Live center, chucks and finishing !

[Bigbud78]

That's a grind for a spindle gouge - it probably wouldn't be so pointed on a spindle gouge section though. Don't use this on a bowl - you'll get an almighty catch.

Have I just gone too deep on the wings ? Not sure how I'm going to sort it tbh :roll: my spindle gouges are a great shape thou and really sharp lol

 

[Rhossydd]

That's a grind for a spindle gouge - it probably wouldn't be so pointed on a spindle gouge section though. Don't use this on a bowl - you'll get an almighty catch.

It looks more like a long fingernail bowl grind to me. Similar to the Ellesworth shape and the grinds Richard Raffan uses. As such they can be used on bowls, but as Phil says unwary use will result in a big catch and isn't really that recommended for novices.
Stick to the more conventional bevels with shorter wings to start bowl turning with.

 

[Bigbud78]

I'm assuming I can't get a chuck to fit my 20mm x 2 spindle that I could then use on a different machine ?

The Axminster SK114 is available to order with a 20mm x 2mm thread. I think it's possible to get replacement backplates fitted if you ever swap lathes in future, but do check with Axminster first on that. An absolutely Rolls Royce choice that will hold it's value well, but not cheap.
Toolpost's Versachuck has interchangeable backplates at a much more affordable price and you can buy one unthreaded and then get it cut to suit.

I was looking at that today, looks great ! The Record Sc4 also comes with a changeable thread so I definitely have a few options

 

[CHJ]

That's a grind for a spindle gouge - it probably wouldn't be so pointed on a spindle gouge section though. Don't use this on a bowl - you'll get an almighty catch.

Have I just gone too deep on the wings ? Not sure how I'm going to sort it tbh :roll: my spindle gouges are a great shape thou and really sharp lol

It's fully recoverable.
Yes you have swept the wings back a bit too far, especially for someone not conversant with using long grind gouges.

Looking from the top the left hand wing is the worst, but assuming you are right handed and use the gouge in a push mode it will be the right hand wing and nose that will be providing the bevel support.


Now to correct the gouge as it stands.

Unfortunately you have fallen for the classic error as a first effort, don't worry about it, I doubt very much that anyone has explained to you about dwell times between wheel and tool and the fact that they have as big if not bigger influence on final shape achieved than the jig.

When moving the tool from one side to the other the amount of time any particular area/quadrant of the tool is in contact with the wheel influences the amount of material removed.

All that has happened is that you have moved the tool too quickly past the nose area and without realising it spent a fraction of a second or so longer with the sides in contact with the wheel than the nose.

You need to DWELL longer in the nose area so that more metal is removed.

Remount the tool in the jig.
Now touch just the nose area to the wheel and Blunt the Nose by just moving a few degrees either side of centre until you have got rid of the excessive point.
Now carefully blend the blunted nose into the sides.

Don't just swing the tool through the complete arc, look at the edge in contact with the wheel and remember you are doing the shaping, the jig is only supporting the tool at the correct angle.

Don't use the left hand wing in contact with the wood until you have reground it several times and slowly worked back towards the main tool stem.

 

[Bigbud78]

Thank you for the reply, I'll try and reshape it tonight. Such a learning curve to this !

I was all pleased with myself as I had sharpened the roughing gouge and the spindle gouges and they were great. Got my blank mounted on the chuck ready to go and about to order some finishing stuffs.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I would recommend you watch this.

It's a YT about how to use a Sorby PE. I appreciate you don't have one but there is useful footage on two counts relevant to your situation. Firstly, it shows two different types of gouge grind that will give you a useful visual reference. Secondly, it shows a very useful technique to recover a single facet bevel with the wings swept back to the right amount. The technique requires you to flip the gouge over and grind a flat spot (horseshoe) on the top. You then regrind the bevel until all the flat spot is gone and that gives a visual reference to keep the steel removal uniform. It does however require you to have access to a belt sander (doesn't need to be a proedge) and an ability to hold the tool at a consistent angle (home made ply platform or similar). If you have a belt sander with an adjustable platform then that's ideal.

The "swept-back-ness" of the wings is determined by how acute the angle is when you create the horse shoe. It's a handy technique for "fixing" badly ground gouges. It's an alternative to what Chas has posted. I've found (through demonstrating it at club meets) that it really helps new turners because you can see the steel being removed as you go...once that horse shoe has gone, you're done.

 

[Bigbud78]

I would recommend you watch this.

It's a YT about how to use a Sorby PE. I appreciate you don't have one but there is useful footage on two counts relevant to your situation. Firstly, it shows two different types of gouge grind that will give you a useful visual reference. Secondly, it shows a very useful technique to recover a single facet bevel with the wings swept back to the right amount. The technique requires you to flip the gouge over and grind a flat spot (horseshoe) on the top. You then regrind the bevel until all the flat spot is gone and that gives a visual reference to keep the steel removal uniform. It does however require you to have access to a belt sander (doesn't need to be a proedge) and an ability to hold the tool at a consistent angle (home made ply platform or similar). If you have a belt sander with an adjustable platform then that's ideal.

The "swept-back-ness" of the wings is determined by how acute the angle is when you create the horse shoe. It's a handy technique for "fixing" badly ground gouges. It's an alternative to what Chas has posted. I've found (through demonstrating it at club meets) that it really helps new turners because you can see the steel being removed as you go...once that horse shoe has gone, you're done.

That pro edge looks amazing, maybe I'll pick one up if I really get into turning Does make my butchered tools look awful xD

 

[Bigbud78]

Had a go at the bottom of a bowl, now looking at it I wish I'd gone for a lidded box for it but start simple lol.
My bowl gouge still doesn't look right but it worked ok in a push cut, I'll try another session on the grinder after the weekend before I hollow out the bowl.

I realised after that I should have used some sort of spacer to bring it away from the chuck, there is a small defect near the bottom which I assume is a knot and "loose" grain near the top ?

 

[Bigbud78]

Should I leave that defect in or make the bowl shallower and take it out ?

 

[Rhossydd]

Should I leave that defect in or make the bowl shallower and take it out ?

No answers ? a tricky one.

On a technical level; Your photo isn't really clear enough to see whether the defect goes through the full thickness of the jaw socket you've cut. If it has, there's risk that it will break when it's remounted and tightened up, although an experienced turner should get away with it by being aware of the problem and taking lighter cuts, as a novice it might be better to cut round it and make the socket in sound wood.

If the 'defect' doesn't compromise the structural integrity of the socket the decision becomes an aesthetic one. Do you want that sort of figure in the bowl ? Sometimes it might add character, but to others might just be a distraction.
There's not really a right answer to that.
Let us know how you choose to proceed and show us the result.

 

[CHJ]

If you have not yet hollowed the bowl then I think that you need to reconfigure the socket mounting regardless of any defects.
The walls you have left on that socket are nowhere near thick enough to withstand the expansion pressure of the dovetail jaws for hollowing, the fact that you are new to turning makes it even more likely that the socket tenon sidewalls will just let go.
You need at least 10mm of wall thickness, more if possible, cleaning up the base and completing the curve comes after the hollowing and reverse mounting.

For someone new to turning I would suggest that the socket is no more than a third of the base area in diameter, if that is too small for your jaws then you should resort to a spigot not a socket and grip in compression.

 

[Bigbud78]

Too late ! I realized after it happened that there wasn't enough meat in the socket, I have a load of these small blanks too lol Unfortunately that's the smallest jaws I have and this chuck only does expansion. Great tips thou thanks