Making sideboard

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k.halai

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Hello

I'm going to be make a sideboard cabinet for my hallway to store shoes and other bits. I am planning on using MDF as I want to paint the sideboard. My question is what's the best joining method for MDF at 90° angles?

Thanks
Kish
 
Do you have a biscuit jointer ?

TBH glue isnt that good for edge joints, though screwing will help(MUST pre-drill) glue and screw isnt ideal, especially for any length of time.

Cheapest jointer looks to be the Silverline. And while its unlikely to be lamello quality, it should do the job well enough.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27640005...2KT473&hash=item405aba1f56:g:SngAAOSwIHNmA~on

Along with some long screws(40mm if in 18mm mdf), will hold it together pretty well. You can countersink the screw heads, fill with a 2 pack filler, sand and paint
 
Try to get hold of Moisture Resistant MDF, it's a bit more expensive but far superior to the normal fluffy stuff.
 
I would use dowels if you want an inexpensive option. A simple jig like these are inexpensive and very effective:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-4640000-Dowel-Master-dowel/dp/B0001P19PY/

in fact, this set is very good value too:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-4645000-Universal-Dowel-Kit/dp/B0001P19Q8/

All you need is a drill to make this work. Lots of tutorials on YouTube on how to use it effectively.
If you don't have clamps, to hold it together while the glue dries, then use screws (pre-drill, as per the message above) in combination with dowels to hold it together.

Get a good 'D4' rated glue, like the Everbuild brand - which is a very good glue for a variety of woodworking uses (incl. outdoors, for your next projects)
 
Do you have a biscuit jointer ?

TBH glue isnt that good for edge joints, though screwing will help(MUST pre-drill) glue and screw isnt ideal, especially for any length of time.

Cheapest jointer looks to be the Silverline. And while its unlikely to be lamello quality, it should do the job well enough.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27640005...2KT473&hash=item405aba1f56:g:SngAAOSwIHNmA~on

Along with some long screws(40mm if in 18mm mdf), will hold it together pretty well. You can countersink the screw heads, fill with a 2 pack filler, sand and paint
Thank you very much! I don't have a biscuit jointer. Will look into the one you provided
 
Try to get hold of Moisture Resistant MDF, it's a bit more expensive but far superior to the normal fluffy stuff.
Thanks was planning on using moisture resistant MDF, just not sure what the best method would be to paint it
 
I would use dowels if you want an inexpensive option. A simple jig like these are inexpensive and very effective:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-4640000-Dowel-Master-dowel/dp/B0001P19PY/

in fact, this set is very good value too:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-4645000-Universal-Dowel-Kit/dp/B0001P19Q8/

All you need is a drill to make this work. Lots of tutorials on YouTube on how to use it effectively.
If you don't have clamps, to hold it together while the glue dries, then use screws (pre-drill, as per the message above) in combination with dowels to hold it together.

Get a good 'D4' rated glue, like the Everbuild brand - which is a very good glue for a variety of woodworking uses (incl. outdoors, for your next projects)
Thank you for the suggestions, looks like a handy tool for dowels.
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions, so many different options hard to know which one to use. Would anyone consider pocket holes too? I've read and seen people use this method but with the end of the screw going into the middle of the MDF rather than the edge, which would mean filling and sanding
 
With regards painting mdf have a look at Peter Millards YouTube channel. He used to make painted fitted furniture for a living and has a very good video on how to paint mdf.
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions, so many different options hard to know which one to use. Would anyone consider pocket holes too? I've read and seen people use this method but with the end of the screw going into the middle of the MDF rather than the edge, which would mean filling and sanding
I have used pocket holes. It could work. You can also strategically place the pocket holes from the inside so they don't all need to be filled and sanded.
My biggest issue with the Pocket holes was that when tightening them, you need to make sure you have some good clamps, because they tend to slip out of alignment when the screw is driven it. It made me crazy, everything was 0.5mm out of alignment when I was done.
I'd recommend dowels to start with, and for your next project try something different. You'll soon learn what you like
 
I would use dowels if you want an inexpensive option. A simple jig like these are inexpensive and very effective:
These basic jigs are probably what has got dowels a bad reputation as precision is absolutely critical to get a dowel joint to close. You need perfect alignment and perfect symmetry from the jig, there have been many good threads about jointing techniques and dowels so worth a search. I started with a Dowelmax which is really good but no longer available in the UK and now also have the Jessem jig which also delivers the precision required.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/jessem-dowelling-jig-with-6-8-10-and-12mm-heads-package/
 
Dowels are a low budget method but don't forget you ideally need a set of clamps to bring the joints together.
If you could invest in a ( cheap ) biscuit joiner then you could use Lamello Clamex S 20 plates which are more than strong enough. Not exactly cheap either but clean and can be dismantled anytime.
 
A very simple and cheap edge sealer for MDF is to mix PVA with some water, to thin it down. The water help it soak in and the pva sets to provide a good base to paint on.
You can buy an mdf sealer, but its pretty much the same thing. And chances are you've already got pva.
 
I would consider confirmat screws and glue only. You need the appropriate confirmat drill bit, and ideally when drilling you ought to clamp the pieces together or at least push against a stop. They are easy and strong, and also enable you to put together and take apart several times easily if needed before the glue is applied. I would argue if using them, no need to use any additional joinery.
With regards filling screw holes - a good design for fitted style furniture is to make a Carcase then add end panels and or scribes. End panels can then be scribed into the rear wall, floor, skirting etc if necessary, whilst hiding the fact the Carcase itself is paged off the wall on shims or battens.
Then end panels can easily be stuck on with builders grip adhesive and pin nailed, which is a much nicer filling job, or screwed from the inside with appropriate length screws.
Not knowing your exact design etc makes it tricky to be fully prescriptive.
 
First..Use Rustin's MDF Sealer. Inexpensive, available in s\fix and t\station. Even accepts varnish.

Second.. Everywhere you screw into 'end grain' MDF insert a 10mm hardwood dowel 20mm from the edge of the end grain, pre-drill and pre-glue as above & drive your screw through the dowel.
 
As you'll be putting shoes away, does this mean a seat for when the shoes are put on? If so, it changes all of
the above and you will HAVE TO use wood. The seat will want to rack, so the mrmdf will fall to pieces!
 

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