Just another way to extend the Chuck Jaws

[wood yew believe it !]

cheers chas, was kind of what i thought! paul, dunno mate, no secret, standard face plate to start, but dead slow, maybe with a counter-weight if piece badly unbalanced, when switched, a fairly large recess for the chuck to get a good ol grip on, and again slow till piece is balanced and lost a fair bit of weight, job done.
absolutely no detriment to you guys, but for me i cant see the point as when finished you cant even see the recess, and spigots can easily be parted off and judging by some of the major engineering some are going to(all credit there!) just seems that its all getting too complicated IMHO.
One of my motto's .... keep it simple,stupid!, not saying you are of course, if it works for you, crack on! gonna shut up now b 4 you guys start calling me a w**ker

 

[Paul.J]

WYBI Wrote
gonna shut up now b 4 you guys start calling me a w**ker
Whats wrong with been called a walker.Nothing wrong with walking :wink:
Paul.J.

 

[wood yew believe it !]

:lol: :-$ sorry

 

[NickWelford]

Ah but, WYBI, show your piece to another turner and they will always pick it up and look at how well finished the underneath is. And areas not usually in view. (cabinet makers probably look at the back of cabinets too). Was a time not so long ago when the base was generally covered with green fablon suede effect stuff - things are getting better.

 

[Bodrighy]

I don't mind the recesses in bottoms, they can be enhanced and made into a feature. When you have to mount on a faceplate however, I don't like the holes from the screws. Being able to get rid of those is good IMHO. Someone mentioned this on another thread so I watched people looking at my work and it's true. every single person has picked it up to feel it and then looked at the bottom. The very nature of the thing makes it tactile and worthy of inspection all over.

Pete

 

[Alf]

Was a time not so long ago when the base was generally covered with green fablon suede effect stuff - things are getting better.

Speaking as someone who's slaved over finishing table tops, often I think things are getting worse. Potters are the main culprits for having bases just designed to dig gouges out of tables, but turners aren't always as careful as they should be. I'd rather have the green fablon every time, personally; however naff ( and yes, it is ghastly, I know).

Cheers, Alf

Nine...

 

[Bodrighy]

I suspect the when people who could afford fancy pottery and woodwork all had french polished furniture, baize or felt was a neccesity. I seem to remember my grandmother always having a bottle of Topps Ringaway, (or something like that) in the house and getting slapped for leaving a white ring on her pristine walnut veneered sideboard.

Pete

 

[wood yew believe it !]

good point nick, but i always finish the base as well as i finish the "top side" and in general use the smallest and most shallow recess as poss and where possible have no recess at all (parted off and hand fin) and never ever have a piece with "holes where mounted"

 

[duncanh]

Paul.J - the buttons are the original ones that came with the jaws. You can buy them separately but I haven't got round to it yet. I really should though as it's a pain to keep swapping them.

WYBI - I use these jaws to remove the holding method, which for me is pretty much always a tenon with a dovetail or sometimes without. Parting off the tenon isn't really a good method as (for me) it generally doesn't leave as clean a finish as the spindle gouge I use with my method.
Also, a decent concave surface with a good finish is easier to achieve with a gouge. You need the slightly concave base so that if the wood warps once off the lathe there's no chance of a high spot in the middle off the foot causing a rocking problem. (or so I've read). And if warping does occur and causes a high spot then you can remount the piece in the cole jaws (or just sand the base - easier when concave as there's less wood to sand).

If a piece has some feature on the rim or side (like a bead or a couple of groves) then I sometimes put the same feature on the foot as a surprise for whoever might pick it up and turn it over.

Duncan

 

[wood yew believe it !]

fair point duncan, though you can do the same if you have a recess, though not as much as your method granted

 

[Anonymous]

Duncan, you could use the plastic 'corks' they use for wine bottles... downside is that you have to drink the wine first... if you need help you only have to ask :wink:

 

[NickWelford]

good point nick, but i always finish the base as well as i finish the "top side" and in general use the smallest and most shallow recess as poss and where possible have no recess at all (parted off and hand fin) and never ever have a piece with "holes where mounted"

Of course, as all good turners should.

 

[Hans]

Paul.J wrote:

How have you fixed yours to the chuck.Did you have to strenghten this material,and how did you cut the segments

I got a piece of Trespa of 48 cm (19") square. Cut it in 4 equal squares on the tablesaw, glued these squares together with some strips of sacrificial wood. Marked, drilled and tapped M6 holes to fix the flat jaws to the Trespa. Then drilled the holes to fix the jaws to the chuck.
Cut out a circle with the bandsaw and turned the perimeter flat with a scraper. Drew the eight lines from the center to the rim at 22°30' from the sawlines. For the Stronghold chuck I wanted the distance of holes for the buttons 15 mm (5/8") apart. Marked out, drilled and tapped the holes for buttons. I prefer the Vicmarc buttons with concave-convex shape which use a M5 machine screw.

Maybe some of the above makes sense when you have the picture with it.


The Oneway flat jaws for the Stronghold have three countersunk holes that will take an M6 machine screw.

These jaws are meant to be used for light cuts and sanding.
I don't think the Trespa needs further strengthening. Of course you could make the holes for fixing the jaws to the chuck 6 mm (1/4") and countersink the heads. You would need to use longer screws then to fix the jaws. I prefer to use to use the standard screws. I have a job to keep things together as it is.

I doubt if much of this is applicable when building jaws like this for a different chuck and lathe, nevertheless I hope there is something you can use.

Hans

 

[Paul.J]

Duncan wrote.
the buttons are the original ones that came with the jaws. You can buy them separately but I haven't got round to it yet.Thanks Duncan.

Hans it does make sense and thank you.
Paul.J.

 

[duncanh]

Instead of having to tap all the holes you could just use longer bolts and fasten them at the back with nuts - locking nuts if you want to be extra secure.

Duncan

 

[Paul.J]

Duncan wrote
Instead of having to tap all the holes you could just use longer bolts and fasten them at the back with nuts
Duncan,this is why i used t-nuts on mine.
Paul.J.