with loose belts!
Never has the cable on either machine got warm to the touch, and the machines have a household plug on the end.

Once I blew a fuse after the first week of using the bandsaw in the new place,
I was surprised to see it was running from only a 5 amp in the extension cable
It was likely the pot which caused the fuse to go, as I've tripped the unit a few times needing to do a hard reset afterwards, before I removed it as I had no need for it really.

 

[2121marty]

No Startrites were dual voltage, not even the American models
Inverters will make your workshop seem like a haunted house
You should be able to pick up a 1ph motor and DOL relatively cheap these days, just make sure the rpm is similar and has the same shaft diameter, it will be 5/8", 16mm or 19mm, the motor plate has various cut outs to take a myriad of foot mounted motors

Many thanks, this is the route I will go down, do I need a cap start/cap run motor?

 

[Johnwa]

I'd leave it alone and get an electrician who is used to working with machinery, NOT a house basher!. You're going to hurt yourself

 

[swb58]

This is on a 14-s-5 that I've just brought home. Does all the advice given above apply to this one? I'm getting an electrician to look at but I'd like to have some understanding of the options too.
Hope the pictures come out, thanks.

 

[guineafowl21]

This is on a 14-s-5 that I've just brought home. Does all the advice given above apply to this one? I'm getting an electrician to look at but I'd like to have some understanding of the options too.
Hope the pictures come out, thanks.
View attachment 131549View attachment 131550

Yes, it’s a dual voltage motor so can be run from single phase via a standard VFD. You also have a (quite expensive) DC brake, which wouldn’t be needed in that case.

 

[swb58]

That's good news, better than I could have hoped for.
Thanks for replying.