Infill Mitre Plane Project

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Thanks Phil but no need for humility, based on the beautiful tools I received from Santa :)

By the way, I hope your leg is improved.
 
Hi rxh

Have you tried leaving in in acid?

All mine came from car boot sales, most wickedly sharp.

Pete
 
Pete,
No, I haven't tried acid but I'll give it a go. What sort of acid and what concentration do you use? Also, how long does it take?
 
I have some Muritic acid for brick cleaning but any acid (lemon juice, vinegar cilit bang) ) will do, the time depends on the strength of the acid and the bluntness of your file, its a bit suck it and see.
Just make sure your file is clean and degreased before you pop it in.

Pete
 
Racers":a0h07dsr said:
I have some Muritic acid for brick cleaning but any acid (lemon juice, vinegar cilit bang) ) will do, the time depends on the strength of the acid and the bluntness of your file, its a bit suck it and see.
Just make sure your file is clean and degreased before you pop it in.

Pete

Back in the dim and distant past...I recall someone else tell me this wrinkle....and I didn't try it at the time but I will now.

I have some really nice phosphoric acid just waiting to do some work...I'll post the results!

Jimi
 
Pedder suggested reviving his needle files in mild acid here

life-after-death-for-my-back-saw-t54710.html

To sharpen a needlefile I store them in a old prickels glas filled some cheap vinegar over the week. If they are not sharp enough the stay another week. I just dry them with paper and oil them with balistol to stop the corrsion.


He must have mentioned it again more recently as I wasn't around in 2011.
 
been busy elsewhere rx so slow coming to this. I know the workmanship will be exemplary (as I have one of the router planes from this stable / shed).
Nice combination of materials, I too like the padouk once it mellows although with the amount of work here I would maybe have gone for a level up - ebony, old rosewood if you could find it, Mr Ts mulberry maybe (I need to get hold of some mulberry to have a play with).
I shall follow with interest - I know it's going to be good, hats off!
 
Thanks Douglas,
I'll give some thought to alternative wood possibilities. Ebony is very pricey though ....

I have made a lot of the other metal parts, as can be seen in the photo below. The mouth adjustment mechanism works quite well. I'm thinking of putting an ACME thread on the lever cap screw (following Jimi's example) but I haven't located a supplier of ACME dies yet. Failing that, I'll make it 3/8" BSW.
 

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rxh":1ujf43hc said:
Thanks Douglas,
I'll give some thought to alternative wood possibilities. Ebony is very pricey though ....

I have made a lot of the other metal parts, as can be seen in the photo below. The mouth adjustment mechanism works quite well. I'm thinking of putting an ACME thread on the lever cap screw (following Jimi's example) but I haven't located a supplier of ACME dies yet. Failing that, I'll make it 3/8" BSW.

If you want ACME thread taps and dies you can get them from RDF TOOLS

That is looking absolutely fabulous!!!

=D> =D> =D>

Cheers

Jim
 
Time for an update on this job, which was on hold for several weeks because I was working away from home:
- I obtained an Acme die from RDG Tools (thanks for the tip, Jimi) and a corresponding tap from Tracy Tools but I haven't tried them yet.
- I made a rear infill from padauk but I wasn't satisfied with the fit in the plane and the pivot tube was not sufficiently central for my liking. So I have made a new one and will take more care over the fitting this time.
- I have made a blade from O1 steel but have not heat treated it yet.
- A start has been made on the wedge and the lever cap.
 

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Glad you sorted the bits for the Acme thread out mate but I'm a little confused as to why you didn't get them both from RDG Tools as I am concerned that if you have a die from one maker and the tap from another that they won't necessarily match. There seems to be a bit of variation in the specification you can buy because of differing tolerances and usage.

My suggestion is before you cut the real metal...do a test fit in hardwood or Corian (as I did) or some scrap metal. It would be an awful shame to make all the parts only to find they are too loose or tight.

Paduk...funny stuff that. It's very much like Cocobolo in that you start out with something which looks more at home in a jelly mould and then like magic, after a few weeks you have rosewood! I still find it hard to get used to and I have some Paduk in store so I think I will follow your lead when I (eventually) make my mitre plane.

The rest of the project is coming on in leaps and bounds, which considering your other projects is most admirable!

Look forward to the next installment.

=D>

Jim
 
Thanks Jim,
Strangely, RDG didn't offer a 3/8" x 10 TPI tap and Tracy didn't offer a die in that size, hence the two suppliers chosen. Yes, I'll certainly try cutting threads in some scrap first :)
 
I've done some more work on this plane, after being distracted by other jobs for a while:
- wedge made and inlaid with brass wear strip,
- cut acme thread in lever cap bolt,
- made lever cap,
- made expanding pin for attaching lever cap.
 

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Was that lever cap made by hand ? If so well done =D>
I've been watching this topic and really looking forward to seeing this completed, looks like it's going to be a beauty.
 
Yes, the lever cap was all done by hand, thanks (apart from drilling the holes). I cut off as much waste as possible by hacksaw and then set to work with files and then abrasive paper.
 
Nice one mate...I particularly love the lever cap...and knob...stunning stuff.

I was thinking about the wear strip for when I get around to starting my mitre and I have to say I particularly like the recent trend (old trend!) for using a full block peined into sole or tabs in the side...that is an interesting concept and aids in bed firmness.

Lovely seeing this starting up again mate...great stuff!

Jimi
 
Thanks Jimi.

I finished the plane today, gave it a trial on some end grain beech and mahogany and was quite pleased. Here are some photos of the finished article. It consists of 44 component parts and weighs about 5.5 lb (2.5 kg).
 

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Very well done =D> =D> =D>

Thanks again for sharing/inspiring.

Only one minor criticism, stunning lever cap looks naked without your initials/name.
 
Sir I salute you =D>
That is a stunning piece of craftsmanship.
I can't be the only one here thinking that some of these "home made" ( I use that with the utmost respect ) tools should be put into production.
I would buy some of them to go on my book shelf.
Excellent.
 

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