getting grooves smooth with the tools. sanding rounds them off too much
It depends on, as Chas has mentioned, which tool you're using and how you're using it.
The skew gives a very clean cut which usually needs little or no sanding ... the tool is used 'on edge' as opposed to flat, using the long point (the toe) position it on the tool rest at 90 deg to the work.
A simple arcing cut (don't just push it in) will give a fine line; to deepen/widen the groove angle the skew to the right about 5 deg from vertical... a series of arcing cuts will establish the right side of the V cut. Repeat the process angling 5 deg to the left of vertical to match the left side to the right.
The reason the 'toe' is used is to allow you to see the cutting action, if you're competent try using the heel and you'll see what I mean :wink:
If you have an old chrome vanadium screwdriver laying around, grind it into a Bill Jones style 3 point tool... or you could buy the Crown tools (or other make) and make your own handle.
The three point tool has many uses but makes grooves and lines a doddle.
Sanding: if you've gone to the bother of including fine detail on your work you need to be very careful not to obliterate it. I always suggest to students that they use the index finger as the point of contact between you, the abrasive and the wood... this give you max control and feedback. Very little pressure is needed, a light contact is always best... better to make several light passes rather than one 'heavy'. Do not allow the abrasive to 'dip' into the groove when sanding the whole.
It's been a bit long winded but I hope it's of some use.
The box: luv the round dome! The lines (grooves) are not equidistant... it does take time to get your eye in... as with everything else, the more you do the better it gets :wink:
