'Jack of all' glue

[jimi43]

I don't need to do any digging at all Jake.

I tested all of them together and the Titebond came out empirically on top..I now use it for most indoor wood purposes and it has never failed.

Even under high string tension of a 12 string, neck/headstock joints are holding up fine many years later.

I honestly don't care if it's aliphatic or ali baba....it works for me and no amount of marketing hype will have encouraged me one way or another.

Similarly...Gorilla Glue has been hyped on almost ever media...I tried it...it sucks IMHO...so I don't use it.

Re "jack of all glues"...my opinion is also that there isn't one yet. Each has its own characteristics, strengths and weaknesses and part of the skill is to decide which to use when.

Jim

 

[Jake]

I don't have a problem with your preferences Jimi, use whatever suits you and you trust from experience.

I was talking about my own experience and preferences (and digging behind face value marketing claims). I only suggested you do some digging because you quoted the marketing blurb at me, and I've already been through that loop to get to what I posted earlier. As far as I am concerned, something called Abracadabra-Mystical-Properties glue will basically work the same as anything else with the same stuff in it (subject to resin content, tweaks to proportions of admixtures etc).

I haven't done any breaking strength destructive testing, though (except pvc to wood). I've never had a glue joint fail that I can think of with any type of glue, except in outdoor testing, so there is plenty of room for confirmation bias there.

 

[jimi43]

I don't have a problem with your preferences Jimi, use whatever suits you and you trust from experience.

I was talking about my own experience and preferences (and digging behind face value marketing claims). As far as I am concerned, something called Abracadabra-Mystical-Properties glue will basically work the same as anything else with the same stuff in it (subject to resin content, tweaks to proportions of admixtures etc).

HA! Excellent mate!

I used to use the old green plastic bottle of Evostick fame...without exception and it was ok...but then I was introduced to Titebond Original (when it was called Titebond because there were no others) and the results were much better.

Even Titebond indicate...by their test results that this is the strongest of the family, the adding of other elements that make it waterproof obviously compromises some of the strength.

I haven't really worried about tackability because I don't really need hi-tack glues...

I am sure there are other glues out there with a better formulation but for the price and results I have settled with the Original. I would be interested to see where you read that PVA was an aliphatic resin though...always want to understand things fully.

Jim

 

[Jake]

To be clear I am not saying it is bad glue - it is good glue (but probably no better than other good glues). I've never used green evostick, have used the blue one and it seems OK.

I'll have a dig around, I spent hours and hours on the hunt once I got suspicious. I never found a direct answer It was more a question of inference from multiple sources (and like I said, I'm not a chemist and I'd be very interested if we have one who could step in!). I do remember some document somewhere on a glue resin manufacturer or distributor's site being a bit of an ah-hah moment, so I'll see if I can trace that when I've got a bit more time.

 

[OPJ]

Dont glue it in the cold though!

I thought you built a wood burner last year, though?

 

[router-mad]

Hi all just read though the postings about jack of all glues and alot of you are recommending Titebond. Titebond as maybe a very glue and i'm not taking that away from it, its one thing as with most glues and thats the price of the stuff. So i can see where barkwindjammer is coming from wanting a glue that does all
As for me i use glue from "The glue people" mainly because there not far up the road from me and the fairly priced. I've used quite alot of there glues and never had any problems yet.

 

[wcndave]

.
It is expensive but since the resin and hardner are only mixed as required then I find that it lasts for years without going off.

I know this is an old post but.. I have been looking at epoxy resin mixes recently, mainly to fill gaps, repair knots etc, and axminster sell the junior set, of which they say

"You don't always want large quantities of resin and hardener sitting on the shelf, which is why we have introduced West System's Junior Pack to our range."

Due to shipping and convenience, i would rather get the larger pack, and the pumps, and use for ten years, however there seems to be conflicting information over whether it goes off. Any thoughts.

Also, any reason not to use this everywhere, i really only knew about white/yellow pva, however now i have the evostick, plus titebond II and gorilla. Never really sure which i should use when, as all my projects are indoors ones.

 

[devonwoody]

I used a cheapo pva the other week from a bazaar type outlet.
Watered it down by around 30% and did those laminations (wanted it to spread easily) and have no complaints regarding its set. Offcuts are lying around and they are firmly stuck.

 

[JakeS]

I've not used West System's resin in particular, but I've used a fair number of casting resins and I'm under the impression that they're similar... all of those went off in the presence of moisture in the air. If you kept the bottles tightly sealed they'd be fine, but people doing small, infrequent casting jobs would prefer smaller containers to avoid opening and closing the big ones and getting more moisture in each time.

One solution I've used is to decant some into smaller bottles - I used a couple of cheap aluminium drinking bottles from a supermarket, and I've not yet had a problem with the same large tins of resin I bought six or seven years ago.

 

[Jake]

Epoxy has a very good shelf life. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/storage-shelf-life

I've just got to the end of a B-pack which must be at least 5 years old and there is no discernable difference and it has been stored with no care in a damp cellar.

Other Jake,I think casting resins are usually either polyester or PUR based, both of which are much more delicate. The PUR is moisture curing just like PUR glue, and the polyester just partially cures itself in the absence of catalyst, which the epoxy does not (as I understand it).

 

[BTR]

I have used titebond original and titebond lll over the past few years and found the TB lll to be good all round glue, but on my recent project i have used the D4 glue from tools station and am very impressed with it i will be definatley using it again and it dries clear leaving a nearly invisible glue line .

 

[wcndave]

I've just got to the end of a B-pack which must be at least 5 years old and there is no discernable difference and it has been stored with no care in a damp cellar.

Good to hear, you think it's the same with the pumps installed as they might be less airtight?

 

[Stormer1940]

Just to add Cascamite is also known as One Shot... I use cascamite quite a bit and for door frame/ window frames and the like it is great. I even use it on internal doors as I know it will hold its own and as someone has already said you have time for adjustment. My old foreman use to call all glue F@c_ Glue because when you put the item together dry it goes together fine but as soon as glue is on the joints things start to go south lol...