Sorry I don't have a recommendation, but have heard good things about Wealden tools, if I remember correctly, it was on this forum anyway.
I will be getting a 12" blade, and don't know what the advantage would be, for having a 10" one?...
Maybe someone more experienced will chime in, as I don't have that much experience with tablesaws.
One thing to consider, in favour of the larger blade, is that the depth of cut on the 45, becomes much reduced when the arbor is tilted.
Although I have never much used the saw for mitred cuts, and can't immediately think of a need for cutting very large mitres, that's not to say it's not important, and I'm sure someone will chime in
on an application where this is common procedure.
I don't recall bogging down my 3 phase, 3hp motor whilst ripping at 90 degrees at full depth, cutting iroko for long periods...an hour at a time, or so.
I will be getting a 12" blade when I can afford it, and need one.
These saws can actually take a 14" blade, but you can't lower it fully, as it will foul against something.
Download
now "mastering your tablesaw" on youtube for a good start, if you want to be safe.
You won't find a better free video online.
Yes somethings are a bit out of date concerning health and safety, but compared to the antics of Norm, is a lot, lot, lot less dangerous.
I won't mention who's even more careless, but if the name starts with "J" and ends with "Z", do not watch those videos, if you care for your life, and even if you did, you wouldn't learn any useful tips and tricks anyway...you have been warned!
Cosman doesn't play it safe either.
These saws are powerful indeed.
Read the tablesaw disputes on this forum (a bit like sharpening threads
) on proper procedure
There will be the word complacent somewhere, so that would be a good keyword to look up in the archives.
Some very scary stories, and accidents which you would not think could happen, like fillets harpooning like a spear amputating limbs, on the most experienced folks.
Be very cautious whom you watch on Youtube....
ALWAYS look for the flipside argument for safety, on even the most experienced woodworkers, even in the video I've mentioned for you to download.
Another youtube one to watch is Gwinnet woodworks tablesaw safety video, the longer, older one, to drive home these fundamentals.
Then read up on the threads here, so you can understand what folks are talking about better.
I'm with Jacob with the two pushstick brigade, and If I have to make another shoe style pushstick
it will be like Steve Maskery's HSE advised one.
Much longer and taller than I have seen elsewhere, which might be helpful for some applications.
I hope you have the patience to watch these video's, I've watched them a few times over.
You won't regret watching these, when you read up here on the things that can happen.
I watch absolutely everything I can get to view, even the bad videos, but I am wise to the proper procedure, just to let you know that those videos I've advised you to watch is a good start...
Learn the criticism on the Kelly's video also.
Some folk like the fence parallel for jigs, and others like the end of the fence to be a few thou away from the blade,
Its universally agreed on, that it should never be the opposite, even by a thou, is giving an accident a chance to happen.
You can shim your fence rail with some biscuit tin sheet...i.e little squares with a hole if its not right.
Use the "pick a tooth method" for table slot to blade alignment beforehand.
I hope you have a longish hand plane, a jointer, or some other system for truing stock, so your work is flat and square to register against the table and fence, if you plan on ripping.
Sorry for the rant, but it's an obligation as I see it.
Best of luck with your, new to you, tablesaw.
Regards
Tom
