Millers Falls No.2100

[rxh]

This drill turns smoothly and the chuck works well but it has two problems:

- The first problem is that the side handle is missing. I solved that by making a new one. The thread is 3/8" x 20 TPI, which is neither UNC nor UNF. I think it is one of the now obsolete US threads that tool manufacturers seemed to be fond of.

- The second problem is I can't change the speed as it appears to be stuck in "high". Please does anyone know how the speed should be changed or have any details of the mechanism? I think it must be something to do with the knurled part. Oiling and "fiddling" have had no effect so far.

 

[AndyT]

I'm guessing here but it could be like my 1980 1980-hand-drill-turns-out-surprisingly-good-t85107.html - so try twisting the big grey cylinder, which would be easier if it had knurling on.

 

[Rhyolith]

Good find! These drills are excellent, I have a No.200 here that is the same as your No.2100 only it has a ratchet on the handle.

Miller Falls No.200 by Rhyolith, on Flickr

Yes the 2-Speed mechanism on the 1980 is identical.

You rotate the knurled collar clockwise (from the perspective of using the drill) to change from high to low gear. I have not tried to take one of these apart, so cannot help there (mine works so thought I would let it be). Heres a video of the the Speed Selector being operated:

No.200 2-Speed Selector by Rhyolith, on Flickr

 

[rxh]

Thanks Andy and Rhyolith. I'll give it a good dose of WD40 and see how it is tomorrow.

 

[rxh]

I am happy to report that the WD40 and a little persuasion have done the trick. Thanks again.

 

[Rhyolith]

I have been examining the equaliser bearing on my 200... It looks like it might have a ball bearing in the end, but its hard to tell if its that or just a metal domed bit in the end.

What does yours look like rxh? (the equaliser bearing is the thing where the second pinion would be and serves the same purpose for the most part.

 

[rxh]

It is a captive ball bearing in mine.

 

[Bod]

http://lonepinetoolworks.com/my-blog/re ... o980-drill

Will reveal all the inner gubbins, of that 2 speed ring.

Bod

 

[Rhyolith]

Hmm... something is defiantly up with mine. It won't spin at all.

Millers Falls No.200 (equaliser) by Rhyolith, on Flickr

The clearance from the drive gear is around 1mm (by eye) which is far to large now I think about it. Maybe the ball bearing has been somehow crushed into its casing.

Any ideas how to get it out? I have tried pulling at it with a very powerful magnet to no avail.

 

[rxh]

Mine has also got about a 1 mm gap between ball and drive wheel, and I think the ball would only ever come into play if the wheel became worn and sloppy on its axle. Have you tried applying some penetrating oil to the ball? It seems to be retained by the end of the socket being swaged down. I can't imagine any way of removing the ball without damaging the swaging and running the risk of the ball not being retained when it is replaced.