How would you join this?

[Bodone]

Hello all,

building base for a cabin to sit on. I’ll be laminating 2x4’s, but wondering best way to ‘butt’ joint at the corners? Picture below from tinterweb where I’m guessing they’ve nailed through.

The base will be sat flat on a series of paving stones.

Thanks for help.

 

[Seascaper]

Hello
I have done a similar construct using half lap joints and galvanised metal plates, both straight flat sections and 90 degree sections, these are nailed with galvanised nails.
Regards

 

[Bingy man]

Agree with galvanised heavy duty angle plates but can be expensive-a cheaper option would be some reclaimed galvanised angle Iron cut into shorter sections to suit your build- you would have to pre drill them and use galvanised or stainless steel coach bolts. Treat any cut steel ends with red oxide paint or similar or paint the entire brackets for extra life .

 

[Bingy man]

Agree with galvanised heavy duty angle plates but can be expensive-a cheaper option would be some reclaimed galvanised angle Iron cut into shorter sections to suit your build- you would have to pre drill them and use galvanised or stainless steel coach bolts. Treat any cut steel ends with red oxide paint or similar or paint the entire brackets for extra life .

Just noticed in your picture there is end grain timber sitting directly on the slabs -not imo a good idea

 

[Bodone]

Just noticed in your picture there is end grain timber sitting directly on the slabs -not imo a good idea be treating any end grain

I’d be treating any end grain. Plates makes sense, ill be using joist hangars so I’ll add them to the shopping list.

Thank you.

 

[Seascaper]

Hello,
These brackets to use are heavy duty and are 99p each...
https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-heavy-duty-angle-brackets-galvanised-60-x-50mm-10-pack/61576Regards

 

[clogs]

double up on the joists...that picky of a base will have a wobbly floor....
if u can/afford and depending on flooring type 18" is max spacing for the joists....
also use blocking beams between joist for added strength...
1 blocker per meter of joist length....of course off-set slightly for fixings....
lastly for a truly great floor use NO nails or similar between the joist n the plywood floor which should be no thinner than 3/4"...
that way no squeaks and a stronger floor....screw it down every 10" or so.....
I use the gold type screws from the likes of Screwfix...extra strong and self easy start....
double up on the supports for the long sides and at least an extra 1 for the short sides...
a pain in the Axxe u might think but not in 5 years time when it all starts to sag n move....
nothing worse than a saggy bottom....hahaha....

 

[Bodone]

All very helpful, thank you.

 

[Fanous]

If you are interested in joinery based solution, I would take inspiration in Japanese timber frame houses, plenty to see on youtube. They have been doing things like this for centuries, and they are still doing it today. No need to reinvent the wheel, so to speak.

 

[SamG340]

For me I'd make it with butt joints and nails / screws just like a stud wall frame laid flat

Maybe not the perfect way , or even the proper way lol, but it would do just fine. Keep it simple

 

[TRITON]

I would take inspiration in Japanese timber frame houses, plenty to see on youtube.

Just an 8 year apprenticeship to get those techniques down to spec

 

[Fanous]

Just an 8 year apprenticeship to get those techniques down to spec

Haha, yeah. It does not have to be as precise as they make it, but the principles of joinery will be solid.

 

[Fitzroy]

Use nails not screws. Cheaper, quicker and in theory less likely to snap so preferred in structural applications.

 

[TRITON]

Use nails not screws. Cheaper, quicker and in theory less likely to snap so preferred in structural applications.

And dont forget to kink* the nails as you drive them in.

*This is done by hammering them 1/2 way in, then hitting them so they bend a bit, then driving them home.
What this does is helps prevent them from sliding back out. They go in in a hooked shape.

 

[thetyreman]

some kind of dovetail on the corners will be good, it's a very strong joint, it's worth reading 'the complete japanese joinery' if you're serious, it might be worth looking into some finnish joinery techniques as well with loghouse building, this might inspire you around 33 seconds in, that joint looks good.

 

[Stevekane]

Have a look at Decking scews, I bought a box of around 50 very cheaply, they have a really vicious threadform and a 10mm bolt/washer head, some sort of rustproof finish too, mine were around 150mm long and with an 8 or 10mm thickness. They are only partly threaded and would screw into those corners at a bit of an angle very snuggly and I used them to “pockethole” bits similar to your crossbeams.
Steve