Kitchen update

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

large red

Established Member
Joined
4 Jul 2011
Messages
109
Reaction score
5
I want to (actually I dont, wife wants me too) update the kitchen, replace doors with shaker style but how hard is it to add face frames, what is the max width that I can have. I expect to have to make new draw boxes. Has anyone any experience of doing this?
 
Do you mean adding face frames to the doors or carcasses?

Doors are easy, but adding to carcass may require changing the door hinges to throw the doors out further so they will clear the new frame.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 
What are you planning on using to make the frames from? For example if using 12mm mrmdf, cut a strip and hold in place next to the hinge side of a door (flush with existing carcass) open the door and see if it clears the mdf. If it does, great. If not then you need to change the hinges/use thinner material.

Hope this makes sense....

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 
I have made quite a few kitchen unit fronts for a customer who is a property developer. He buys standard kitchen carcasses and just tells me what he wants making in fronts. They are made of tulipwood with mdf panels, he paints them and fits them. I have only seen photos of the finished kitchens but they look like top end bespoke kitchens for a fraction of the price.

I hang the doors on butt hinges, not sure what he does with the drawers as I just supply drawer fronts.

Do you have enough depth on the worktops to add fronts on?
 
Doug71":1icdlqs3 said:
I have made quite a few kitchen unit fronts for a customer who is a property developer. He buys standard kitchen carcasses and just tells me what he wants making in fronts. They are made of tulipwood with mdf panels, he paints them and fits them. I have only seen photos of the finished kitchens but they look like top end bespoke kitchens for a fraction of the price.

I hang the doors on butt hinges, not sure what he does with the drawers as I just supply drawer fronts.

Do you have enough depth on the worktops to add fronts on?

I was thinking of doing this for our kitchen. The carcases are fine, but I don't like the doors. Doors and drawer fronts seem a doable project. What sections of tulip do you use and what thickness MDF?
 
Its definitely doable.....I would use 38mm wide tulipwood face frames, domino's or biscuits for fixing, then make doors and draws to fit face frames.
I've done it for a client in his utility room, will see if I can find some photos....
ac25875028aa0cea1fc18c2623ffce9d.jpg
6ea56ca459a7abb4ba6b0cc8baa3fca8.jpg


Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk
 
marcros":2k2pwnui said:
What sections of tulip do you use and what thickness MDF?

It all depends on style etc but often the frames are 40 mm wide so they comfortably cover two 18mm units butted together. The stiles and rails on doors often finish 80mm wide. Doors and frames normally finish 27mm thick. Small doors just 6mm MDF panels but bigger ones 10mm. Generally the doors are made in a shaker style but with an ogee type bead stuck on the panels around the inside of the rails to give a Victorian kind of look.
 
When I tried to stick the frames to the cabinet doors, in a week cracks appeared between the layers. It might had something to do with the wood I used (it seems like it wasn't dry enough but at the time I missed it). Tried fixing it by using screws. In the end I had to buy new cabinets (couldn't find a store which was selling cabinet doors). So it's a must to check the wood from which you are going to make the frames. Btw for frame ideas do check Murdoch Troon portfolio.
 
Back
Top