Melamine Finish (primarily on Turnings)

[CHJ]

Just in case anyone else is interested, my experience so far as a newcomer to Chestnuts Melamine Finish.

Things I have noted:

1: Only apply just enough to coat object without surplus, not easy to judge.
2: Use Very Light Pressure on rotating objects to avoid build up streaks.
3: If build-up streaks form; DO NOT try to abrade them, with work stationary, blend them back in with moist (melamine) cloth and re burnish area with moist cloth.
4. If not happy with finish wait until fully dry (hours not minutes) and apply another thin coat.
5: Do not try and burnish with burnishing cream unless absolutely sure melamine has hardened.
EDIT:
6. Thin down the product to ease application, I am experimenting with dilution % to suit application material, subject and workshop conditions; it 'tacks' rapidly.

Does anyone else have any comments-recommendations-tricks for using this finish?

 

[PowerTool]

Hi Chas - thanks for the above.
Have been impressed with the melamine finish on some of your recent turnings and have been thinking about trying it out;your advice makes me feel more confident about giving it a go

Andrew

 

[CHJ]

Hi Chas - thanks for the above.
Have been impressed with the melamine finish on some of your recent turnings and have been thinking about trying it out;your advice makes me feel more confident about giving it a go

Andrew

I first tried the finish in order to get something that would take regular handling and be more tolerant of water splashes.
If I get it right I find that it gives enough sheen 'as is' for my preference and does not need any burnishing or waxing.
Although considerably more difficult to use than straight sealer-WoodWax22 I am leaning towards making it my norm especially for smaller items.

Main problem for me with larger items is getting consistent coverage that does not give the impression of smears if viewed in cross lighting.

Like all gloss finishes it's far more critical in exposing tool bruises or sanding scratches though.

 

[Philly]

Hi All
Sorry, I don't do much lathe work at the moment. Haven't used the lacquer on turnings, only flat work. I sprayed mine, 50 /50 with lacquer thinners. It is pretty thick (and don't even think of applying it with a brush :roll: ) and definitely needs thinning down. Terry would be the man to ask about it's best usage on the lathe (I've watched him use it at shows)

Things I've noticed....

It dries FAST.
It cures fast-2 to 3 days and any smell disappears.
It does sink down slightly as it cures.
It burnishes out really nicely. You can do this almost immediately.


I finished a guitar not too long ago and it gave me a perfect mirror finish. To achieve this I...
Applied quite a few thin coats (about 12) over a period of a few hours.
Let it dry overnight.
Using 600 grit wet and dry paper and soapy water I rubbed out the finish until it was totally matt. No shiny areas or spots left.
Then I polished it using a wet rag and a burnishing cream. This quickly restored a mirror gloss.

As I said, I've not used it on the lathe but it is a great finish once you can apply it right.
Hope this helps,
Philly

 

[Anonymous]

Now that is impressive Philly :shock: :shock:

 

[Philly]

Want some more?? :lol:

Philly

 

[CHJ]

...snip....I finished a guitar not too long ago and it gave me a perfect mirror finish. To achieve this I...
Applied quite a few thin coats (about 12) over a period of a few hours.
Let it dry overnight.
Using 600 grit wet and dry paper and soapy water I rubbed out the finish until it was totally matt. No shiny areas or spots left.
Then I polished it using a wet rag and a burnishing cream. This quickly restored a mirror gloss.
Hope this helps,
Philly

Now that that I have got to try, the wet & dry + burnishing I mean, not a hope in the other place of matching the Guitar.

Beautiful work Philly, can see Tony's fingers twitching from here and that pained look on his face.

 

[luthier49]

Hey Philly, did you make the guitar ?

Here`s what I use to burnish my instruments. Bought this from Stewart Macdonalds Guitar Shop Supply in the states.

 

[Philly]

Bob
Yeah, body from bubinga and curly maple. The neck I kinda cheated-used a maple neck I like the propfile of and spliced on a new headstock.
Came out nice (it's a copy of my main guitar, a PRS) although a little on the heavy side.
Stew Mac make some great guitar stuff! But I dare not look on their web-site. The Missus would throttle me...... :lol:
Cheers
Philly

 

[luthier49]

I`ve made a Paul Reed Smith copy myself. I even inlaid the mother of pearl bird inlays as well. I don`t have the instrument anymore, it`s gone to a good home. I finished mine with Rustins Plastic Coating applied with a brush. About six or seven coats, allowed to harden for two weeks and then rubbed flat with wet and dry. Then brought to a lovely gloss with fine and extra fine merzerna polish on the buffer. African Amazaque for the body and neck and a lightly quilted maple for the body top.

 

[Philly]

Very nice, Bob!!! =D>
Philly