Hi. I am not familiar with the worktops supplied by Ikea, but if the top front edge, when in position, has no discernable radius I would be very suprised. This will show up as groove and dirt trap if a plain butt joint is used.
Mason's mitre? A number of people seem to be moving towards an inner corner to rear corner mitre these days. I can see why that would be, no jig required, quicker, possibly a better run of upper surface pattern around the corner and may be easier to accommodate a non-square corner.
Glueing the joint, I used to but quickly changed to a silicon type sealer when I had a last minute alteration to make, after the glue had gone off. Prepare both surfaces of the joint, if it is near the sink and chipboard seal the raw edges with varnish or similar, bring the joint together and add a bead of silicon sealer towards the top edge. This should be near enough, to the edge, to be continuos along the joint line, but give a little squeeze out. This can be trimmed when set/dry and gives a visual indication of the seal. This type of sealer can be found in many colours to match the surface of the worktop.
HTH, xy