Linseed oil

[JFC]

I hear of loads of different oils that cost a fortune and are better for this and that .
Pure Linseed is the cheapest and isn't all oil linseed based ?
If it is ( as im led to believe ) then why buy any thing else ?

 

[Sgian Dubh]

isn't all oil linseed based ?

If it is ( as im led to believe ) then why buy any thing else ?

Well, tung oil comes from tung nuts and peanut oil is derived from peanuts.

I'm not sure what point you're trying to make. Could you elaborate a bit more? Slainte.

 

[JFC]

Im not trying to make a point . What im saying is why spend good money on oil when linseed will do the same job . Maybe even a better job IMHO .

 

[Matt1245]

As far as i know, most finishing/danish type oils are tung oil based, mixed with driers etc. I think linseed oil is only used in it's pure for and as boiled linseed oil.

Doesn't pure linseed oil take about 4 days to dry between coats?

Matt.

 

[Anonymous]

Im not trying to make a point . What im saying is why spend good money on oil when linseed will do the same job . Maybe even a better job IMHO .

Linseed will not do a better job than many other oils. Also, pure Linseed oil will takes weeks to dry. Boiled Linseed will take days to dry.
I just coated an oak picture frame with Danish oil and it was dry in 2 hours and ready for a coat of wax.

I quite like boiled Linseed oil (my workbench is finished in it) but rarely use it there are many superior alternatives

 

[Matt1245]

hear of loads of different oils that cost a fortune and are better for this and that .

I don't think there's a great deal of difference between the price of linseed oil and others.

Matt.

 

[Colin C]

Linseed will not do a better job than many other oils. Also, pure Linseed oil will takes weeks to dry. Boiled Linseed will take days to dry.
I just coated an oak picture frame with Danish oil and it was dry in 2 hours and ready for a coat of wax.

I quite like boiled Linseed oil (my workbench is finished in it) but rarely use it there are many superior alternatives

I have and still use Linseed oil on the cues ( I used to play pool a LOT but still sell some if I can get them cheaply ), I use Linseed for finishing them and I dont find it takes weeks to dry. I have left cues over night to dry and found that fine.
I think what it is about ( like you have said Tony), is that peice can be re-coated in few hours.
If you have bur walnut and want to make it stand out, try Linseed on it first ( just one coat ) and leave it over night, then polish.
You will find it brings out the grain much more and also gives it very nice colour IMHO

 

[JFC]

Interesting that your looking at drying time rather than what the best oil is for the timber .

 

[Matt1245]

Drying time is just one consideration. Also have to consider the sheen you want to achieve, if it needs to be food safe, smell (if used inside a cupboard or drawer etc).

Matt.

 

[Philly]

JFC
Linseed oil is indeed the (or at least a) base for many of the finishing or Danish oil blends on the market. The reason for these different "blends" is that linseed oil takes a while to dry (especially the non-boiled variety), needs a few coats (which is a fair bit of work) doesn't really build up very thickly and offers little effective protection from water, etc.
The finishing oils available today are really a blend of oil and varnish. They have driers added to speed the curing time, and have extra resins added to build up quickly and offer water resistance.
I finished a cherry side board not too long ago using only boiled linseed oil. I wanted to try it out as it is such a traditional finish. Applied correctly (i.e. all excess removed from the surface before being left to dry, many coats applied) it gives a beautiful colour but the wood is left feeling "exposed" and truly naked. A nice effect but I fear it is not offering much protection.
I recommend trying one of the danish or finishing oils. They offer the same "in the wood" effect but with some real protectio for your piece.
Hope this helps
Philly

 

[dddd]

I was considering Linseed oil to finish my deck with (yellow Balau), although now I read this, especially considering the fickle nature of our weather and the drying time I'm wondering if there are and better alternatives. Any suggestions?

 

[Anonymous]

Interesting that your looking at drying time rather than what the best oil is for the timber .

I only pointed this out as one reason to choose others over linseed and as I stated, pure Linseed can take literally weeks to fully dry.

There are many other reasons to use other oils as stated by Philly above.

Colin, if you use Boiled linseed and wipe off the excess on a smallish item, then overnight to dry is not unusual. However, whenever I apply boiled Linseed to large pieces such as my workbench, I find 2-3 days is the minimum befoere I can place anything on the bench or actually use it.

 

[JFC]

http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/Prod...ryID/8/v/be67226d-aeac-475e-8156-feaa0f72396c
The boaters are swearing by this product if it helps .
I agree Linseed takes ages to dry but isn't that a good thing ?
As soon as the linseed looks dry oil it again and again until the timber will not take any more . Ok on tables and chairs that you want to use soon after this is not ideal but on other things like gates and fences etc ?

 

[tim]

I was considering Linseed oil to finish my deck with (yellow Balau), although now I read this, especially considering the fickle nature of our weather and the drying time I'm wondering if there are and better alternatives. Any suggestions?

Why do you want to apply any finish to a deck? I'm assuming that it might be to retain the colour. Unless you are prepared to refinish it regularly then you will be fighting a losing battle against the elements. IMO hardwood decks look much better when they are silver grey anyway.

Cheers

Tim

 

[Steve Maskery]

I used to use Danish for cherry and ash. It is very attractive in that you don't need any special tools or environment, is quick, and it looks great. For a while. My experience is that it dulls much faster than one would like, and all my cherry dining room suite that was done in oil has been rubbed down and refinished in lacquer. My ash lounge has a bookcase which looks awful now, ten years after I made it.

Oil is fine if you don't mind refinishing regularly, but I'm going to carry on buying Terry's lacquer.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Colin C]

Tony
I am just asking, are you putting to much on as the only time I have had this was when I left a marking guage in Linseed for about 2 days and that did take a long time to dry.

 

[Alf]

Tony
I am just asking, are you putting to much on as the only time I have had this was when I left a marking guage in Linseed for about 2 days and that did take a long time to dry.

Took the words right out of my mouth, Colin. We're all wiping the excess oil off the work, right...? :-k

Cheers, Alf

 

[MIGNAL]

You can greatly reduce the cure time of Lnseed oil simply by subjecting it to UV, the oil dries by polymerisation. As preiously stated so called 'boiled' linseed is a low grade version with an added metallic drier. Food grade linseed can be used but may never dry because of added preservative and/or cross contamination from pressing other oil types using the same equipment.

 

[Evergreen]

I've used various types of oil over the years and have always come back to linseed oil for certain jobs. Of course it's not as durable as more modern oils which, as others have pointed out, often incorporate varnishes. But it has its place when you want a subtle, almost flat finish.

And here's the interesting point - I use raw linseed oil, not BLO. I cut the first coat with about one third pure turps and then give two more coats. You flood the surface to begin with and then rub off the excess really well and get rid of the rags very carefully. I've never had to wait longer than overnight to apply the next coat. Excessive drying time has never been a problem for me.

Linseed oil, either raw or boiled, is extremely cheap - why not treat yourself to a bottle and conduct a few experiments on samples of wood that you intend to use? It definitely seems to suit some woods (e.g. oak and beech) more than others.

Kind regards.

 

[Anonymous]

Tony
I am just asking, are you putting to much on as the only time I have had this was when I left a marking guage in Linseed for about 2 days and that did take a long time to dry.

Don't think so. I did wipe the excess off after 10 minutes but it is a very large area and maybe I had left some areas too wet.

However, I have often read that Linseed does dry very slowly and this has been my experience too.

Just for the record, I love the warm tones Linseed brings to wood