Metal Inlay

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Dokkodo

Established Member
Joined
8 Jan 2017
Messages
306
Reaction score
24
Location
Bristol
Hello

I need to fill a long, meandering and quite 'dynamic' recess that goes across a surface im working on. I'd like to inlay it with metal ideally, it will need to be a filling and sanding back sort of thing rather than a casting and cutting in sort of thing because of the shapes involved.

There are two options I can find. One is pouring molten pewter into the recess and flushing it once set, which would be my preferred option but Im not sure whether it can be trusted to stay put.

The other is epoxy and metal powder, but I dont know that I would be able to get a true metallic effect, i watched a few videos and it seems it comes out quite dull, but perhaps experimenting with higher concentrations would be effective one it was buffed up.

Does anyone have any experience along these lines?
 
I tried epoxy and brass powder on a turning once and it just looked like a brown splodge, maybe the concentration was not enough.
I have also tried brass powder in cracks on bowls followed by CA glue, the fumes can be horrible so best to use a fan. It can be sanded to a fine grit and shines nicely
 
Yeah thats what it has looked like in videos, dull at best, im after shine.

so was that just pure dry powder and then CA on top, no mixing?
 
I'd suggest cold casting metal resin. I do this a lot when making pc/laptop keyboards, I use it to fill the letter markings on the keys and for symbols/markings on pc cases etc. I've found the best stuff to use is Water Clear from the link below. you can also get various metal powders from them. When you initially cast it it will be very dull. You wont see the metal at all. Just sand and it will come up fine. I've found that in order to get a really good result it is best to use as high a mesh number as you can get in any particular powder. I mix the resin as per the instructions with the hardener and then add the metal powder until it is almost too stiff to mix. This prevents air pockets and gives the best appearance once sanded and buffed.

Resin: - http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/resi ... resin.html

Metal Powder : - http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/resi ... al-powders


hth
 
I've never ever done anything like this, but I seem to remember reading/seeing somewhere (maybe here? can't remember) about a bloke who used soft solder (the non-flux-cored type) to highlight some narrow inlay lines. After sanding down then waxing it looked pretty neat (on the picture anyway).

This is a pretty useless post really 'cos I can remember any more details, how it was done exactly, on what, and by whom!!!!!!

But perhaps worth a quick Google/Youtube search for ideas along those lines?

AES
 
AES":1x31cigk said:
I've never ever done anything like this, but I seem to remember reading/seeing somewhere (maybe here? can't remember) about a bloke who used soft solder (the non-flux-cored type) to highlight some narrow inlay lines. After sanding down then waxing it looked pretty neat (on the picture anyway).

This is a pretty useless post really 'cos I can remember any more details, how it was done exactly, on what, and by whom!!!!!!

But perhaps worth a quick Google/Youtube search for ideas along those lines?

AES

Not a useless post - it was Monkeybiter in this thread, which has some other ideas too

silver-inlay-t72031.html

Well remembered!
 
Thanks all, I had considered solder too but as its the surface of a coffee table sort of thing I think it would be too soft. Think what I have is a bit deep in places for the CA approach.

Droogs I think your suggestion makes the most sense for the size and shape of what I need to fill, gonna give it a go!
 
Back
Top