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Easy done DW.

I am pretty sure that the above may be the problem with their fences, or as Chisel says they need adjusting at the rear.

Cheers

Mike
 
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I'm going to have a closer look today and see if I can spot anything obvious. Both rails are currently free of any gunk and are lubricated so I can rule that one out, but I think my problem may be the tension of the clamping, when the handle is fully 'up' and the fence is unclamped this is where it can wobble all over the shop, when full clamped down it is solid but due to the overall wobbly-ness it's hard to get it square to the blade, so I think adjusting the tension might reduce some of this behaviour.

I shall see how i get on, I might take some shots just in case there is something I'm missing.

Cheers fella's!
 
I use an old engineers square at the far end of my fence/table and before I clamp down I hold the fence square to the tool and jiggle to position then pull down the lever.
 
Byron,

All you should have to focus on once it is properly set-up is setting the distance from the blade as per the front measuring scale, then lock down the handle. There is no need to check it's square to the blade each time as this happens automatically when correctly set up.

This probably isn't going to make you feel better at the moment (!), but it honestly couldn't be easier, more accurate or reliable in use, it is really very effective, so I can't begin to envisage what could be causing you so many problems, perhaps posting some pics will help us help as you say !

Cheers, Paul. :D
 
If you are saying that the long part and short part of the T fence are not firmly connected there are screws inside the junction that may be loose you need to separate the parts to find them .
 
ByronBlack":3iv00ppg said:
when the handle is fully 'up' and the fence is unclamped this is where it can wobble all over the shop

Having re-read this Byron, I only have the handle fully up to disengage the clamping mechanism entirely to lift the fence off the table.

If you are fully raising the handle and disengaging the mechanism altogether when adjusting the fence you would get the problems you describe I think.

In normal use the handle is unlocked and in a horizontal position which allows free and easy movement of the fence whilst restricting excess wobble or play (there has to be some by definition to let the fence move but there's not an amount that's a problem).

To lock the fence in position slight pressure is applied to the handle to move down below the horizontal position and lock in place, hardly needs any downward pressure to achieve this if adjusted properly.

Might be as simple as that ?!!!

Cheers, Paul. :D
 
Ok, ya'll be glad to know that fence is now almost perfect. It was just a tension issue. Once I tightened the nut it was much better. I still need to raise the rails a little as the fence is just sitting on the CI top at the front end, but at least I can now accurately use the fence knowing it's staying square.

Here are some pics of the saw in place. And with the new outfeed table that I made today - only took a couple of hours and used a single sheet of 18mm ply, this was much easier to do than if I still had to use my festool setup, the repeatability is a massive advantage.


2062591641_adff15c340.jpg


2062591649_ad2b80c107.jpg


2062591637_2222b43a1d.jpg


2062591653_0b547ed2f8.jpg
 
Byron

Pleased to see that you are nearly there regarding the SIP, as I have said before you will not be disappointed.

But the confusing part is, after your dilemmas about choosing a table saw you bought the SIP, but on another post you say that the axminster is better value for money, not sure that I follow the logic.

Unless I have missed out some where along the line ?????

Les
 
Ahhhh PICS!

It's a beaut! That outfeed table looks familiar. Wood Whisperer/Norm?

You're fully kitted out now then? Time to make some dust!
 
Tom - got it in one, WW/Norm design. It's a very quick/economical way of building a table, it's rock solid too which is nice. I just have to add a bottom shelf and some dividers and it'll be complete. I'm contemplating the idea of closing it in and adding a lockable door as this is where i'll be keeping my router and hand-held powertools.

Shultzy - I'm currently still waiting for a sparky to come and sign off the electrics before I can insulate/board it out, they need to hurry up because it's almost freezing in there of an evening!
 
Byron,
Looks good. The only thing I'd say about your outfeed table is to add slots. If you want to use any kind of sled you won't get past the blade before you come in contact with the outfeed table. In my option a sled is one of the most useful jigs you can make for a tablesaw.
Neil
 
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