Material for a plane handle/tote?

[Beanwood]

I've recently taken the plunge into planes, and purchased two old Stanleys - a 4 1/2 from this forum, and a 5 1/2 from that well know auction site.

The 4 1/2 is every bit as nice as I hoped it would be - and after a light sharpen has allowed me to experiment, practice and produce lovely shavings already.

The 5 1/2 arrived today, and I was slightly concerned with the crack on the main tote but other than that it was in fine fettle. After a few strokes, the inevitable happened - and a full split opened up.
Initially slighty miffed as I'd paid a little more for one with a handle than one without, and not wanting to spend £20+ for a new one - I now consider this an excellent mini project opportunity.

I have already downloaded a template from Lee Valley, so I know I need a roughly 4 3/4" square, 1" thick piece of wood, but I don't have much choice of stock right now. I have some Beech block (Worktop), or some bits of oak.

So - finally the I'll get to my question - Would the oak be suitable as a rear handle? Or am I better with the beech block? Or should I just wait until I can try and get hold of something more suitable - if so what would that be?

Thanks.

 

[Inspector]

Oak or beech will be fine and down the road you can make other handles/totes if you come across nicer wood and feel the urge to replace. Or you might find another plane with good wood that is otherwise damaged for parts.

Pete

 

[Bod]

Practise with the beech block, being a wood worker, gluing the 2 old bits back together should not be difficult. Care with lining up and smoothing the handle when dry, worked for me a few times.

Bod

 

[Beanwood]

Thanks Bod - yes, I've glued the original, but I'm still keen to change, as it appears to be some type of bakelite/plastic.

 

[thetyreman]

use a stable wood whatever it is, make sure it's well seasoned, I used sapele which works well and looks good, it has recently shrunk slightly after 3+ years, it's an easy fix however just remove a washer inside and tighten the beast down, hopefully this is the last season of movement. Also use a drill press if you can, I used a brace and bit but having a drill press will make things 10x easier.

nice woods to consider:

american cherry
pear
walnut
rosewood

 

[MikeG.]

Almost anything will do. Pick something you like the look of.

 

[Racers]

They are tricky things to make, I have made a few.
You will need to drill the counter bore first (11mm) then the recess in the bottom of the tote, before drilling the through hole, I have a long 6mm sharpened as a brad point bit that I use from each end of the tote.
I draw a line on the side of the blank for the through hole and line it up with a square in a machine vice, and drill with a pillar drill.

Or you can buy them from ebay tool supplyers etc.

Pete

 

[MikeG.]

It is only the hole that's an issue. The rest is a doddle.

 

[Bod]

Thanks Bod - yes, I've glued the original, but I'm still keen to change, as it appears to be some type of bakelite/plastic.

5 1/2 with plastic handles, thats unusual, what is the front knob made from?
Is this an old USA made Stanley, there was a time when "school" grade planes had non wood handles. But it's more likely that the handle has been replaced at some time.

Bod.

 

[Hornbeam]

Both the 4 1/2 and 5 1/2 Stanley planes that I bought new in about 1988 had plastic handles, All other planes have wood.
American cherry makes very nice handles I think its what Lie Neilson use
Ian

 

[lurker]

I have made a few.
I tend to make them a bit thicker and slightly oblong along the plane length axis if you see what I mean.
As others say the hole is the most difficult part.
Also ensure that the grain runs right.
Somewhere on the internet there is a useful drawing.
Someone here will know.

Edit. Google plane handle template....... it’s the lee valley one

 

[MikeG.]

........Somewhere on the internet there is a useful drawing.
Someone here will know.

Edit. Google plane handle template....... it’s the lee valley one

True, and indeed useful, but no-one makes a plane handle in isolation. They're always copying a broken one, or they have a collection of other planes. Taking a pattern off an existing handle is no more complicated than drawing around it and noting the position of each end of the holes.

 

[Beanwood]

Thanks all

The front handle appears to be wood, so I suspect the rear has been replaced.

Yes, I have the Lee Valley plan - and it indicates grain direction.

The hole does look like the trickiest part - I have a drill press, but I don't have a long enough bit at the moment. Still - no urgency - I can take as long as I need. I can try one - then try another.

It's all part of the learning.

Then last evening I realised, I won't want a mismatched front knob, so I'll have to finally get my pre-owned lathe put together and have a go at that as well.....

Oh it never ends :lol:

 

[MikeG.]

....... - I have a drill press, but I don't have a long enough bit at the moment. .....

You only need to be able to drill a little over half way. You should have something that does that pretty easily.

 

[Beanwood]

....... - I have a drill press, but I don't have a long enough bit at the moment. .....

You only need to be able to drill a little over half way. You should have something that does that pretty easily.

I admit to having missed the obvious on that one