It's Alive!!

[ByronBlack]

So, the SIP saw is now nicely nestled into the workshop, sitting pride of place. What a lovely machine. It really is a whole lotta value for money. The best thing is it runs quite happily of a 13amp plug; even with an extractor running at the same time. There's a tiny dip in the lights when it initially 'boots up' but once running, everything is gravy. I've not tested intensively yet or put the blade under much strain with thick stock, but it seems ok so far which is great. The main thing is I can run it to fine-tune it.

Getting it into the workshop was quite a task, but I did manage it, no thanks to the delivery driver who refused to go round the back because he was a lame driver; instead he insists on a curb-side drop only outside the front of my house. So, just 40 odd meters to shift it then! Once I got it up on it's side I could walk it by rocking it from side to side until eventually getting it into the workshop.

Putting it together was a little fiddly, and trying to lift it up on to it's base was a bit tough, didn't do my back any favours.

I have a couple of small issues to work out though. The first being the blade guard, because it sits quite low, if the blade is retracted a little, my Incra mitre gauge can't pass under it, is the only option to have the mitre guage further out so that it passes to the side of the guard, or is there something basic that I'm not realising?

The second issue is with the blade plate, the one supplied sits lower than the top by half a mil or so so when I pull the timber back from a cross-cut it catches on the ridge of the table. I'll have to make my own wooden zero-clearance guard I think, and perhaps shim this one to bring it level.

The other thing I need to sort out is the measure tape on the fence rail, because I don't want it over-hanging the left hand side, I've shifted it all the way to the right, this obviously puts the measures way out, does anyone know of a good quality replacement?

Overall, I'm impressed with the quality. The motor is incredibly quiet - even quieter than my planer thicknesser. And the finish from the supplied blade is much better than I was expecting, I'm looking forward to seeing what kind of finish I get with a decent Freud blade.

Most important of all - no rust!! The cast iron tops have a few marks and scratches presumably from transport, but nothing that I feel effects the use of it. I applied a number of coats of Liberon wax and the top is very smooth and slick, havn't bothered measuring flatness, it seems ok to me.

So, thanks again to everyone who gave their opinions and time in helping me make a decision. I feel very happy with the saw and can't wait to get it all tuned-up and ready to roll.

 

[Slim]

Phew, I can breathe a sigh of relief. Glad you like it BB.

I don't see how the issue with the crown guard/mitre gauge would me different with any other saw. As you will be aware, the incra is supplied with a handled allen key, making it a two second job to slide the fence over for clearance. I can't see this being a problem unless you are attempting to cut too short a piece anyway.

One of the first things I did was to make a zero clearance blade insert. I forgot to mention when you asked me BB, but the blade insert that comes with the saw is useless when the blade is set vertical. Small pieces easily fall down the gap, and can either be thrown out or stop the blade and riving knife retracting below the table. So a zero clearance insert is a must.

Hope you enjoy your new purchase. Have fun!

 

[Mike.C]

Nice one Byron I glad you like the saw. As for the tape measure just give SIP a call and I am sure they will sort you out with one. When you use their sliding table and move the two side extensions over to the right hand side (and move the fence level the edge of the table) the tape measure is obviously out, and for this reason they supply you with another one in with the sliding table, so they could give or sell you one of these.

Have fun.

Cheers

Mike

 

[devonwoody]

If you are putting the two extension tables on one side, I reckon you then definately need a leg support at its edge. Otherwise one day it might topple over when you least expect.

 

[wizer]

PICTURES?!?!?!

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Nice one BB, all you need do now is throw away the rubbish small suction hose and nick one off your swmbo's Dyson. :lol:

I don't think Devonwoody realizes how heavy these saws are, I don't think it would topple over even if you sat on the end of the table, but I would do as he suggests as the strain on those castings will be enormous, we don't want to see a posting on how to weld cast iron. :wink:

 

[ByronBlack]

Pictures will be uploaded in the next day or so, I've a date with england v croatia tonight so no workshop time for me this evening!

With regards the extension wings, I have one on each side so there's no worries there.

Simon - I'll adjust the mitre guage away from the guard, but the question is still there in regards to a sacrificial fence to give support to the cross-cut, in the instructions it says that you make it long and let the blade cut it to length to give like a zero-clearance backup to the stock being cut, but this would then foul of the guard as it does at the moment, the only other way I can see to achieve having a backing fence on the gauge is to remove the guard from the riving knife and have it suspended over the blade like LN's so that you have the required clearance..

