I used my Sculpfun S9 laser to make some custom packaging from cardboard I can source from work for free.
Latest thing you have printed / machined / cut
- Thread starter fezman
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Corset
Established Member
Knocked up a 3d printed jig for my sorby proedge. This allows japanese chisels to he sharpened as the backs can be odd shapes so dont work well with the jigs that come with the proedge. Particular my dovetail style ones. References off the back edge
In an attempt to improve dust collection on my bandsaw I designed a couple of curved corner thingies to help the flow of air and to stop the dust collecting in the corners. I also taped draught excluder around the edges to make a seal around the door. Not perfect but a definite improvement.
Cnc was probably overkill for this project but want to get some more time on the CNC.
Would look better with contrasting wood but I couldn't be bothered to mill up any ha.
Would look better with contrasting wood but I couldn't be bothered to mill up any ha.
Steve Mehrlich
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i whipped up a quick catch all type bowl on my cnc with a little silver inlay .
anyone have any tips for trimming the silver wire without deformign the cut ends? bottom left of the bowl shows the jopin in the silver looking a bti scruffy..
anyone have any tips for trimming the silver wire without deformign the cut ends? bottom left of the bowl shows the jopin in the silver looking a bti scruffy..
Perhaps try a thin Dremel type cutoff wheel? It may raise a burr, but silver is relatively soft, so should be easy to tidy up. One alternative might be to silver solder the ends together, but you'd need to be very accurate with wire length and there may be more cleanup involved.
An alternative option might be to divide the silver inlay into perhaps 6 or 8 pieces and use the joins as "features" - and I only suggest this because I actually like the handmade look of the join.
If it were me, I'd probably try 7 divisions - I really love the look of sevenths for some reason - my favourite alloy wheels are all 7 spoke designs.
spiritburner
Established Member
use a jewellers saw blade, its designed to do just this, they are incredibly fine and cut normally on all sides of the blade as its more like a wire than a flat blade, lay the silver wire on a piece of pine or similar and cut through the wire on that its easier if you have a Jewellers Peg , you dont need to buy one just make one out of some beech or other hardwood.
They are sacrificial. My daughter is Gold and Silversmith and I made her a full size Jewellers workbench a few years back. Her Peg is slightly different to the one in the photo as it slots into a rectangular hole I made in the half round work are that is cut out in the main bench area Even I use it to cut out fine detailed pieces sometimes.
They are are actually quite useful benches to work with !! The one in the photo is designed for DIY users or where you dont have a proper bench
If you cut the wire with anything other than a jewellers saw it will leave a mark or pressure marks,practice first !
They are sacrificial. My daughter is Gold and Silversmith and I made her a full size Jewellers workbench a few years back. Her Peg is slightly different to the one in the photo as it slots into a rectangular hole I made in the half round work are that is cut out in the main bench area Even I use it to cut out fine detailed pieces sometimes.
They are are actually quite useful benches to work with !! The one in the photo is designed for DIY users or where you dont have a proper bench
If you cut the wire with anything other than a jewellers saw it will leave a mark or pressure marks,practice first !
Steve Mehrlich
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interesting that might just do it , thanks
spiritburner
Established Member
its the same type of saw that makes millions of beautiful items so it should do, just make sure you get jewellery saw blades, if you can get them in a grade, go for fine and if you have difficulty holding your silver wire use another piece of very soft wood to hold it down, Balsa is best or deal/pine.
Silver is a very soft metal but it work hardens and will go brittle, if that happens just anneal it gently or it will melt before your eyes ! Similar to electrical solder but with a bit more heat. Have fun inlaying your plate with silver it is a very nice addition, you can use super glue gel to hold it in place, just make sure the silver is clean first. They also look good inlaid with Brass or copper.
Silver is a very soft metal but it work hardens and will go brittle, if that happens just anneal it gently or it will melt before your eyes ! Similar to electrical solder but with a bit more heat. Have fun inlaying your plate with silver it is a very nice addition, you can use super glue gel to hold it in place, just make sure the silver is clean first. They also look good inlaid with Brass or copper.
spiritburner
Established Member
The other thing you could do is actually solder the two ends together and file them to shape ,as silver is so soft you can then tap/stretch it to fit the ring. It looks great by the
way !
way !
Jewellers saw definitely, but I would probably make it just a smidge too long and use a stone on the ends. You will struggle to get perfect ends just from the saw.
The other option is to solder it together just a tad too small. If you then put it vertically on a flat surface and use a wallpaper seam roller on the inside to roll around the inside diameter this will stretch it by tiny amounts until you can drop it in.
The only other observation I would make is that you might consider nickel silver. The real thing may tarnish, nickel silver won't.
Interestingly this was how nickel silver first became known in the west. The Chinese used it instead of actual silver in inlays in furniture and other items, including decorative thread on embroidered garments, precisely because it looks exactly like silver but doesn't tarnish.
Took us a hundred years or more to work out what it was actually made of !
Also much cheaper.
The other option is to solder it together just a tad too small. If you then put it vertically on a flat surface and use a wallpaper seam roller on the inside to roll around the inside diameter this will stretch it by tiny amounts until you can drop it in.
The only other observation I would make is that you might consider nickel silver. The real thing may tarnish, nickel silver won't.
Interestingly this was how nickel silver first became known in the west. The Chinese used it instead of actual silver in inlays in furniture and other items, including decorative thread on embroidered garments, precisely because it looks exactly like silver but doesn't tarnish.
Took us a hundred years or more to work out what it was actually made of !
Also much cheaper.
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that's a beautiful bowl, is it walnut?
What was your process for the inlay, it looks like you've got some wide bits, and it seems to intrude into the wood grain in places. Is that a result of applying pressure (possibly during sanding?), I assume you didn't melt the silver?
Interesting information from Spritburner, in the UK Jeweler's saw blades are usually called Piercing saw blades and are numbered such as 4/0 getting finer (and more fragile) to I think 8/0, Swiss manufactured were the best.
In restoration of marquetry, I rarely went finer that 6/0. I also used exactly the same type of work table. Getting a bit fragile myself to still work that fine!
In restoration of marquetry, I rarely went finer that 6/0. I also used exactly the same type of work table. Getting a bit fragile myself to still work that fine!
sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
A fairly simple CNC job for storing the detritus that comes with a Flair espresso maker + accessories; just a bunch of circular pockets, in a bit of scrap oak. The edges, radii, and chamfers were all done afterwards on the router table. Finished with a couple of coats of shellac.
curryjunkie
Established Member
Busy making stuff for Xmas markets..took an hour to cut with a 60 deg carbide v bit
Not woodwork related but it does mount to a wooden camera
A mount for a studio flash trigger on my Intrepid 5x4 camera.
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