Is there any problem with doing this? (electrical idea)

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Tetsuaiga

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Is there any reason why it would be a bad idea to turn on a dust extractor directly from the mains switch as opposed to its individual on?

So the usual button would be held to on, so it start immediately when receives power. I was thinking I could get a power switch remote control to make things convenient in the workshop.

I can understand it could be more dangerous with machines that move something other than air and the internal blower.

Thanks
 
Quite normal especially if the extractor is not in the workshop, if you use a remote (radio controlled switch) check it can handle the current necessary for the extractor including surge on start up. If your dust extractor has an NVR switch you can't just jam the on button on and some rewiring is necessary, usual caveats apply don't do it unless you are happy modifying mains wiring and can make safe modifications . If you do a search there are a few threads about this.
 
Had the same idea! i don't see why not and it would be so much more convenient - another idea was wiring up the blast gates to turn on the extractor when you open one.
 
I have done this to my 2hp Startrite extractor. Wired directly to the mains via a 2 pole 30A light-pull switch attached to paracord down the centre of the workshop. Voila! Remote switching for the extractor from anywhere.

38510418691_081119ef5a_c.jpg
 
Dont use the 13 amp wall socket switch to operate machinery. Its not made to take that load, its just an isolating switch.
Wall switch contacts arent made to take switching loads as the arc produced when disconnecting will burn the contacts quite quickly.

If you dont believe that, try watching the wall switch in the dark when you switch a running machine off.
 
That's how my extractor on the chopsaw works. It's a 110v chopsaw so the transformer and extractor are plugged into a multi adapter. Flick a switch for the multi adapter to get juice which turns the extractor on and powers up the transformer. No possibility of using the chopsaw without the extractor running then.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
sunnybob":c3udt3zo said:
Dont use the 13 amp wall socket switch to operate machinery. Its not made to take that load, its just an isolating switch.
Wall switch contacts arent made to take switching loads as the arc produced when disconnecting will burn the contacts quite quickly.

If you dont believe that, try watching the wall switch in the dark when you switch a running machine off.

Good point, but I think he wants to plug in a remotely controlled switch so the mains socket switch will remain in the on position.
 
I went down the route of using a remote controlled switch but was worried about the starting current so I use the r/c switch to operate a full duty contactor connected to the fan motor.
 
I do exactly what I think you are proposing using these

https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/remote-contr ... pack-n38hn

I have it set so one button controls an extractor dedicated to my planer and another button controls two extractors at the same time that are dedicated to my table saw, one to underneath and a vacuum type one to the crown guard.

Really speeds things up for me, being using them nearly a year and had no problems.

Doug
 
+1 to what Sunnybob said. The arc drawn across the contacts in mains sockets will quickly destroy them. That Maplins remote control switch will be no different. A proper NVR switch has snap-action contacts that limit the damage caused by the arc.

Yojevol":1u05ruyu said:
I went down the route of using a remote controlled switch but was worried about the starting current so I use the r/c switch to operate a full duty contactor connected to the fan motor.

This sounds like a good solution
 
When eliminating NVR, (wich his there to stop machine starting up on power return whilst hands etc. are enmeshed) it's a good idea to arange wiring so that machine has to be unplugged or otherwise disconnected to allow access for servicing, removing long shavings from impeller for instance. Mine are fitted with short lead and require unplugging to move and gain access.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Mine does have the nvr switch so I'm glad I read the advise about rerouting ghe wiring on it.

I was planning on having it outside but now I'll probably just have the exhaust and bag outside. It would still be nice to get it on a remote sometime though, I'll see how I get on.
 
I did not have to rewire my nvr switch. Just cable tied the cover down with a small bit of wood pushing in the on button. I then connected it to a remote socket. All works just fine. Single pole (screwfix/toolstation cheapy metal clads) socket switches really do give a nice flash. Double pole (MK and other better brands) tend not to give a flash.
 
cammy9r":2xvl08dl said:
I did not have to rewire my nvr switch. Just cable tied the cover down with a small bit of wood pushing in the on button. I then connected it to a remote socket. All works just fine. Single pole (screwfix/toolstation cheapy metal clads) socket switches really do give a nice flash. Double pole (MK and other better brands) tend not to give a flash.

Hi,
Tying down a normal NVR should not (IMO) cause any electrical damage to the switch , for my own preference I would rather not have a large stop button that looks like it works but doesn't, I accept that may just be me. Mechanically the springs in the on button may weaken over time always being compressed, only an issue if the switch is ever to reinstated. Any concerns over switch contacts could be mitigated be wiring an unswitched socket via a 20A or even a 45A double pole switch which would be my preference.
I was lucky with my own setup as my current extractor does not have an NVR so I was able to remote it to a suitable switch and unswitched socket.
 
Yes I can imagine a false Stop switch could be bad. But a dust extractor isn't exactly that dangerous compared to other things.
 
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