Mike - thanks for the suggestion, I'll give SIP a call to see if I can a new measure.

LN - I was going to use the hose from my Trend extractor as this is now surplus to requirements until I get my router table setup.

A quick note on the riving knife: I must be lucky, it took literally 1 minute to install and was perfectly aligned with the blade from the get-go, so I'm well chuffed!

I don't like the fence that much though as it seems to rock a little from side to side as you move the fence across unless I use both hands to move the fence back and fourth, it seems square when locked down though, so I'm sure this is just something to get used to.

 

[devonwoody]

Byron to obtain my cutting line when using a mitre gauge/slot, I have cut through a sacrificial wooden fence (2x1) and then cut down with a hand saw an aperture/rebate to about 1/2" which passes under guard.

Anything less than that I might even take the guard off :roll:

 

[WellsWood]

PICTURES?!?!?!

They'll only make you jealous.

 

[ByronBlack]

DW - that sounds like a logical solution, thanks.

 

[les chicken]

Byron

Another SIP owner you will not be disappointed I know I am not, ( apart from the extract on the guard )
When adjusting the fence use one hand to push it back so the the rear clamp is free from the bar, you will find it will slide easily and square. A little bit of SWMBO spray polish will also stop the back clamp grabbing.
I also moved my arms to one side putting the tape out of alignment. Use a chisel and peel the existing one of and stick it back on with evostick impact adhesive it works fine.
Did you get the short bolt on fence for when cutting tenon shoulders that is very useful.
I also had to shim up the insert with some paper to make it level, but not needed now as I made another new zero clearance one this afternoon out of an old oak floor board. 3mm is the thickness or make one thicker as I have but route out the sides so that it lies flush with the table.

Happy sawing.

Les

 

[Digit]

I don't like the fence that much though as it seems to rock a little from side to side as you move the fence across unless I use both hands to move the fence back and fourth, it seems square when locked down though, so I'm sure this is just something to get used to.

That is why I set the fence square to the blade after moving the fence from the right to the left and ever after always approach the blade from the right, never double back!
It's a standard engineering procedure to reduce errors and seems to work well, certainly on my machine moving the fence towards the right leaves the rear end trailing and therefore closer to the blade than the front end.

 

[Mike.C]

Byron,

I don't like the fence that much though as it seems to rock a little from side to side as you move the fence across unless I use both hands to move the fence back and fourth, it seems square when locked down though, so I'm sure this is just something to get used to.

This has come up before and I cannot understand why some of us have no problem at all with the same fence.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Lord Nibbo]

This has come up before and I cannot understand why some of us have no problem at all with the same fence.

Cheers

Mike

Puzzle to me to :? I don't do anything to mine in respect of cleaning or oiling
it just works, but I am in the habit of tapping the fence midway along it's length to set it, as the so called micro adjuster seized up long ago from lack of use.

 

[Blister]

, I've a date with england v croatia tonight so no workshop time for me this evening!

Mate !! You may as weel have put the time to some good use :lol:

Still at least we will be Footie FREEE for the next few years :wink:

 

[Digit]

the so called micro adjuster seized up long ago from lack of use.

I'd bet money that is the reason Milord. Using the micro adjuster, as I do, you can watch the front end of the fence move before the rear end decides to join in!

 

[ByronBlack]

Thanks for all the suggestions, I have another question regarding the blade plate. I obviously need/want to make a zero-clearance one. Is it best to make it out of hardwood, or would a composite material be better? Secondly, if I raise the blade through it to create the slot, how do I accomadate the riving knife? Is there a logical way to do this, or do you just use a router to extend the opening?

I've also realised that I have put the base together incorrectly. I have the dust extraction tube at the front instead of the back, I'm a complete plank! Not sure I want to start removing everything to put it right though, I'll just have to see how it fares being at the front.

 

[OLD]

I used 3 ply and had to router the edge where it touches the casting lip .
Just extend the cut with a jap. saw for the knife. Your just trying to stop the saw eating the thin offcuts and reducing tearout.

 

[devonwoody]

Byron, I took my riving knive off, and raised the blade through some 3mm ply. Then I cut the riving knive opening using my jig saw, and some small files to clean up.
The most difficult part of the job is actually getting the screw holes centred.

Put the riving knife back after of course.

 

[Digit]

I used SRBP for my blade plate, good durability, low co-efficient of friction. Use the original plate as a jig when drilling the holes.