Manmade "timber" for stud wall sole plate?
- Thread starter Rorschach
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Lons
Established Member
Rorschach":167xml4f said:
Whatever you do I'm sure many of us would be interested in pics and a work in progress as you get it done.
As an aside, a friend of mine who worked from home, many years ago removed the up 'n 'over door on his double garage, built an insulated timber frame and clad the outside with white PVC shiplap. Even with a service door built into it, from a distance it looked like a normal garage door.
Might be just me, but isn’t the answer to something easily removable.....a door?
Proper frame and draught exclusion strips and you have the ‘perfect’ solution.
I’m assuming it’s an up and over door.
Proper frame and draught exclusion strips and you have the ‘perfect’ solution.
I’m assuming it’s an up and over door.
Lons":1om9crk1 said:
Yep that's basically the idea I am going for but I want to make it as low impact as possible so I can re-instate the door when I leave.
For now though I have had an idea to improve the air sealing of the current garage door. Doing a proof of concept from scraps at the moment to see how it works. Because the door is steel I am making up some battens with weatherstripping that I can attach to the door with magnets. Might work, might not but it will cost me nothing more than a few hours of my time to try it.
Lons
Established Member
So assuming you don't need the door as you were going to block it up why not just seal it in place. It's pretty easy to do by fixing thick foam to the edge of 2"x 1" and screwing it to the door edges to form a seal against the brickwork, you can seal the bottom in the same manner but staple heavy duty polythene or DPC around the foam to form a waterproof cushion which will press tight to the floor which will stop wind blown rain though not flood water. just a few screw holes left and no mess when you want to reinstate. If you don't mind a mess just fill all around the door with expanding foam filler. 
If a single skin metal door then insulate with polystyrene and over clad with thin ply and if the lifting gear is in the way you could fix the door to the brickwork and temporarily remove the mechanism.
Cheapest solution I would think, secure and no difference in outward appearance.
If a single skin metal door then insulate with polystyrene and over clad with thin ply and if the lifting gear is in the way you could fix the door to the brickwork and temporarily remove the mechanism.
Cheapest solution I would think, secure and no difference in outward appearance.
No I do still need the access but rarely.
I need some access through maybe once a month, and I would need full access to the whole space maybe twice in the next 10 years or so.
I am hoping my current idea of sealing will do a fairly good job but be removable in a matter of a minute or so which would be great, especially since it has cost me less than a tenner.
I need some access through maybe once a month, and I would need full access to the whole space maybe twice in the next 10 years or so.
I am hoping my current idea of sealing will do a fairly good job but be removable in a matter of a minute or so which would be great, especially since it has cost me less than a tenner.
Lons
Established Member
Ah ok
Your plans have changed quite a lot from your original post where you said
Your plans have changed quite a lot from your original post where you said
Steve_Scott
Established Member
Is replacing the existing garage door with an insulated roller door not at option?
It’ll be draft free, be somewhat useful at keeping heat in and allows you to open it and close it depending if you want it blocked off or not blocked off?
It’ll be draft free, be somewhat useful at keeping heat in and allows you to open it and close it depending if you want it blocked off or not blocked off?
Lons
Established Member
I fitted one to mine, electric, insulated and it's pretty draught proof! The top is boxed and sealed, side channels have effective draught strips and the bottom a compressible rubber. Compared to my old up'n'over it's chalk and cheese despite the fact it was an insulated GRP door and I had fitted draught proof strips around all edges. Roller doors however, especially aluminium type aren't as secure as steel panel doors.
Fitted it myself without issues and it's 4.3m wide.
You can usually get around lack of headroom and space at the sides as there are options but I guess cost is the issue in your case.
Fitted it myself without issues and it's 4.3m wide.
You can usually get around lack of headroom and space at the sides as there are options but I guess cost is the issue in your case.
Yes cost is a major issue, aside from the fact I don't earn very much, it needs to be a cost effective solution. This is a temporary space, I am actively looking to move as soon as i can so I might be there for another year or another 5 years but it definitely won't be forever. Dropping £600-1000 on a nice door would be silly when I could just spend a another £20-30 a year on heating the place.
MikeG.
Established Member
Why not build a 2 x 2 wall behind the existing door. Fill it with insulation, and even the gap between the door and the timber could be filled. If you need it removable for occasional access, then build it in 2 halves held together with a couple of battens screwed across the face, and just pull it out when you need to open the main door. Nothing changes from the outside.
MikeG.":26mq3n88 said:
I did consider this a couple of years ago, the problem is that the workshop is so packed with stuff I don't think I could easily manoeuvre them out of the way and also the up and over mechanism sticks out into the interior space so It would be hard to define the edges.
(Note for the some reason the picture is showing up 90deg off axis until you click on it)
Here is my solution experiment. It's a proof of concept but might well be the final version. It's just made from some 2 x 1, some rare earth magnets and some foam sealing tape. Total cost if you had to buy everything, less than £20, I had everything in stock anyway. Painted the wood to protect it and make it less visible.
The door is steel so 4 rare earth magnets are plenty strong enough to hold the wood in place. I have done one for each edge, the top just has a strip of the tape against the threshold, if this doesn't work I will make another batten but I ran out of long pieces of 2x1 and magnets to make one now.
Total time to make (not including paint drying) about 1.5 hours. Time to remove them to be able to open the door is literally seconds. If they work then I will give them another coat of paint and see how they do long term. I will only use them over the winter, when the weather warms up I will bring them inside to stop them degrading in the sun as the door is south facing.
Here is my solution experiment. It's a proof of concept but might well be the final version. It's just made from some 2 x 1, some rare earth magnets and some foam sealing tape. Total cost if you had to buy everything, less than £20, I had everything in stock anyway. Painted the wood to protect it and make it less visible.
The door is steel so 4 rare earth magnets are plenty strong enough to hold the wood in place. I have done one for each edge, the top just has a strip of the tape against the threshold, if this doesn't work I will make another batten but I ran out of long pieces of 2x1 and magnets to make one now.
Total time to make (not including paint drying) about 1.5 hours. Time to remove them to be able to open the door is literally seconds. If they work then I will give them another coat of paint and see how they do long term. I will only use them over the winter, when the weather warms up I will bring them inside to stop them degrading in the sun as the door is south facing.
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Steve_Scott
Established Member
Lons":3qa2fv39 said:
Me too... I was going to make a timber door to replace what was there but when I costed it up it was as cheap to put an electric roller door in and it performs better and will last longer. I suspect it will add value to the house too... I now have the poshest sectional prefab garage on the street
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