Joints for boxes

[dovetail2007]

Guys,

I'm laid up for a week or so following an operation today, so I see it a good time to get together a list of projects to start when I'm back in the 'shop.
Top of my list is a baby walker, next is a range of boxes.
I've made boxes before, with little success - using softwood and mitres, cut on my CMS. These were in turn glued with Titebond in a pictureframe clamp. Needless to say, getting a tight fit was challenging.

I'd like to make some boxes, maybe 150x100x75 ish, or maybe bigger it that is easier!

This week's messing about with the router table produced a box joint jig of sorts - not very reliable nor safe, but it can be worked on.
I'd love to get a DT jig, most likely the cheap APTC type - c.£30 and getting a small 1/4" router to use in this (Trend T3 or similar) as my B&Q 1/2" is a bit too heavy handed for handheld work and is mounted in the table at the moment.

So, my question:
Which joint would you use? Mitre, Dovetail (with jig+new router) or comb/finger/box joint? Or is there something easier (other than butt joints, please )

Also, for the bases I have just routed a 4mm groove along the bottom, and inserted the hardboard - this worked well, but for lids, I'm stumped. I don't have access to a bandsaw so cannot cut the top from the bottom afterwards.

Oh dear, another long and waffling post

Cheers,

Sam

 

[Anonymous]

I like Houndstooth DTs for jewelery boxes and large finger joints (they don't look like B&Q specials then) for more mundane boxes. For the finger joint approach, i prefer only 3, 4 or 5 fingers forming the joint

Another favorite is a mitre with splines ot re-enforce the joint. You can make all manner of attractive joints with this technique

 

[Smudger]

Have a look here

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15641&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I ordered the jigs from Canada, but if you go through to the end of the thread there are some pics of a workshop-made version.

 

[dovetail2007]

Aye, I have seen those already Smudger.
My poor efforts of jig making were along those lines, albeit a more basic version.
I think my priciple was right, but following through was more difficult


Is there any way houndstooth DTs can be cut on a router?
Also, for splined mitre joints, do the slots for the splines have to be cut using a TS?

Cheers

 

[ByronBlack]

Why not handcut dovetails? That would be my preferred choice.

 

[j]

You could try the drawer lock type joints. All you need is the special router bits.

 

[Scrit]

You don't need a special cutter at all. It can be made with a groover and a straight bit, or even two straight bits:

Strong and relatively forgiving of minor discrepancies.

Scrit

 

[DomValente]

I'm with Tony, mitred with angled splines in a contrasting timber.

Dom

 

[dovetail2007]

Thanks for all the replies.
I am still deciding which option to go with.
I am not going to go with Houndstooth DTs as at the moment I do not have the skill to cut these successfully.
Drawer joints and splined mitres may be do-able however without a TS I see it impossible to cut the splines.

Cheers, and keep the sugestions coming

Sam

 

[ByronBlack]

Sam, can you not cut the splines with a handsaw?

 

[dovetail2007]

Very good point
Which would be a good saw to use? I have a tenon saw..?
Cheers,

Sam

 

[ByronBlack]

I've cut some before with a rather blunt tenon saw so I can't see why not give it a go on some scrap and see how you go!

 

[Anonymous]

Is there any way houndstooth DTs can be cut on a router?

No, no, no, no, no, no, no

And I forgot to say no!!!!! :wink:

Just practice a bit and you'll find they are really quite easy

Also, for splined mitre joints, do the slots for the splines have to be cut using a TS?

Use a router table and bit with a knock-up jig to hold the box - I do

 

[Tony Ward]

Hi

This site presents the work of Master Kintaro Yazawa who creates some amazing joints http://www.eurus.dti.ne.jp/~k-yazawa/english.html