Mid century modern table question

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Jacob

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Can anybody identify this? Doesn't have a makers mark. Very well made - extensions slide in and out perfectly. Looks a cut above the average with nice details. It's big 36" x 63" or 103" extended.
Thought I might give it a going over as per this chaps instructions, not something I've quite done before.

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No really? That's useful to know I wonder who made it! :unsure:

Well you did ask to identify it, which it is a mid century table.

Who made it is another question, you’ll probably never know for certain as so many companies were making similar items back then, all quite naff by today’s standards and largely undesirable despite being made relatively well.
 
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Not naff at all nowadays they are highly fashionable in certain quarters, even though it's the sort of stuff my mother in law used to have!

People are distancing themselves from the mahogany, teak, and other exotic hardwood furniture more and more as time goes on, whether in favour of more fashionable pieces or for ethical reasons in regards to deforestation, they don’t want to be associated with it even if it is over 50 years old.

The best thing for it would be to paint it over with some pastel paint and distress it for effect, people will eat that up.
 
A fair amount of pieces in that style were coming from Denmark, so could be a danish piece.
Guessing the top is veneered boards rather than solid?

Refinished it’ll be a nice table though to my eye looks a bit top heavy when fully extended.


Mid century is a definite trend, have seen ercol pieces I picked up for about £50 now changing hands for £500. Is nice to see as i was buying it for less than the price of chipboard let alone solid timber
 
......Guessing the top is veneered boards rather than solid?.......
Chipboard with teak lippings and veneer (?) and teak legs etc below.
Actually in terms of ethical sourced timber this sort of design uses as little as possible quality solid wood. The battens etc out of sight are all cheaper stuff.
The design is very neat and clever - I wonder if any modern makers attempt to copy this sort of stuff? I guess not - it'd be batch production.
 
I have restored my share of tables; unless there's a sticker or mark branded on, it's a guessing game which brand that table is from.

Quite frequently, unscrupulous people will remove the stuck-on (e.g. GPLAN) or nailed-on labels (e.g. Mackintosh) from recognisable pieces - on the basis that they're clearly GPLAN or Mackintosh whatever - and stick them on less valuable pieces, so they have 2x pieces of brand-name furniture. I don't believe the item in that video had a label so it's been removed at some point. There's a dark mark on the inside of your table that looks to me like it might be the glue left after a label is removed???

Anyway the only thing I'd add to that video is, I usually remove the top and, for a dining table, I can usually dismantle all the legs too. Makes life far easier. And I wouldn't have sanded the top as much as he did. Dings and nicks are part and parcel. I also generally avoid doing anything with legs unless they really need it - 90% of the time, only the tabletop needs looking at.
hope this helps, have fun.
 
People are distancing themselves from the mahogany, teak, and other exotic hardwood furniture more and more as time goes on, whether in favour of more fashionable pieces or for ethical reasons in regards to deforestation, they don’t want to be associated with it even if it is over 50 years old.

The best thing for it would be to paint it over with some pastel paint and distress it for effect, people will eat that up.
A cynic :LOL:
Nothing wrong with painting, it can be the desired design effect. :cool: Though i do wonder somtimes at the prices in these hip places. Cover a jumble sale 1950's utilitarian drawer unit in newspaper, then paint it in chalky blue, and its worth a fortune. London prices
 
A cynic :LOL:
Nothing wrong with painting, it can be the desired design effect. :cool: Though i do wonder somtimes at the prices in these hip places. Cover a jumble sale 1950's utilitarian drawer unit in newspaper, then paint it in chalky blue, and its worth a fortune. London prices
If you can't beat them, join them!
 
But hard to rationalise painting some pretty nice teak that’s in good nick.
Charles Rennie mackintosh. House for an art lover.
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If you consider what other houses were like at the time, and to cover everything in white paint(and having looked at most of it) its pretty shady a paint job. but in comparison to what was usual it was blinding.

Personally I'm not a great fan of painting, but if needs must...
 
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Charles Rennie mackintosh. House for an art lover.
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If you consider what other houses were like at the time, and to cover everything in white paint(and having looked at most of it) its pretty shady a paint job. but in comparison to what was usual it was blinding.

