Timberfreak
Established Member
powertools":247x1uri said:
. . . and I carried out that 4WD conversion with my Stacked Dado Head !!!
I know I've been very naughty . . . BUT ~
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. . . and I carried out that 4WD conversion with my Stacked Dado Head !!!
Timberfreak
Established Member
Grayorm":b1qvv4n2 said:
Yes ~ that was the reason I finally imagined that a stack of blades would fit on the arbor. It seemed to me that the extra thickness of the inner flange occupied the space that could be occupied by a few extra blades/chippers if that space was saved by the use of a thinner flange.
It also occured to me that the extra weight of a stack would be brought closer rather than being placed further away from the bearing point of the arbor as it leaves the motor housing and I guess that this would help to minimise the extra initertial forces that would be exerted on the arbor/bearing.
## I've noted all of the comments and suggestions that have already been posted on this thread, and carrying out regular checks on the nut's tightness seems very sensible and practical as does the possibility of using a lock nut.
Oh . . . and one of my own "best tips" for safety is the concentration of, and the attention to safety proceedures given by the nut whose hands are on the controls of all those 'whirly' woodworking machines.
Timberfreak
Established Member
The Bear":10wnu5xs said:
Mark ~ the dado set IS 8 inches and the saw's normal blade is 260mm (just over 10 inches).
The problem is that when the stack of dado blades and chippers are mounted on the arbor they move TOWARDS the motor casing, and on the side of that casing there are a couple of protrusions in the casting which prevent the stack from lowering any more than the amount of about 15/16" that I mentioned in the video.
That was a problem that I didn't foresee when I first realised that it looked possible to get an SDH in there . . . and by the time it became evident the only solution I could come up with was the auxiliary table top. It works fine, in fact it adds a bit more weight and stability to the table and its' surface is at least, if not more so, as slick as the table's own top.
I've routed a groove for a mitre gauge, and as it wasn't possible to use the original dedicated rip fence, it didn't take much to knock up another one that would work. It simply needs clamped to the table, and it can even be screwed down onto the MDF . . . something I can't do with the original metal top !!!
Timberfreak
Established Member
Jake":3ermgnsy said:
Hi Jake - you've had me go over my previous postings trying to find where I put forward the notion that I'm brave or smart . . . You might like to help me out with that ?
monkeybiter
Established Member
My only issue with the contents of the video is the workholding of the small piece of oak. It is too small to safely hold that way. Like most users I've made daft mistakes and know first hand that what happens is so quick that you don't know what you've done wrong until it's happened. As Jacob repeatedly says; two push sticks would be so much safer.
Re. another comment about blade debris falling into the machine rather than out, don't count on it. I've shot carbide tips at the ceiling as a result of one error.
Re. another comment about blade debris falling into the machine rather than out, don't count on it. I've shot carbide tips at the ceiling as a result of one error.
misterfish
Established Member
Dodge":18nyn8hk said:
Not all dado sets are 30mm bore. My wadkin TS (which is designed to take dado sets and moulding heads has a 20mm arbor. And my DW1251 RAS as standard uses a 30mm bore 'standard' blade, but it is designed to also use a 16mm (5/8 inch) bore dado set.
As others have said using a stacked dado set is quick to cut but it can be slow to set up with a lot of faffing about shimming to get it right.
Misterfish
Timberfreak
Established Member
monkeybiter":1llpjl54 said:
Point well taken about the size of the small Oak workpiece ~ as also pointed out by a previous poster and to which I replied that my normal practice isn't to use such small pieces. When, for the video, I wanted to show a couple of cuts, I wanted to use hardwood because I felt that if I had used softwood there may well have been someone coming on here and asking something like "but how well can it handle hardwood?"
I didn't have any larger pieces of Oak that I was keen to waste, but in hindsight I should have used that leftover piece of Maple flooring longwise along the rip fence instead of that small piece.
It may appear to some that I'm not safety conscious -- that's just not the case at all. I've been at this for over 30 years as a hobbyist/DIYer and have learned how to respect all of the tools/machinery I have acquired over that time . . . and yes -- there have been a few mistakes made along the way and I've sustained a few knocks, cuts and the usual mishaps as well and have learned by experience a whole lot of stuff. No, I don't "know it all" ~ I know I never will, and neither do I have the attitude "it'll never happen to me" and the thing I always try to switch on before I even open the shed is 100% concentration for the preservation of my own safety and well-being.
monkeybiter
Established Member
Like you I can't part with small offcuts, even pine :roll: but at least I'm weaning myself off rotten lumps with headless screws in :lol:
Similar to the sentiments of another poster I think if you're lucky enough to survive your early mistakes you become more careful knowing just how quickly and easily very bad things can happen.
Similar to the sentiments of another poster I think if you're lucky enough to survive your early mistakes you become more careful knowing just how quickly and easily very bad things can happen.
Togalosh
Established Member
Tom K":17o1li9x said:
It was obtained along with a bruise on my chest when a small off cut kicked back off my low lying table saw that had had the rifing knife removed for cutting dadoes & not refitted... I've only just got all the sensation back in that part of my forehead some 4+ years later. I was cut to the skull & the piece hit my chest afterwards leaving the bruise. I was very lucky..yes & stoopid.
