Kitchen work top cutting
- Thread starter Blacon
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
What are you using to make the cut — router and jig is probably the best option but if it’s the sink aperture your referring to then I prefer a decent jigsaw with a blade that cuts on the down stroke. Before I do anything I apply a good quality masking tape and mark the cutting line onto the tape -also supporting the worktop and the offcut is crucial to not chipping the melamine as you complete the cut .
I am not happy with my current worktop with those joining strips fitted leaving bump on the worktop. So i intend to use same worktop , this will shorten it, but i am thinking not enough that it cannot be covered by a splash back of some description.
I have option of router or circular saw or parkside jigsaw , but no cuting template
I get you now ,, depends if your current worktops have a post formed edge or they are the more modern square edge type . The latter or a bit easier as you can simply create a butt joint . You will still need a router and a jig or template to form the bolt apertures on the underside of the worktops. You can do the joint with a circular saw and straight edge but you need to be really accurate. If they have the post formed ( rounded edge ) then you will need definitely need a jig, router , sharp kitchen cutter router bit . You will need to cut what’s called a masons mitre . This is more complicated and will use more off the lengths of the two pieces of work top you are attempting to join . Ghey do sell single use jigs for worktop cutting or you can probably hire the jig etc .
Edit
You will also need a product called colorfill to seal the joint -it’s available in several colours to match your existing worktops
Graham Brazier
Established Member
This will give you an idea what to do
sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
Never had a problem doing solid oak worktops with a (new) straight fluted bit, but maybe a downcut spiral bit would be advisable for a chipboard worktop covered in laminate.
Sorry to be a doubter but if your primary goal is not to chip the laminate then good luck using a handsaw . Traditional handsaw’s will cut on the push and the pull stroke so this method will be prone to chipping especially with existing worktops . Also wood glue will potentially cause the joint to swell up during the curing and then shrink when it dries ..the end result could look no better than the metal worktop joints you already have.. just my opinion of course.
sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
That seems like a way to overcomplicate the job and quite possibly end up with cuts that don't match between the boards.
Use a decent masking tape as an additional layer of protection. As mentioned previously you can score the cut line with a straight edge and a very sharp Stanley knife or similar. As you will be cutting your work to melamine face down you need to be very accurate with lining up the saw . The last few mm of the cut in your video shows him cutting straight through and just letting the off cut free fall
that’s more than enough to cause a chip or break out at the end of the cut..
toolsntat
Yep, I collect tools and tat
Ok, I'm just wondering if this has been thought through enough because blindly I envisage issues.
First off the edging on the piece that butts up has a poor meeting with the surface laminate, it could be swelling and failing is it good enough in your eyes to warrant the work ?
That same piece of worktop might possibly need shortening 5mm to tidy the joining edge and close the front edging joint. This maybe more if they knocked the corner off as a consequence of using a rollover worktop joining strip. Is this top going to be able to be moved sideways without issue?
If the answer is no.....
Does the other worktop have any appliances or a sink to hinder pulling it out away from the back wall which you have hinted at doing ? If yes be very aware that there can sometimes be very little worktop or unit left on the front edge and fixed piping may not move enough without alteration. Is there another worktop joining this one?
Perhaps a overview picture would garner clearer information?
Cheers, Andy
First off the edging on the piece that butts up has a poor meeting with the surface laminate, it could be swelling and failing is it good enough in your eyes to warrant the work ?
That same piece of worktop might possibly need shortening 5mm to tidy the joining edge and close the front edging joint. This maybe more if they knocked the corner off as a consequence of using a rollover worktop joining strip. Is this top going to be able to be moved sideways without issue?
If the answer is no.....
Does the other worktop have any appliances or a sink to hinder pulling it out away from the back wall which you have hinted at doing ? If yes be very aware that there can sometimes be very little worktop or unit left on the front edge and fixed piping may not move enough without alteration. Is there another worktop joining this one?
Perhaps a overview picture would garner clearer information?
Cheers, Andy
Kendall Downes
Member
Using rebating templates can be a handy way to ensure clean and precise cuts on kitchen worktops without chipping. They provide a guide for your cutting tools, helping you achieve professional-looking results. However, it's essential to choose high-quality templates and follow the instructions carefully to avoid any mishaps.