Personally I'm not a great fan of painting, but if needs must...

If it’s going to be painted it’s a good excuse to use some less visually interesting timber, if all that was rosewood underneath it would be a shame to my mind.
 
My father was making Danish modern furniture like that through the 60's until the brown chipboard, machine turned spindles, with plastic moldings junk became the fashion. Their small 3 to 5 person shop couldn't compete so the went into repair and refinishing for antiques. He didn't do the mitred corner to leg detail like yours. His had aprons with corner blocks and the legs were bolts on with hanger bolts. Made for a smaller shipping package He used veneered plywood or lumber core plywood with solid edging for the tops. Solid for legs and skirts. Teak, walnut, mahogany and white oak. I have a walnut waiting room chair in need of reupholstering and a prototype oak dining room chair that needs some repair and paint removed that he made. I wish I had more of it.

Pete
 
My father was making Danish modern furniture like that through the 60's until the brown chipboard, machine turned spindles, with plastic moldings junk became the fashion. Their small 3 to 5 person shop couldn't compete so the went into repair and refinishing for antiques. He didn't do the mitred corner to leg detail like yours. His had aprons with corner blocks and the legs were bolts on with hanger bolts. Made for a smaller shipping package He used veneered plywood or lumber core plywood with solid edging for the tops. Solid for legs and skirts. Teak, walnut, mahogany and white oak. I have a walnut waiting room chair in need of reupholstering and a prototype oak dining room chair that needs some repair and paint removed that he made. I wish I had more of it.

Pete
Interesting.
The mitred corner detail on mine is bolted through so the whole thing could be flat packed and easily put together. The whole design is very clever!
 
Can anybody identify this? Doesn't have a makers mark. Very well made - extensions slide in and out perfectly. Looks a cut above the average with nice details. It's big 36" x 63" or 103" extended.
Thought I might give it a going over as per this chaps instructions, not something I've quite done before.

View attachment 132114
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View attachment 132116


View attachment 132118
It's Danish if it's that well made. The British makers copied their designs but are half as valuable compared to Danish. In fact the Danish are buying some of their pieces back that were exported years ago to the UK, especially rosewood. To keep value never ever paint over wood or wood veneers unless there is a great big burn or something un-restorable. It took those trees a long time to get there so some respect for wood and you will win financially as well. A dealer would have to spend a long time stripping it if it was painted and even then the paint gets down into open grain so sanding looms! The rule in mid century is to keep value not to mention a nice looking item, keep it as original as possible and never change it so it cannot be changed back to it's original state.
 
It's Danish if it's that well made. The British makers copied their designs but are half as valuable compared to Danish. In fact the Danish are buying some of their pieces back that were exported years ago to the UK, especially rosewood. To keep value never ever paint over wood or wood veneers unless there is a great big burn or something un-restorable. It took those trees a long time to get there so some respect for wood and you will win financially as well. A dealer would have to spend a long time stripping it if it was painted and even then the paint gets down into open grain so sanding looms! The rule in mid century is to keep value not to mention a nice looking item, keep it as original as possible and never change it so it cannot be changed back to it's original state.
Nothing against paint but hadn't crossed my mind for this one!

PS talking of painted tables - I made this one recently - Formica on ply, mahogany knobs, redwood everywhere else. The design lifted from a book of trad welsh farmhouse furniture. Much heavier than Danish table above

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Can anybody identify this? Doesn't have a makers mark. Very well made - extensions slide in and out perfectly. Looks a cut above the average with nice details. It's big 36" x 63" or 103" extended.
Thought I might give it a going over as per this chaps instructions, not something I've quite done before.

View attachment 132114
View attachment 132115

View attachment 132116


View attachment 132118
Stripped sanded and now oil polishing. Is very easy except multiple applications required over a longish period. Raw linseed really brings out colour. The extending leaves different shade due to having lived under the top and getting far less wear or sunlight than the top.

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All the advice says put oil on with cloth around a weight (half brick etc). I put the cloth around a box with a lead weight in it

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Lost count of how many times I've done it but it looks very nicer every time! Several horrid scratches which I thought would need remedying have virtually disappeared.
 

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