Makita Tracksaw - Inaccurate Splinter Guard

[diy_badger]

Hi all,

I've had my Makita SP6000J tracksaw for a few years, more recently making cabinets that require a greater level of accuracy. Consequently, I've noticed a 1mm discrepancy between the splinter guard and the actual cut work piece. Essentially, the saw is cutting 1mm to the right of the splinter guard, leaving the material under the track 1mm too long. I've replaced the splinter guard twice, each time supporting the splinter guard the full length of the cut, however, the result is always the same. the far end of the splinter guard slowly tapers inwards by 1mm, see pic. Has anyone had this issue? What, if anything, am I doing wrong?

At the start of the cut, the splinter guard corresponds to the cut that has been made:

By the end of the cut, the cut material is 1mm wider that the position of the track/splinter guard:

Many thanks.

 

[Jamesc]

The splinter guard should be stuck on so it overlaps the edge and then cut with the saw so it is perfect. On my rails this means a few mm gap from the edge of the recess. I can also get away with moving the strip out a couple of times once it has been used and become ragged.

Have a look at Peter Millard (of this parish) on Youtube he has a video detailing this.

 

[diy_badger]

Hi,

I probably wasn’t clear in my initial post. The splinter guard has been replaced twice. Once installed, it is initialised with the first cut. However, upon using the rail and aligning the splinter guard to a cut line, the cut made by the saw does not match the position of the splinter guard.

 

[RobNichols]

Are you fitting the splinter guard such that initially it extends out further than where the saw will cut, and therefore the first cut after fitting, trims the splinter guard to the correct width?

 

[diy_badger]

Are you fitting the splinter guard such that initially it extends out further than where the saw will cut, and therefore the first cut after fitting, trims the splinter guard to the correct width?

Yes.

 

[RobNichols]

Then something is moving. All I can suggest is removing the splinter guard, giving the grove it sits in a really good clean with meths or some other gunk remover, and try again. I'd also look for play in the system as you move the saw up and down the track.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Make somethng that fits over the part of the rail that guides the saw. Three pieces of wood glued together. Slide it from one end of the rail to the other and make sure (a) it fits the rail with the same tightness all along (i.e. the "upstand" on the rail does not vary in width); (b) a mark placed on it aligned with the splinter guard at one end remains aligned with the splinter guard the full length. (i.e. the spinter guard is parallel to the upstand).

If the rail proves good, look under the saw base and confirm it is adjusted to fit snug on the rail.

Buy a cheap alternative rail (e.g. Evolution) and see if the problem appears with that.

Just like an electrician will solve a lighting problem by a process of illumination, you need to follow the same logical steps in solving your own problem.

 

[Spectric]

Just like an electrician will solve a lighting problem by a process of illumination

People in the electrical / electronic field also undertake problem solving by elimination even though often involved with providing illumination for people !!

I have the makita and not had the issue, are you using the blade that came with the saw ?

 

[HOJ]

Are you making a new cut in wider material or running along an already cut edge to clean it up, I find in that case the blade can have a tendency to deflect slightly, following the path of least resistance.

 

[Jamesc]

Have you checked that the adjusters are snugged up so the saw can't twist. It sounds like it is wobbling on the rail

 

[TRITON]

How are your cuts ? as in are they 100% straight