..if I thought there was a chance that even a tiny piece of shattered saw blade could be coming my way at the same speed & force as that small off cut then I'd give it a miss ..or dress like Ned Kelly...but what's the chances of that happening?
Togalosh":37vrawl4 said:
Just a kick back then nothing to do with dado heads. Of course a shattered blade or flying carbide tip would be an excuse for brown trousers but isn't relevant to the subject under discussion other than the fact that there are a few more teeth doing the rounds.
AndyC Longwood
Established Member
Timber freak,
Well done on the video, can I ask which dado cutter you went for?
Andy
Well done on the video, can I ask which dado cutter you went for?
Andy
Timberfreak
Established Member
AndyC Longwood":1q68o7ow said:
Andy ~ I can't tell you which manufacturer the dado set is because there doesn't appear to be a maker's name anywhere.
You can find it somewhere here in this website where there is a clickable photo of it which zooms up to a huge size. (You'll find it under "Accessories")
About the only other place I could seem to source them was on ebay, and most of these were from the U.S. Their prices looked O.K. but most of them carried a shipping charge that was well in excess of the purchase price, and the thought of having import duty hassle plus the lengthy delivery time combined to put me past ordering from abroad.
The one I got was about the only one I could source from a U.K. based supplier, and even then, I suspect it was manufactured in the U.S.A.
AndyC Longwood
Established Member
Timber Freak,
Sorry for the late reply, thank you for the information I have done a bit more surfing and believe Freud Tooling sell a set just trying to find a local supplier and the time to visit. How are you getting on with your set?
Thanks again for the info and sorry for not getting back to you sooner.
Andrew.
Sorry for the late reply, thank you for the information I have done a bit more surfing and believe Freud Tooling sell a set just trying to find a local supplier and the time to visit. How are you getting on with your set?
Thanks again for the info and sorry for not getting back to you sooner.
Andrew.
i believe that Freud Tooling is no no more. I understand that they have been bought out by Bosch. I dont know whether some or all of the products have been transferred across, presumably some/most will have or they wouldnt have wanted the business, unless it was for the R&D and to transfer the processes into the Bosch blades.
I may be wrong, that is what my local stockist told me.
I may be wrong, that is what my local stockist told me.
Bluekingfisher
Established Member
Go for it mate, I too am a big fan of the stacked dado - Don't listen to all the weary willies - enjoy
Timberfreak
Established Member
AndyC Longwood":cxzen3of said:
Hi Andrew,
A few years back it was actually possible to buy-over-the-counter the Freud stacked dado from Machine Mart. It had a 5/8" centre and it wouldn't have fitted my saw at that time on 2 counts :- it was the wrong arbor size, and my saw at that time definitely had no spare room on the spindle for anything more than the saw blade.
You asked how I'm getting on with it . . . after reading the numerous posts on this thread it seemed evident to me that the main concern was with the electric/electronic braking possibly causing the arbor nut slackening off. I took particular note of that and as the dado has done considerable work over the past few weeks I have made regular checks on the tightness of the nut and have not had to make any adjustments. The regular saw blade is back in position right now, but when I use the stacked dado in future I'll continue to monitor the tightness of the nut. In any case, it has done some superb work and the set-up time (of around 4 - 5 minutes) isn't an issue for me at least.
(Maybe because I'm now retired ! )
Steve Maskery
Established Member
I'm afraid I am in the camp which thinks that this is irresponsible and I am not intrinsically anti-stacked dado.
There is no excuse for using an unguarded blade, it can always be guarded, one way or another. And that demo of the microscopic block of wood is plain.... It would have taken only the tiniest movement of the block, or the blades to contact something hard in it, for it to have been flung into the face of the user. This is definitely NOT the way to use a stacked dado.
It doesn't give me any pleasure to speak like this, but the danger is that someone less experienced will copy this practice and not be so lucky.
I know the user says he is aware and experienced and all that stuff. Read the testimonials on the SawStop site. Many of these guys who lost fingers were experienced. They were aware. They knew just what they were doing and believed it would never happen to them
And yet it did.
Please do not copy this practice, it's not a sensible thing to do, even if the groove itself is excellent. And using fingers "like a featherboard" - sheesh!
Steve
There is no excuse for using an unguarded blade, it can always be guarded, one way or another. And that demo of the microscopic block of wood is plain.... It would have taken only the tiniest movement of the block, or the blades to contact something hard in it, for it to have been flung into the face of the user. This is definitely NOT the way to use a stacked dado.
It doesn't give me any pleasure to speak like this, but the danger is that someone less experienced will copy this practice and not be so lucky.
I know the user says he is aware and experienced and all that stuff. Read the testimonials on the SawStop site. Many of these guys who lost fingers were experienced. They were aware. They knew just what they were doing and believed it would never happen to them
And yet it did.
Please do not copy this practice, it's not a sensible thing to do, even if the groove itself is excellent. And using fingers "like a featherboard" - sheesh!
Steve
