If you're exhausting air from your DE outside...

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
My simplistic appraisal of handling dust: When in doubt, Vent Out.

Replacement heating may be an expense the balance sheet could do without, but it's a darn sight more cost effective than trying to get replacement lungs and you can buy a fair amount of heating for the cost of anything nearing an efficient heat exchanger system at normal shop extraction volume rates.
 
Harold Pomeroy":32usf81h said:
The one problem I have with this system is that the shop is low pressure, and I can't run a wood heater in the shop. The smoke gets pulled down the chimney. The gas furnace has to be sealed combustion.
That's a good point; this effect of venting to the outside should be taken into consideration when heating a workshop with a fuel burning heater.

The volume of air exhausted is likely to be much greater than for household ventilation, so using a fuel burning appliance intended for use in a home may cause problems if your workshop exhausts air outside..
 
Sportique":1wbxbdcf said:
Just thinking outside the box (sic).

How about using infra-red heaters? I think I am correct in saying that such heaters do not heat the air? - only living flesh :lol:

If they only heated iving flesh it would be a form of microwave heater :roll:

But yes they don't heat the air, they heat objects. The warm objects then heat the air.
They also work quite quickly (but not cheap to run)

Dave
 
Been following this with some interest. I'm a bit of a simpleton when it comes to the nuances of extraction and the like, I always wear a mask and if it gets too dusty I open the workshop door and go into the house for a brew.

If I'm undesrstanding the OP's OP correctly the question is how to recover heat lost through the extractor when its vented externally...............why bother to recover it..........why not run the exhausted air through a longer run of metal pipe and directly heat instead. i'm sure that a bit of constructive googling would throw up someone making a pipe with veins/fins on for improved dissipation. I run a pair of camvacs in the shop, they both exhaust internally - probably not good I know but thats what they do for the minute, the heat from the exhausts is significant, more than enough to heat a length of stainless flue pipe.

Just a simpletons view (possibly a question too).

I'll get my coat

Vinny
 
I like your thinking Vinny, seems like a simple solution. It looks like there are two main ways of doing things if/ when exhausting air outside (only on a very simplistic level), either you lose a lot of heat and have to compensate with extra energy put into heating, or you put in some kind of heat recovery system/ way of not losing heat in the first place. Your way seems a compromise between the two. Heat exchange/ recovery seems to me to be either expensive or you have to get it perfectly right. Although on the little bit of skimming over websites that I've done I've not found a definitive answer. Your way Vinny seems very low tech, this I like. In my mind it makes sense to really simplify things as I'm not a very technical person myself. I don't think it would solve the whole issue, there would have to be some supplementary heating done, but I think it would definitely help.

If and when I start making big bucks I will put in the 'whole shebang' of a decent heat exchange system and over the top DE system with extremely good filters. But until then I will make the few changes that I can without spending the earth.

Infra-red heaters are also worth a look in IMHO. At the moment I still have to vent inside and rely on the filters being good enough because I don't have the money to knock a hole in the wall and get all the relevant ducting sorted. Shouldn't be long now though.

Cheers_Dan. :)
 
Back
Top