Makita Tracksaw - Inaccurate Splinter Guard

[diy_badger]

Hi all,

I've had my Makita SP6000J tracksaw for a few years, more recently making cabinets that require a greater level of accuracy. Consequently, I've noticed a 1mm discrepancy between the splinter guard and the actual cut work piece. Essentially, the saw is cutting 1mm to the right of the splinter guard, leaving the material under the track 1mm too long. I've replaced the splinter guard twice, each time supporting the splinter guard the full length of the cut, however, the result is always the same. the far end of the splinter guard slowly tapers inwards by 1mm, see pic. Has anyone had this issue? What, if anything, am I doing wrong?

At the start of the cut, the splinter guard corresponds to the cut that has been made:

By the end of the cut, the cut material is 1mm wider that the position of the track/splinter guard:

Many thanks.

 

[Jamesc]

The splinter guard should be stuck on so it overlaps the edge and then cut with the saw so it is perfect. On my rails this means a few mm gap from the edge of the recess. I can also get away with moving the strip out a couple of times once it has been used and become ragged.

Have a look at Peter Millard (of this parish) on Youtube he has a video detailing this.

 

[diy_badger]

Hi,

I probably wasn’t clear in my initial post. The splinter guard has been replaced twice. Once installed, it is initialised with the first cut. However, upon using the rail and aligning the splinter guard to a cut line, the cut made by the saw does not match the position of the splinter guard.

 

[RobNichols]

Are you fitting the splinter guard such that initially it extends out further than where the saw will cut, and therefore the first cut after fitting, trims the splinter guard to the correct width?

 

[diy_badger]

Are you fitting the splinter guard such that initially it extends out further than where the saw will cut, and therefore the first cut after fitting, trims the splinter guard to the correct width?

Yes.

 

[RobNichols]

Then something is moving. All I can suggest is removing the splinter guard, giving the grove it sits in a really good clean with meths or some other gunk remover, and try again. I'd also look for play in the system as you move the saw up and down the track.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Make somethng that fits over the part of the rail that guides the saw. Three pieces of wood glued together. Slide it from one end of the rail to the other and make sure (a) it fits the rail with the same tightness all along (i.e. the "upstand" on the rail does not vary in width); (b) a mark placed on it aligned with the splinter guard at one end remains aligned with the splinter guard the full length. (i.e. the spinter guard is parallel to the upstand).

If the rail proves good, look under the saw base and confirm it is adjusted to fit snug on the rail.

Buy a cheap alternative rail (e.g. Evolution) and see if the problem appears with that.

Just like an electrician will solve a lighting problem by a process of illumination, you need to follow the same logical steps in solving your own problem.

 

[Spectric]

Just like an electrician will solve a lighting problem by a process of illumination

People in the electrical / electronic field also undertake problem solving by elimination even though often involved with providing illumination for people !!

I have the makita and not had the issue, are you using the blade that came with the saw ?

 

[HOJ]

Are you making a new cut in wider material or running along an already cut edge to clean it up, I find in that case the blade can have a tendency to deflect slightly, following the path of least resistance.

 

[Jamesc]

Have you checked that the adjusters are snugged up so the saw can't twist. It sounds like it is wobbling on the rail

 

[TRITON]

How are your cuts ? as in are they 100% straight

 

[gfisher]

Might be a daft question... are you using the optional rail clamps?

 

[Kriggi]

I have the same saw and track and have the same problem. I've made sure there is no slack in the saw on the rail but still have the same issue. I'd be interested to hear if you find a fix!

 

[Lons]

I've had the saw saw for years and it's spot on.
The Makita comes with two sections of track, is it the same if you use those separately?
Can you borrow a track from someone to try as that would suggest whether the track or the saw?

Just another thought. The splinter guard it plastic, the track aluminium and both materials react differently according to temperature which may affect accuracy. Clutching at straws but......
I also wonder what Makita state (if the do) what an accepted tolerance is?

 

[Sideways]

All the above.
To see if it's blade wobble or deflection, set the plunge depth to just a couple of mm and make a full width cut.
Think about process too. Even if the track is clamped, do you stretch to finish a cut and change the direction you are pushing the saw from ? Vertical at the start but nearer horizontal by the end ? Try standing to the side and walking the saw along the cut so your position doesn't change relative to the saw.

 

[Doug71]

Is the blade parallel to the rail? I presume you can adjust it, you can on the Festool but it is fiddly, Festool recommend a slight toe in but I reckon parallel should be fine.

Technique can make a big difference, you need to be pushing straight in line with the saw. I see loads of people using track saws right handed, it looks so awkward kind of twisting their body and gripping the saw at an angle, this can push the cut off line. It's best to use them left handed which keeps everything straight and in line, obviously this is if you are on the off cut side which we normally are. If you are for example kneeling on a sheet and the off cut is away from you then right handed.

 

[MarkAW]

I see 3 potential issues:

• The splinter guard has contracted (applied and cut in warm environment, then subsequently used in cold)
• The track tensioners are set loose (not sure that's their proper name, there's 2 knobs on the base plate that adjust how the glides sit against the track.
• The track is moving during the cut (try clamp it down)