Mahogany and Oak box with chessboard style inlay lid - finished in OSMO

[Rorton]

Another project thread from me - this time its a continuation from my Chessboard thread - making a box to put the chess pieces in.

Started off with some mahogany:

Resawed using the table saw

First attempt at finger joints using a jig on the cross cut sled

Fingers left slightly proud and will be sanded back later

The start of a chessboard style lid, first glue up of mahogany and oak and planed flat

Making a base - decided to use some birch ply I had, as I didn't want to attempt a floating base from hardwood - and it was going to get covered in felt anyway, so you would never know - cut to size, then a rebate cut in all the way around to fit into the sides:

Once base fitted, I added some mahogany strips to hide the edges

Chessboard lid glued together, and edged in oak

Groove then cut into the lid to accept some edging ( I made 2 as I had excess material)

Edging then added

Then glued up

A rebate then cut into the lid to fit into the top of the box

Tested the lid for fitment - quite like the raised look, and was going to just stick some oak in the gap, but that was getting carried away - so I closed the gap as planned

Lid fitted, everything given a good sanding, rounded the corners etc

Totally forgot to take picture of cutting the lid, but used the table saw for this and tried to keep the size/sequence of the finger joints the same. Finished in OSMO poly Satin - also added some brass hinges and some rare earth magnets drilled and glued into the lid and box opposite the hinges to keep it shut without spoiling the aesthetic of the box with a latch/catch - that worked quite well

And finished box along with the chessboard I made - I could have carried on, and made little compartments for each chess piece, but at the moment, I have a habit of keeping on and on, and then going to far and ruining things - so I played safe and stopped at a point I was happy with (I didn't make the chess pieces though, they were purchased online)

 

[Hornbeam]

Nice box design great fit on the joints and finish. Just a concern about allowing for wood movement between the lid panel and edging which could cause mitres to open up . Best to leave the panel floating or use veneer on a stable substrate like ply or mdf if gluing all round

 

[clogs]

very nice......
is it poss to have a photo of the router table empty.....?
ta.....
I have found those magnets of great use.....

 

[Rorton]

Nice box design great fit on the joints and finish. Just a concern about allowing for wood movement between the lid panel and edging which could cause mitres to open up . Best to leave the panel floating or use veneer on a stable substrate like ply or mdf if gluing all round

thanks. I’m still learning with the old floating vs gluing bit so any help there gratefully apreciated. I thought that as they were such small pieces that were glued together and not one solid piece for the lid that it may not be a problem.

for future when I cut those grooves would I not put any glue at all on the tongues? Would it not move and rattle? Or is it the whole assembly sitting in the box sides?

 

[Rorton]

very nice......
is it poss to have a photo of the router table empty.....?
ta.....
I have found those magnets of great use.....

sure, few here when I made it.

 

[MikeG.]

thanks. I’m still learning with the old floating vs gluing bit so any help there gratefully apreciated. I thought that as they were such small pieces that were glued together and not one solid piece for the lid that it may not be a problem.

for future when I cut those grooves would I not put any glue at all on the tongues? Would it not move and rattle? Or is it the whole assembly sitting in the box sides?

Just glue the middle inch or two of each edge. That way it won't rattle around, but can still expand and contract with seasonal humidity variations.

 

[Rorton]

Just glue the middle inch or two of each edge. That way it won't rattle around, but can still expand and contract with seasonal humidity variations.

Thanks. Still ok to glue the actual mitres so they are tight?

 

[MikeG.]

I'm talking about the panel into the slots. Make the frame as you did, but the panel within it has to "float", to an extent.