I've never used a sliding mitre saw before, but I've just bought one. Looking for safety/operating advice.

[TheUnicorn]

I have one of those 10 Million Dollar Stick things, I generally avoid gadgets but can recommend this, it keeps your fingers out of the way when cutting small pieces.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/f...-Sz4H1Bfm5YWNirq4TJfXgP-uz6jGtVY-J9XFoUhX0LBF

they look good, last time I was looking for one of those (at least a year ago) they seemed to be only available in the states. I knocked up something similar from scraps instead

 

[Mrs C]

I have one of those 10 Million Dollar Stick things, I generally avoid gadgets but can recommend this, it keeps your fingers out of the way when cutting small pieces.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/f...-Sz4H1Bfm5YWNirq4TJfXgP-uz6jGtVY-J9XFoUhX0LBF

Beat me to it - for the sake of £17 just buy one! You would spend that much in cleaning products mopping up the blood when either you or the mitre saw get it wrong.

 

[ILikeGarages]

Miter saws have one serious flaw - the gap left in the fence to allow miter cuts on the bevel. Invariably you are tempted to hold a short piece of wood on the left side to trim a piece off. The piece has little support and the blade catches and the piece explodes out of the saw - hopefully not taking your fingers with it.
I urge people to forgo bevel cutting and insert a false fence and a new zero tolerance baseplate. 12 mm ply or MDF is ideal. Small pieces now have support on both sides of the blade and can be held about two inches away from the blade. MIter cutting can also be done with the piece in the vertical. 12" saws excel at this usually giving about 4" of vertical cutting height.
Another problem is dust collecting. Try and stand the saw with 360 degree access as it throws dust everywhere. Better still consider building a collection hood with extraction around it.

Thanks for this observation, definately something to be aware of...I will check my saw for just how much support I DON'T have.

I hope to use it outside but I like the idea of a collection hood...and I quite liked the white collapsible laundry basket solution in a previous reply.

Only thing I can add is that with long bits of wood, the fence and table are too short to provide proper support.

It is worth considering getting at least one (ideally two) Roller stand to support the wood. IMHO it is definitely worthwhile for anything over 1m - improves accuracy and safety.

I bought a saw stand with roller attachments at the same time. Hopefully this will help. After reading other replies and scouring the internet, I think your advice is important, as it seems the stability of the piece and it's offcut are paramount to help avoid kickback.

If the timber releases tension as you cut it can close up on the blade trapping it . To this issue I only have 1 clamp which can be fitted to the left or right (dw 708 ) one thing I’ve not seen unless I’ve missed it is when cutting at 45 deg is to make sure your blade doesn’t foul the fence . Not sure on the features of your saw but this tends to be an issue on a compound mitre cut .. I don’t wear gloves . There is a good shout above regarding using a roller stand as long lengths of timber can be difficult to control so when you make that cut always think about where the off cut is going to end up ..

Thanks..makes sense. My saw comes with two clamps and spaces on both sides for them. I will 'lose' one in the garage so I can only use one and will heed the advice.

Something worth learning in general with tools like this is to overcome the urge to grab something that is falling or moving. If you are cutting and the offcut is about to fall off the table or your tape measure has vibrated to the edge of the desk the best course of action is to release the trigger but don't move anything, just let the blade come to a stop. If bits or tools fall on the floor they can be replaced, it's not worth risking trying to reach out and grab it.

Similar thing is if someone comes and tries talking to you or get your attention. Just release, wait and then see what they want. When a power tool is on, that should be your focus until it is no longer moving.

If you've got kids you might also want to think about buying or making a shut off switch. I made a simple extension lead with an emergency stop button. If i need to turn my back for a second I hit the switch so no one can come up and turn the tool on. Also very useful for things like tablesaws where your hands might be guiding the wood and it's quicker to stand on a stop button than try and reach for the off switch if things start going wrong.

Kitchen training everywhere..."A falling knife has no handle".
Same principle applies here, thanks.

Don't have a table saw (yet), but like the idea in this application as it needs manual switch off. Mitre saw is less of a problem as it is triggered, but with other people around I can see the benefit here too.

