Mitre saw safety advice?

[gidon]

I have a new SCMS and although I've used a chop saw way back and a cheap B&Q jobby for a bit I don't have a lot of experience using them.
I was a little surprised that the manual instructs you not to have your hands on the table at all - which would mean always using the hold down clamp. Although I would use the hold down clamp mostly, I can't really imagine this is what you all do all the time - it also makes it tricky to bring the blade down to the line nudging the piece accordingly for accurate cuts.
I know a certain amount of common sense prevails, but would appreciate your comments on safe practice.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[Steve Maskery]

Gidon,
I hold it down and keep my fingers out of the way. I can still count to ten.
I've made a cut-off fence which prevents the use of the hold-down. Pity really, as the hold-down is quite good, I use it on my bench.

I suspect they are just covering their backs.

Have you got it set up properly now?

Cheers
Steve

 

[Argee]

The advantage with a sliding CMS is that you can run the blade along the cut line without powering up in the majority of situations (just release the vertical stop lever) to make sure you're OK first. Having done that, you can then clamp down and cut with confidence.

Where a clamp is probably vital is when cutting stock with an overhang which exceeds the amount of stock left on the table after the cut. If this offcut is not supported, as soon as the cut is complete, the outboard piece will pivot upwards, into the guard and probably the spinning blade. This is a situation to be avoided, so beware of just clamping down one side and forgetting about the other - easily done!

Just like a tablesaw, SCM saws are subject to kicking back if there is movement of the piece during a cut, or if the offcut is small enough to get jammed between the blade and the fence once free. This is a situation where you might want to creep up on the cut, to avoid pieces that, although small, are large enough to get jammed as described.

The kickback, because of the way the blade rotates, can do some surprising things, so it's best to "rehearse" each cut and check for risks before committing yourself. One thing is fairly certain - if it doesn't feel right or safe, then it isn't!

That said, enjoy your new saw.

Ray.

 

[Losos]

Gidon,
Last winter I was using my SCMS to cut a lot of wood, a good deal of it was for my wood burning stove.

My manual also says use the clamp & keep hands off the table, but this is the supplier making sure no one will sue him. Had I done that I would've frozen to death in my workshop .

Yes, I did a lot of the things that people above warn you against & they are right 'tho I have managed to keep all my digits

On a serious note I would warn you to be especially careful when cutting planks which have twist, cup, or other deformaties. On occasion I have found that with these the kerf can 'close' up as you move the saw 'thru the wood & this can cause nasty things to happen.

 

[gidon]

OK - thanks chaps. I was using it some more at the weekend and sometimes I couldn't even clamp the workpiece if I wanted to! I saw some clipe on FWW.com and the chap was holding the workpiece against the fence with his fingers hooked around the end of the fence. This seemed quite good practice in case of anything unexpected happening.
Anyway thanks for the warnings and recs.
Steve - I think I have it setup ok now thanks. It's still floating around the workshop without a home. And I need to build something to cater for longer stops than provided with the machine. But happy with it ...
Cheers
Gidon

 

[Lee Brubaker]

A SCMS's cutting action is no different than that of a radial arm saw, namely if the material is pressed tight to the fence, the saw blade's cutting action will press it even tighter. I have never used a hold down on either my RAS or SCMS & have NEVER had a kick back on either. The one aspect in using a SCMS is that it uses a universal motor(screamer) & is in close proximity to your head. ALWAYS use ear protectors because once your hearing is damaged it is damaged FOREVER.

Lee

 

[Little Ern]

I own a non-slider CMS and can only be classed as a novice with it.
I sometimes use the supplied clamp but mostly don't.
I've had a few scary moments but now go through a set routine for each cut. I got a bit carried away with how brilliant the saw was until I was cutting the end off a piece of 25x18. I cut to the line and then raised the still spinning blade which picked up the off-cut which whistled round the blade, inside the guard, and fired it over my shoulder!
When cutting small pieces off the end of a batten I now let the blade come to rest in the down position before raising it. It's a pain waiting for the blade to stop but has prevented a repeat performance of flying wood.

 

[Paul Chapman]

I have a Scheppach tkg 260i non-sliding mitre saw. It was bought for me as an unexpected present. I'm not sure I would have chosen it but having used it, I'm really pleased with it. Everything on it works really well and it has a lovely, quiet induction motor. However, the work-holding clamps are an optional extra, which I think is very poor customer service, particularly when the instruction manual says that when cutting aluminium or plastic they must always be used (good job I don't use it for that). Furthermore, the design of the saw is such that it would not be possible to use something simple like a G-cramp to hold the work. I'll probably make up some sort of clamping arrangement myself, but I think in general mitre saw manufacturers do us no favours at all when it comes to effective ways of safely holding the work.

Paul

 

[Losos]

L.E.
Yes, that's just one of the things that happened to me too, 'tho in my case it went out the back somehow :?

 

[devonwoody]

I can recall the forum member from Exeter ( who now lives in Australia) saying he lost a finger holding a piece of timber to the fence. The timber moved during the cut and trapped his digit between fence and wood.

 

[gidon]

Thanks all. I think letting the blade stop is key. It's only a few seconds on the Bosch so not too hard.
DW - yikes!
Cheers
Gidon

 

[Barry Burgess]

Since I built a mitre station to support the timber on both sides I have had far fewer problems with unsupported timber and movement after the cut

 

[WellsWood]

Neat job Barry, hope you don't mind if i nick it. Where d'you get the sliding stop from? Does it come as a kit with the T-slot?

 

[Barry Burgess]

The stop is from Brimarc. The track is standard 3/4" T track. It extends out to 2 metres

The right hand side also folds out

Hope this helps
Barry

 

[WellsWood]

Thanks Barry, just the job. Found it on the Brimarc website, looks great but can't seem to find a supplier, can you suggest one ?

Mark

 

[Barry Burgess]

Mark - I got mine direct but if you call them they will sort it out through your nearest reseller.
Barry

 

[WellsWood]

Ok cheers. Never thought of calling them #-o

 

[gidon]

Very neat Barry!
Cheers
Gidon