Jet Wetstone Grinder questions

[LarryS.]

Hi,

Just bought one of these :
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product....etstone+grinder&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=44

2 questions :

1. I've just tried using the angle jig to grind some chisels, instructions say to put the chisel against its sides to keep it straight (makes sense) but when I do that the grind isn't straight, its off at an angle of about 3 degrees

2. How do I flatten the bottom side ? Do I use my norton wetstone (4000 / 8000 grit) ? Or is there some way of using the grinder to do it ?

thanks

 

[CHJ]

Is the tool rest that your jig locates on set square and true to the stone periphery?

 

[DaveL]

Paul,

Have you followed the instructions and trued the wheel using the diamond dresser? This needs to be done, but it to relies on the support bar being in line with the shaft the wheel is running on. I found I need to be careful to lock both of the support clamps before I do anything using it.

I have also invested in the new truing jig from Tormek, this is easier to use. If you get one you will need to make a locating spacer to use it. There is more clearance between the wheel and the support clamp on the Jet machine.

 

[Chems]

Im thinking of purchasing one of these, are they pretty super Paul?

 

[Grinding One]

The Jet is a knock off of a tormek...in my opinion

 

[Chems]

£400 on a grind machine is toooo much IMHO. 165 I'd be willing to pay for something that did the job 70% as well.

 

[LarryS.]

Paul,

Have you followed the instructions and trued the wheel using the diamond dresser? This needs to be done, but it to relies on the support bar being in line with the shaft the wheel is running on. I found I need to be careful to lock both of the support clamps before I do anything using it.

I have also invested in the new truing jig from Tormek, this is easier to use. If you get one you will need to make a locating spacer to use it. There is more clearance between the wheel and the support clamp on the Jet machine.

Dave,
The grinder came with a piece of paper attached saying 'stone has been trued at the factory', so I took it as read, however now thinking about it perhaps I need to do it myself (did notice a change in pitch when grinding on different sides of the wheel)

 

[LarryS.]

Is the tool rest that your jig locates on set square and true to the stone periphery?

my assumption is yes - as there seems to be no adjustment possible, and nothing in the instructions about having to do it, has anyone else done this ?

 

[newt]

I found that you do need to use the diamond truing jig, not only will it true the stone to the support bar it will make grinding so much quicker. They really should include one as part of the package which would mean a £30 pound increase. I also true my stone after each grinding session.

 

[OLD]

I got a dvd with mine which answers most questions sorry but i am not able to copy at the moment. when fixing in clamp just angle the job to give a square cut set the angle gauge to the higher angle of the range as it will be hollow ground, flatten the back using your preferred method, oil the new strop wheel then add paste and carefully remove wire edge on back( or 'not' if wary of rounding) then hone the bevel .You can also change the wheel to fine with the stone if you require.

 

[DaveL]

Dave,
The grinder came with a piece of paper attached saying 'stone has been trued at the factory', so I took it as read, however now thinking about it perhaps I need to do it myself (did notice a change in pitch when grinding on different sides of the wheel)

Well that is a change from when I got mine (Christmas present from the LOML 2 years ago). I had to fit the wheel, the simple truing thing came in the package along with a DVD, which said first thing to do was true the wheel.

 

[forrestdale]

1. I've just tried using the angle jig to grind some chisels, instructions say to put the chisel against its sides to keep it straight (makes sense) but when I do that the grind isn't straight, its off at an angle of about 3 degrees

I just happened to read a review of the Jet and the Tormek yesterday where it seems that the owner had the same problem with the Jet. Just a minute while I look through my browsing history...

Yep, here we are, and there's also a photo...

------------
http://foldingrule.blogspot.com/2008/07/episode-64-its-true-you-get-what-you.html

I set up the JET Wet Sharpening System according to the instructions. Trued the wheel and graded it to coarse grind. The leather strop was conditioned with oil and charged with honing compound. I decided to start off with my rehabbed Stanley block and bench plane irons. Both irons ended up super sharp but off square. I went back and checked everything. The stone was square. The support guide was square. The jig however did not align squarely to the wheel and support arm. I sharpened each iron twice with the same results.
------------

I don't have either, so can't comment from a personal viewpoint.

Forrest

 

[LarryS.]

not the news i was hoping for !

 

[OPJ]

Paul, you won't be able to use a grinder to flatten the flat, back face of any chisel or iron. As you thought in the original post, this will have to be done on a bench stone. Ideally, you want to start on a coarse grit and work your way up (medium, fine, extra fine). Whatever stone you use, keep it lubricated. As you start cutting, you should be able to see the high and low spots where material is and isn't being removed.

That's the important thing, to get a flat back. Some people will keep going for a perfect mirror-finish, but it's down to personal choice... With a plane iron, it's only necessary to flatten a smaller portion of the back. But with a chisel, you need to flatten as much of the back as possible, since you're likely to be using it with this side down for paring or trimming work. :wink:

 

[LarryS.]

cheers olly, i thought as much (but hoped for different !)

paul

 

[ivan]

That fine Mr Charlesworth helpfully suggests

(a) once you've decided on the correct height for the rest, cut a block of mdf etc as a wheel/rest spacer, so the rest can always be repositioned at same height above wheel.
(b) forget the rest leg-screw adjuster, set grinding angle by adjusting amount blade projects from guide, and
(c) lock and NEVER move the rest between wheel true-ings for rest won't go back exactly the same, no matter how carefully you try!

In short moving the rest will require subsequent use of the diamond device if you expect 90 deg accuracy. None of this is a problem for carvers etc for whom the grinder is really designed. Applies to all Tormek style wet grinders.

 

[Richardhw]

I have recently bought one of these and found the same thing, I wonder if it is a fault with the casting of the holder? if this is the case it's a shame that Jet haven't done something about it.
Does any one know if the support bars are the same as the Tormek as I may just try their holder and see if it makes a difference.

 

[Grinding One]

Just buy a tormek

 

[Carl]

I bought the Jet Wetstone Sharpner last week, I was going to buy the Tormek 1206 until I noticed the offer at Axminster and bought the Jet instead, after reading this forum I wish I had now bought the Tormek 1206. The reason for buying the Jet was that it was the same price as the Tormek 1206 and looked like a better grinder, what if I bought the Tormek jigs in place of the Jet ones, as it seems the straight jig is at fualt, as I can't afford to buy a Tormek after buying the Jet Sharpner.

Carl

 

[Chems]

I was going to buy one, instead I bought 3 diamond stones. The jet was an easy way out for me.