This :- https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis36.pdf

Handy publication from good old hse...Never knew they had guides so thanks for the heads-up.

I have one of those 10 Million Dollar Stick things, I generally avoid gadgets but can recommend this, it keeps your fingers out of the way when cutting small pieces.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/f...-Sz4H1Bfm5YWNirq4TJfXgP-uz6jGtVY-J9XFoUhX0LBF

Seems like a great way to keep me away from the bitey bit. Will certainly take a further look into these.




Thanks for all the input, it really is appreciated.
Still not made a single cut yet. I want to make some adjustments (e.g the fence on both sides are not aligned correctly) and be free to follow all of the above advice.

My first 'project' will be a structure (steps) that my old (possibly arthritic) cat can use to get up onto the outside furniture. It won't be pretty, it won't be good, but it will function, and be made from whatever I find in my garage. I expect nothing but wood offcuts, 90 degree cuts, and lots of screws!

 

[JSW]

My first 'project' will be a structure (steps) that my old (possibly arthritic) cat can use to get up onto the outside furniture. It won't be pretty, it won't be good, but it will function, and be made from whatever I find in my garage. I expect nothing but wood offcuts, 90 degree cuts, and lots of screws!

Good beginner project for the new saw, plenty of repeat cuts (I assume, without seeing a drawing) Just don't get complacent with each successive cut, treat every cut like it was life or death, and keep kids and other distractions out of the way.

one thing I’ve not seen unless I’ve missed it is when cutting at 45 deg is to make sure your blade doesn’t foul the fence

I think what @Bingy man is referring to here is a lot of mitre saws have a flip up section of fence for when you're doing beveled cuts, IE tilting the saw blade rather than pivoting, if you forget to flip the section of fence out of the way, then the saw will do it for you, permanently.

 

[recipio]

Thanks for this observation, definately something to be aware of...I will check my saw for just how much support I DON'T have.

I hope to use it outside but I like the idea of a collection hood...and I quite liked the white collapsible laundry basket solution in a previous reply.

Hoods are available commercially but are grossly overpriced. Better to find your own solution.
By inserting a zero clearance fence and baseplate the cut made by the blade becomes your reference mark. It is surprisingly helpful to be able to line the slot up with a pencil mark on the wood. For multiple lengths however nothing beats using a stop on the left side of the blade so it's worth building a ' saw station ' with a long fence. There are loads of examples on the 'tube.

 

[Lard]

I'm surprised no-one has picked up on the 'sliding' bit here.

My chop-saw doesn't slide so I can't really comment but could someone please explain how the OP should cut when using the sliding function (ie pull out then down)

 

[Lard]

Deleted duplicate post

 

[guineafowl21]

I'm surprised no-one has picked up on the 'sliding' bit here.

My chop-saw doesn't slide so I can't really comment but could someone please explain how the OP should cut when using the sliding function (ie pull out then down)

Pull out, down, then push in to cut. Opposite way to a radial arm saw, where you climb cut.

With a big piece, you can lightly score on the out stroke, making a neater cut.

 

[Niall Church]

Thanks, all good advice, I particularly like the last on bolded (by me) not to cut too small a piece.

Good point about the dust extraction. Will use outside whenever possible.

Great walkthtough for my first cuts. Will re-read before I use it. Great bolded (by me) point... No spinny, no hurty!

Thanks, but my needs/wants won't change, so I'll keep it.

Nice...I like it. Thanks for pointing this out. Easily missed by a newbie.

Nice way to test, thanks for this.

Good, sound advice, thank you.


I'm sure I will be very happy, looking forward to putting it, and me, through our paces.
May I ask why you (and others, please chip in) say I shouldn't clamp both ends?

When cutting it could bind against the blade,it's dangerous! Ket one end be free,but not that it should fall off the table,it should just release when cut with the blade! It should be in bold print not to do this! It might seem.like a logical idea,but it's not! DON'T DO IT!

 

[niemeyjt]

I think most points are covered above - my no 1 advice, and I hope your saw is suitably equipped, is to secure wood in place before a cut with clamp(s) and not your hand.